VR6 Cutting Out

[MikeVR6 0]

Brought the VR6 out of hibernation at the weekend. Battery was completely flat after sitting for 6 weeks so a jump start was needed. Took her for a 40 mile run to charge the battery and shake the cobwebs out.

Had her out again last night, started on the button. 20 mile drive, no probs.

This morning on the way to work she drops below 500rpm and cuts out every time I take my foot off the gas. If I try to start her with no gas she just turns over. A little pedal and she starts but cuts out again as soon as I ease off. Unfortunately I can't find my OBD cable at the moment to run a scan. What should I check?

[joebloggsVR69 0]

Mine was cutting stalling at junctions, similar to yours.

It had been garaged for about 6 months, and this was the first time it was doing it.

 

I noticed that when sitting at idle, if I had the aircon on and blipped the throttle, the car would dip below 500rpm and stall every time. Maybe too much load on the engine?

When the aircon was off, it would still occasionally stall but not as often.

 

I hooked up VCDS and saw this error:

00533 - Idle speed regulation

10-10 - adaptation limit not reached - intermittent

 

Anyway, after reading on here, decided to eliminate the simple things first.

I took apart the intake hoses and gave them a clean, checked the MAF (which was ok) and cleaned out the ISV in carb cleaner over night.

 

Put it all back together and hasn't stalled since.

Don't know if it was the ISV, or just one of the intake hoses might not have been tight enough.

[MikeVR6 0]

Thanks I'll take a look at those. The engine is still being run in after rebuild, so I think the ISV and thottle body are clean. Possibly a hose has worked itself lose. I'll take a look this evening.

Are you using the full VCDS? I've just a generic Bluetooth dongle and the registered version of Torque on my Samsung Galaxy Tab 2.

[joebloggsVR69 0]

No, I've just got the basic version of VCDS, but it still helps to list any errors

[fla 9]

check the throttle dashpot is controlling the throttle to a nice soft close. Also, the ISV might just need some lube, even though its clean. A light mineral oil should be ok, no need to drench it.

[MikeVR6 0]

Is it possible to do a Throttle Body Alignment with the Lite version of VCDS?

Going to check the car now. Hopefully it's something obvious as soon as I open the bonnet.

[MikeVR6 0]

Replaced the ISV today with a freshly cleaned one from a breaker. No improvement.

[MikeVR6 0]

I have a MAF! I didn't see it in the engine bay. It has been relocated under the bumper where the intake is for the supercharger. Tricky to get at but I managed to get the connector off and gave it a clean with brake cleaner this morning. The car ran normally almost all the way to work for the first time in 2 weeks. Idling at 650rpm or thereabouts. But just as I arrived at work it started acting up again. So definitely the MAF is the culprit. I'll try and get it off tonight for a proper clean. I also have a spare MAF I can swap over. I'll post back here the results.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Superchargers always have problems with mafs so ive heard...

[MikeVR6 0]

Yeah so I see :(

[fla 9]

look forward to your updates - i'm sure they'll help others too.

[kevinbowe2000 10]

Will hopefully help me. Got the same issue right now. Checked for any broken pipes once, cleaned isv twice, maf three times and doing the throttle body tomorrow. Hopefully that will solve it.

[MikeVR6 0]

Yup it was the MAF. Swapped it for a spare one and went for a drive around town without a hitch. I'll keep the old one as a spare after I've given it a going over with contact cleaner.

Mine's the later "hot film" type. Here's some info I found on the earlier "hot wire" model..

*** Air Mass Sensor (G70) ***

A hot-wire air mass sensor is used to measure the airflow into the

engine. The air mass sensor is attached to the air filter housing.

The sensor housing includes a baffle grid which reduces air turbulence

and pulses. The sensor has no moving parts.

A thin, electrically-heated , platinum hot-wire in the sensor is kept

180°C (356°F) above the air temperature measured by the thin-layer

platinum temperature sensor.

As airflow increases, the wires are cooled and the resistance of the

sensors changes. Current to the platinum hot-wire changes to maintain

the constant temperature difference.

The resulting current change is converted to a voltage signal and is

used by the Motronic ECU to calculate the volume of air taken in.

Dirt or other contamination on the platinum wire can cause inaccurate

output signals. Because of this, the platinum wire is heated to 1000° C

(1832° F) for a period of one second each time the engine is switched

off to burn off this dirt or contamination.

If a fault develops with the signal from the air mass sensor, the signal

from the throttle potentiometer is used as a substitute in order for

the car to remain derivable.

A recommended way of cleaning...

How do I clean out my mass air flow sensor?

Take the large Ziploc bag and place the MAF sensor in it.

