Schrick VGI FAQ, strip down pics & parts info

[Joe M 0]

PhatVR6, are you still able to get schrick gasket sets? If so how much?

[Chris VR6nos 0]

On the topic of ceramic coatings,

All my inlet pipes have been ceramic coated on the inside and the outside, I'm not sure of the advantage here but to say that they get so hot that you can't touch them, or at least the one from the vortech charger to the throttle body!

I've no idea about the power or bhp of my vr but for £1800 the kit way out performes the tuned manifold option whichever you go with and that's without a r/road map although i'm sure that with this smaller pulley(thanks Guy) and a couple of other bits that the power will be on or over 300bhp with great driveability, then of course there's the nitrous, i've never been stunned by the VSR or VGI especially for the price and remap faff, it just doesn't make all that much sense apart from that they look good and more so when polished.

 

 

Chris

[trebor 0]

I kind of agree that the schrick manifold is not good value for money when comparing bhp+torque gains with the out lay of cash..However the manifold works really well.. It does not put undew strain on the engine like other mods (turbo, super)...To be honest such modification as these two are waiting to let GO GO go g..o....o....

[Chris VR6nos 0]

Trebor,

Do you mean a turbo or charger will make your engine let go?

Just to offer feedback, mine's been chrged for a couple of years now and i've done 160+ a number of times and raced around like no ones business and all i did was change a head garket but not because it had gone but as maintenance and to inspect the bores which were like mirrors with no lip or scores so i think correctly setup these mods offer more torque and power lower down the rev range and as we know, the majority of wear if impacted at hi revs so i'd say if you want to go fast, get a charger/turbo/nitrous and maintain your car and it won't let go any more that a std C.

 

Chris

[vdubjb 0]

Vortex thread with dynos of thermal emissive abv vs. Schrick manifolds.

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=980988

 

pics may no longer be hosted though.

[Supercharged 2]

Here is the Dr SHRICK catalog (Adobe Reader needed)

[fj 0]

I know all Corrados are OBD1, but Schricks can be OBD1 or OBD2. Is there any way to tell whether the manifold is OBD1 or OBD2 just by looking at it? It's not fitted to a car, so I can't tell from that. Is it just the controller that's different or is the casting different?

 

Thanks

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The Schricks and controllers are identical. What differs between OBD1 and 2 versions is the throttle elbow at the end which the throttle body bolts too. The OBD2 one won't have an Idle valve outlet and will be a slightly different shape.

[vdubjb 0]

http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/schrick-stock-eip.pdf

[fj 0]

Excellent - thanks for the quick replies. :D

 

So, this is OBD1, right?

 

Cheers.

[RS VR6 0]

I can't tell in the picture, but the OBD 2 TB has different mounting holes. A easy way to tell is to hold your TB up to the Schrick part and see if the holes line up.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yep that's OBD1, but the ISV outlet is missing.

[fla 9]

Any pics available for this old thread by any chance?

[fla 9]

Other useful info:-

 

Try and source an early rubber inlet hose (92-93 model year) part no - HG0 1H0 129 627E for cars with the later rigid inlet hose. The rigid hose gets stretched too much as it has little 'give', meaning the airbox tilts up. The rubber hose is way better and more durable.

 

Want a neater hose on the flap actuator?

 

Get a 90 degree bend pipe from a MK3 Golf. Part number 893955665 82p+VAT.

The hose won't rub on the bonnet and looks a lot neater.

 

How do I wire up the Schrick?

 

Schrick Red wire to ECU red/blue wire - Pin 23. It's the biggest wire on the plug, so hard to miss.

Schrick Blue wire to ECU Black/green wire - Pin 22.

Schrick Black wire to ground. There is a hidden bolt (plastic cap on it) near the leaf guard, use that.

Schrick white wires to vac solenoid.

 

Vacuum connections.

 

Large vac pot inlet to Servo hose outlet. There are 2 green caps on the servo hose above the gearbox. Pull one off and use that as your vacuum source.

Small vac pot inlet to Vacuum solenoid (lower, input)

Manifold actuator to vacuum solenoid (upper, output)

 

When the manifold upper half is nipped up, check the flap is free moving with a screwdriver, by rotating the cam from above. If it binds, you will need to slacken off the bearings. If it's too loose, they'll need tightening up. Speak to Vince at Stealth about this as there have been quite a few like this, mine included!

 

You can also check the flap is moving OK with the engine running. Get a length of spare hose to reach from the servo hose outlets to the flap. Disconnect the original vac outlet hose and connect your free length to it. Now start the car, it will run a bit rough due to the intentional servo leak, and put the hose onto the flap actuator. It should lift up immediately, if not, it's binding.

 

K

 

Well the rubber elbow is now £4.21+ VAT!!! Any suggested sensible sources?

 

Also, just to confirm, is there only one connection from the solenoid to the vacuum line from the brake servo (ie you only use one of the green-capped points on the servo line)?

[gazvr6 10]

Well the rubber elbow is now £4.21+ VAT!!! Any suggested sensible sources?

 

Also, just to confirm, is there only one connection from the solenoid to the vacuum line from the brake servo (ie you only use one of the green-capped points on the servo line)?

 

Yes mate just one vac line

 

 

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