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stuarttaylor37

Top Mount Help

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I have read the how to identify dead top mounts thread but am more confused now than before I started

 

My VR suddenly started clunking when turning right on hard lock (much louder than CV joint clicking)Car is on Koni's and lowering springs so hits bumps hard and crashy

 

I've looked under the bonnet and both mounts look like this

 

ebaymay013.jpgebaymay012.jpg

ebaymay011.jpg

 

Is anyone able to tell me if they're the likely cause of the clonking?

I intend to get it looked at but is it safe to drive? (carefully)

 

Thanks for any input

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They look ok, best to get the wheel off and jack up so it's not compressed.

 

Could be a broken spring or trackrod end / ball joint

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Today I jacked up the car and removed the wheel-all looked intact I couldn't see anything obviously broken

Spring looked intact but dirty

 

85f84fa4-9f28-4544-8342-e16e0f3476ee.jpg

 

I noticed though that the whole strut had dropped back down through so it was sitting back on the housing

 

ebaymay015.jpg

 

Compared to when the car is off the jack

 

ebaymay011.jpg

 

Is it meant to do that?

Edited by stuarttaylor37

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Is the noise on full lock and moving forward or when stationary going lock to lock?

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Hi Roger

I've only noticed it when moving forward on full right hand lock- as I said much louder repetitive clonking than whenever a CV joint has worn

I've just tried it when stationary and no noise

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What condition are the rest of the suspension components like? Drop links or ARB bushes can clunk in a similar style to worn top mounts. That mount doesn't look especially worn.

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Any signs of the tyre catching on anything?

 

Wishbone bushes ok?

 

Find yourself an empty car park and drive on full lock until it knocks, then take a small amount of lock off - does it still knock?

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What condition are the rest of the suspension components like? Drop links or ARB bushes can clunk in a similar style to worn top mounts. That mount doesn't look especially worn.

 

The car has been standing for three years and history for five years before that is sketchy so I honestly cant say how old anything is. Passed an MOT in Dec last year

When I looked today the bushes I could see looked intact and I tried moving the wheel hub around in all directions without any obvious play. I remember looking at the mounts a couple of weeks ago (comparing them against the ones on my 8v )and noticing that they were tight down against the strut housing tops as in the photo of the mount with the car jacked up. When I bounce the wing up and down I can see the strut top moving-should it be doing that?

 

Any signs of the tyre catching on anything?

 

Wishbone bushes ok?

 

Find yourself an empty car park and drive on full lock until it knocks, then take a small amount of lock off - does it still knock?

 

Wishbone bushes looked ok-from what I could see

 

Tried that when I took a bit of lock off it stopped

 

The faster I cornered the more readily it did it

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Do you have equal amounts of lock left and right from centre? Turn to the left put a bit of masking tape on the steering wheel at 12 oclock with L on it. Turn to the right and do the same with an R on the tape. Back to the centre, have you got too much lock one side?

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Seems to have equal amounts of lock

Went for another drive and noticed something banging around on drivers side as well now

Found this

23490eb7-f0a2-4262-8d63-9356ba497b66.jpg

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Sorry if its an obvious question but would the fact that the cars lowered and on konis stress the drop links and cause them to fail or is it more likely to just be corrosion?

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If the car is lowered equally left and right, then no, it won't stress the drop links as the arb should rotate independently to the wishbones. Likely corrosion and a cheap part combination is to blame here!

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Thanks Sean

i'm going to order new ones from Vw today

Are they easy to change? (I'm new to spannering but learning) I looked in the Wikki guide and the Bentley but couldnt see anything

Cheers

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Yeah they just bolt to the wishbone and unscrew from the end of the anti roll bar. Was the 1st thing that broke on mine. I'd soak it all in WD40 or plusgas the day before you plan to do it. It does help.

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If you are sure that is the cause of your original knocking when turning the wheel, then great. But you might also want to check the state of the bush holding the steering rack in place. I too had a knocking when turning the wheel from lock to lock recently, and it transpired the whole steering rack was moving on the sub frame. An uprated (Powerflex) bush has sorted it. HTH

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If you are sure that is the cause of your original knocking when turning the wheel, then great. But you might also want to check the state of the bush holding the steering rack in place. I too had a knocking when turning the wheel from lock to lock recently, and it transpired the whole steering rack was moving on the sub frame. An uprated (Powerflex) bush has sorted it. HTH

 

I'm not sure of anything other than by the state of it it could all do with replacing!

I'll fit the drop links and see how it drives-thanks for the tip though

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I ordered VR6 anti roll bar drop links a couple of days ago and the VW dealer has told me that they are no longer available.

Does anyone know of some good quality pattern brands as there seem to be a few available on ebay but prices are quite variable? Are the Meyle one on VW Heriage my best bet?

Also need the bolt that holds them to the wishbone if anyone knows what sort to order that would be a great help

Cheers

Edited by stuarttaylor37

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Fitted anti roll bar drop links with new stainless bolts.... Went on to fix the loose exhaust heat shield and secured a loose clip on my 8V.....felt rightly pleased with myself.

Took the VR for a drive and no more clunking around when turning.....until 5 miles into the drive the steering wheel started shaking like I hadn't tightened the wheel bolts. When I stopped there was smoke pouring from the nearside wheel caliper. I waited till it had cooled and then limped home, no wobble now but it was obviously binding. I stripped the caliper, the sliders appeared fine but I generally cleaned and re greased everything before reassembling it all. I went for a drive and that seemed to have cured it.....until the coolant light came on! I stopped, steam everywhere, no coolant and a slit in the pipe from the head to the matrix. Had to be rescued by the Mrs in her Ford! Instead of "What I did to my Corrado today" it feels more like "What my Corrado did to me today"

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