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C. Will Corrado G60 2

Pinking (Sorry I know it's an old topic)

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Hi,

 

I know you guys on here are full of knowledge about this one and I have read the posts on this topic but mine G60 is still pinking :(

 

Here's the situation/set-up.

 

Had a conversion from a standard G60 engine to a Rallye G60 with stage 4 charger and custom front mounted intercooler. The engine sounds good and strong apart from pinking at around 2K. It doesn't seem to pink under load.

 

Went to G-Werk about month ago-ish and had a green SNS chip plus timing check and corrected. They noticed the knock sensor was looking a little worn, so recommend I change it. The engine felt better after this but still pinking, I hoped the chip may have sorted this out.

 

The next step was to replace the worn knock sensor, no difference to the pinking, DAM!! :? :?

 

I've checked the fuel pressure and its fine tried increasing the pressure to see if this would help. No it didn’t running at 3.7bar. :mad:

 

So where do I go next should I try colder spark plugs???? Can anyone please help as it's driving me mad. :mad: :mad:

 

Cheers

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Have you tried retarding the timing? Try backing it off a bit at a time until the pinking goes. See how you go. The warm weather will make pinking occur easier too.

 

Gavin

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What is the G60 knock sensor *for* if it doesn't retard the timing accordingly? Or does it throw in more fuel to try and compensate a little?

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As Daz says, the torque that the knock sensor it tightened to is CRITICAL to the correct opperation of the knock sensor.... Too tight, and it'll always detect knocks even when it's not knocking, too loose and it'll never detect 'em... :|

 

Also, it's worth checking the wire FROM the multiplug that the knock sensor plugs into (not the one that is part of the knock sensor, the one it plugs into! ;) ) as I've noticed a couple of these recently where the insulation and general condition is pretty poor, which would not help the knock sensor work at all... :|

 

dr_mat, the ECU on a G60 can only retard the ignition a certain amount... if you are running with the ignition advanced so far that the ECU is ALWAYS draggin the timing back, it's VERY easy to over-run that amount and end up with pinking...

C. Will Corrado G60 2, Make sure that you have the timing set to around 6deg BTDC on 1 with the blue temp sensor disconnected... the muppet who did my timing for me just after I built my engine didn't disconnect the sensor and the timing was WAY out! :roll: :evil:

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g-man, The knock sensor is the green sensor type and was just tighten into place manual I did hear a small click into place. Could it be damage? If so have can I tell?

 

Henny, The timing was done by g-man, when I saw him last and haven't changed it. The timing is correct by him. When pulling out the blue sensor while idling the engine slows and struggles.

 

What I want to do is create a all time list of what to check when pinking occurs.

 

Here's the list so far, Please add or amend thanks

 

1) Check Knock Sensor for damage.

a) Replace Knock sensor and tighten to 15Lb/ft IIRC.

 

2) Check wire from multiplug which the Knock sensor plugs into.

 

3) Make sure that you have the timing set to around 6deg BTDC on 1 with the blue temp sensor disconnected... (Can anyone please confirm this. I'm also aware this maybe different to what your setup is, am I correct?).

 

4) Check Fuel Pressure.

a) standard 3.0 bar (mine is adjustable and is set to 3.7 bar with stage 4 charger etc).

 

5) Check Blue switch is not damage and working correctly.

 

6) Change Fuel Filter.

 

I know their must be more things to add, please help build a definitive list.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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Hi mate

 

you said you have an adjustable fpr. What is the make and model of this, as some of the adjustable ones do not fuel properly on the instant of full throttle (take longer to increase the pressure).

 

If all components are working well ie knock sensor then try retarding ignition timing via the dizzy.

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Not sure what the FPR is as it can on the Rallye G60 engine when I brought it. I wasn't sure if it was adjustable but after looking at it I could change the pressure easily by turn the top nut.

 

Cheers

 

The timng was set by Darren @ G-werk I would of thought it was right. I don't really want to knock the timng out by playing around with it.