Pour enough Isopropyl alcohol into the bag to completely cover the MAF sensor. Gently shake the bag to allow the alcohol to pass through the sensor. Take the MAF sensor out and let the excess alcohol drip off. Set the MAF sensor down on a paper towel to drip/air dry. You may want to use the compressed air spray to blow dry parts such as the connector port. Allow the MAF sensor to dry completely before reinstalling it in the car. This will take between 1-12 hours. Reinstall.

 

I also found part numbers for early and late styles on here. I'll try and find them and post the link.

[MikeVR6 0]

Symptoms returned this morning. Bloody thing!

My VAGCOM cable has arrived though. So I can VCDS-Lite it during tea break and post the codes.

[MikeVR6 0]

Bosch Part No's for the MAFs are:-

Early - Hot Wire

0280 213 021

VW Part # : 021906461

 

Late - Hot Film

0280 217 504

VW Part # : 021906462

 

Taken from this thread

These are the entire MAF body and sensor

Edited April 24, 2014 by MikeVR6

[Jon_vr6 1]

Ill be replacing my maf at the weekend with a brand new bosch one, now and then if i come off the gas and go to press again it hesitates for a second then pulls as normal. No set rev range or speed it just happens.

Vagcom came up with mixture not reached or something emailed vince and he said check for air leaks which ive done and if its not that its maf or fuel pump (fuel pump changed last year,so not that)

Interesting to see what your vagcom throws up

[MikeVR6 0]

Interesting you should say that. I had my fuel pump replaced last year at the same time the Charger was fitted. I used a pattern part as a VW original was £££. Since then I've always wanted to blame that fuel pump for everything that goes wrong with the running of the car because I know it's not genuine. Maybe I should go for a uprated pump. I'll speak with Vince.

Regarding the MAF. He said..

"If you want new cheaper maf then get one for a Golf VR6 OBD2...

Use Reg Number R109EHP on euro car parts website to get price"

 

VAGCOM

 

00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation

11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent

 

00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

 

00513 - The Usual Engine Speed Sensor Fault when running VAGCOM with the engine off.

 

All of these are historic faults. IE: before I replaced the MAF sensor. So I cleared them and I'll take it a drive tonight and rerun VAGCOM. It could be a Lambda fault but I tend to think this is showing an error because the MAF has been faulty. Could also be a wiring problem. Stealth will have extended the MAF wiring to relocate it behind the bumper. I'll try and trace the join. Must "borrow" a multimeter from work ;)

I've also just ordered a new Bosch MAF. Which should arrive on Monday. I'll grab the part no of the sensor itself when it arrives.

[Jon_vr6 1]

The bosch maf i got ended in 504 (correct one for corrado vr) the one on euro car parts ends 512 but looks the same part and cheaper than the one i got ill bear that in mind next time i need a maf

 

Know what you mean about the price of a new fuel pump i bit the bullet and got one from vw as i didnt want that nagging doubt "is it going to pack in after a year"

Edited April 24, 2014 by Jon_vr6

[MikeVR6 0]

i bit the bullet and got one from vw as i didnt want that nagging doubt "is it going to pack in after a year"

 

That's exactly what I mean. At the time with paying for a rebuild, charger install etc, a genuine fuel pump was just the straw that broke the camel's back. Probably the pattern one is fine. Certainly it doesn't whine like the original 18 year old one. But maybe I should have gone for a performance one at the time as they were half way between pattern and genuine in price.

[Jon_vr6 1]

As you say though it wont be the pump already, MAF or Lambda if them faults come back

[MikeVR6 0]

I managed to find a MAF relatively cheap. Just the later type film sensor on its own, no housing.

£33.69 from eBay. Just search for Part No. 0280217512

[Jon_vr6 1]

Thats good info Mike

[MikeVR6 0]

Car is only slightly better after fitting a second hand MAF sensor. I've sprung for a new Bosch one and I'll fit it soon.

00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation

11-10 Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent

Could be because the MAF is still not right. But I see this can also be fuel pump or pressure regulator related. I might change the FPR as this is relatively easy (I think). But this could be what I've always suspected about the aftermarket fuel pump. I'll start with the 167 Fuel Pump relay as that's cheap and easy

[robrado974 1]

Hi mike , I would take the car to a local trusted garage before you go buying a FPR and a pump . Get them to test the fuel pressure , this will then tell you if the pump and FPR are working right . FPR is around £80.00 and fuel pump (Bosch) is £140.00 I think .

Rob

[Jon_vr6 1]

My hesitation problem turned out to be a dying coilpack Mike so not related to the maf