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Goldie

Electrical gremlins (oil pressure, battery charging)

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Just got back from a show today and i have a few electrical issues going on that id like some advice on.

 

1. The battery light in the cluster is dead, how is it connected in the clocks and is it a special bulb/LED?

 

2. My oil pressure gauge isn't load following and is sticking, i can get it to move by tapping the gauge pod. Is this problem going to make me sad or is there something simple i can try?

 

3. My alternator doesn't start charging the battery until i give the engine a rev, i can drive at low revs and battery voltage falls, once revved battery voltage indicates 13 +. Any ideas?

 

Numbers two and three have arrived at the same time, to be honest I've no ideas how long the battery light has been out..

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Hi Michael,

 

One of my VAG service workshop manual has the details for changing the LED's for the warning lights, I'll scan it at work tomorrow and email you.

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Check your battery charging voltage using a proper meter.

The voltage gauges are not that accurate, just like the speedo, temperature gauge, fuel gauge, etc, are also not as accurate as people think they are.

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Ive found some part numbers and sent the parts man an email. I hope its straightforward to fit them. Corrado clocks are fragile..

 

Some more info.

 

2. The oil gauge was a bit more load following tonight. What pressure are people getting at idle?

 

3. To get the alternator to 'start' i need to hot 3k revs. Anyone else had this?

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Back in the day the bulb on the dash was used to excite the alternator into operation, if the bulb blew the alternator failed to charge. I suspect the VR6 is self exciting and shouldn't rely on the bulb, but you never know when the bulb is replaced it may begin work normally again.

 

Oil pressure will depend on viscosity and temperature, the gauges work off voltage so erratic charging may affect there readings too.

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Voltage regulators on alternators don't work forever. Much cheaper than a whole new potential alternator.

 

The problem with just replacing the rectifier / regulator / brush pack is that the slip rings on the rotor are worn and scored, so they'll grind away the soft new brushes in short order. So its better to find a local reconditioner to supply and fit front and rear bearings, slip rings and brush pack, you've then got an as good as new unit for around £80 - £90.

 

If the brushes are worn to there limits they'll have a coating of soot on the ends where they've been sparking against the slip rings

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