 

Can you think of anything else it may be?

 

Cheers

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Is the crank pulley woodruf key worn? I know someone whos car had this problem. Basically the crank pulley bolt comes loose and the woodruf key and slot gradually gets worn through the loading/unloading. It was showing correct timing on the flywheel, but where the crank pulely and woodruf key were so worn it was actually 11 degrees out. Worth checking as it can just let go, then there is serious damage! :shock:

 

J

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if i was you i would put a standard fpr back onto your car.. there is absoultly no need to run 3.7bar on your set up

 

you timing if not touched is set fine.. i you want why not pop down and we can put the car on the wideband for you.

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G60Renshaw, I'll add to list and I'll check out crank pulley bolt etc thanks

 

g-man, I can adjust it back to 3.5 bar easily so I can't see the point in putting a standard on as I'll be modding the engine more in the future. I'd love to pop down but it's a 200 mile round trip.

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Pinking list update:

 

Here's the list so far, Please add or amend thanks

 

1) Check Knock Sensor for damage.

a) Replace Knock sensor and tighten to 15Lb/ft IIRC.

 

2) Check wire from multiplug which the Knock sensor plugs into.

 

3) Make sure that you have the timing set to around 6deg BTDC on 1 with the blue temp sensor disconnected... (Can anyone please confirm this. I'm also aware this maybe different to what your setup is, am I correct?).

 

4) Check Fuel Pressure.

a) standard 3.0 bar (mine is adjustable and is set to 3.7 bar with stage 4 charger etc).

 

5) Check Blue switch is not damage and working correctly.

 

6) Change Fuel Filter.

 

7) Is the crank pulley woodruf key worn?

a) The crank pulley bolt comes loose and the woodruf key and slot gradually gets worn through the loading/unloading. It was showing correct timing on the flywheel, but where the crank pulely and woodruf key were so worn it was actually 11 degrees out. Worth checking as it can just let go, then there is serious damage!

 

 

Any more?

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G60Renshaw, I'll add to list and I'll check out crank pulley bolt etc thanks

 

g-man, I can adjust it back to 3.5 bar easily so I can't see the point in putting a standard on as I'll be modding the engine more in the future. I'd love to pop down but it's a 200 mile round trip.

 

 

You shouldn't go higher than 3.5bar on the standard fuel pumps anyway because they will be pushed beyond their limits. You should try putting a 3.5bar Bosch regulator on the car. If this doesnt cure the prob then get your timing checked, may have moved.

 

Also, try removing the oil vapour breather from the return boost tube, some cars throw a lot of vapour through the system which can cause pinking due to octane dilution.

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if u have a fse on there these are wrong for the g60 engines... they are fine on nA stuff but they do not work well with forced induction engines .. we have done alot of testing with these and i would very much recomend you put a std 3.0bar reg back on the car...

 

anyway 200mile round trip :lol: thats just a nice drive for a corrado aint it ? :lol:

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Dubcharged, g-man,

 

Ok I'm going to check out the FPR a little more and see if I can put a standard one back. What would be the best a 3.0 or 3.5 bar taking my mods in to consideration and the make.

 

Guys thanks for all your help with this it's been very much appreciated. :D

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maybe not, as mentioned, some of the adjustable fpr's do not respond as well as the original bosch ones. Best thing to do is get a 3.5bar bosch fpr.

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Hi guys.

Many times timing in g60 engines is different betwen flywheel and crank pulley.Sometimes when you set up the timing from the flywheel you are running advanced! I am sure that if you set up your timing again but from the crank pulley and not from the flywheel you'll get the right set up.

 

eg. flywheel shows 6 deg. btdc

crank pulley shows 14deg btdc

 

In other words you have 14deg but you think that you have 6deg.

 

Check it out.

 

Greetings from Athens

 

Cheers

 

ps.Forget the fpr.I would reccomend you to use Bosch fpr but this is not a fuel delivery problem.

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