Some alternator questions (for a VR6)

[Jim 2]

Hi folks..

 

So I just took off my just refurbished alternator (which was making a noise) and found the alternator casing was all cracked. I had another one from a breakers to put on but it won't fit. Both problems seem to hinge around this bit, where the bolts screw into:

 

http://imgur.com/Y4XNMWm

 

I presume whilst these aren't supposed to move easily, are they supposed to pull through the casing when you tighten the bolt into them? I think what's happened is that after the refurb, it hasn't moved, and instead has cracked the alternator casing instead!

 

On my spare alternator, which I think came off a Golf VR6, it seems that these bits have pulled through slightly too much meaning I can't actually get them onto the alternator bracket!

 

So I have a couple of questions:

 

1) What can I do to pull this threaded bit back through the housing so that I can fit it onto the bracket in the engine bay?

2) Any idea what a new alternator costs from VW so I can just get a new, genuine one, and be done with this whole fiasco? :)

 

Thanks.

[Toad 0]

Put a bit of wood or similar in the gap between the brackets and lever them apart a touch. I think only one of the lumps move so the pulley remains lined up properly.

 

I think my alternator came from Euro Car Parts a few years back. Can't remember much more than that though.

[Jim 2]

I screwed one of the bolts into it and then gave it a whack with a rubber mallet and it didn't seem to want to budge at all :/ Maybe some penetrant spray would be in order.

[Toad 0]

Everyone love penetration. And use a proper hammer.

[Jim 2]

Roger that!

[Toad 0]

Sex jokes!

[VAG-hag 0]

Any kind of warrenty with the refurb one Jim?

[Jim 2]

Yeah - 12 months. I just think they'll try and be funny about it given the nature of what's happened.. but from talking about it on Facebook with Graham, he's said what I felt happened. That those push in bushes that the long bolt screws into, have been painted and stuck in place. So when I tightened the bolt in, rather than them pulling in closer to the bracket as the bolt was tightened, instead the alternator casing has snapped!

 

So if I can just get a refund I can put that towards sorting a proper VW one out.

[VAG-hag 0]

Funny he said that as its exactly what I was thinking. As tom says one of those little guys should slide a little but is "sealed" with paint. I'm surprised that they didn't realise..... hope you get a good outcome mate.

[Jim 2]

I saw they were painted but I assumed when I came to refit that when I tightened the bolts the seal on the paint would just break and they'd pull tight. When I was tightening the bolts I heard a 'crack' on both bolts and that's what I figured was happening - not realising what had actually happened.

 

The alarm bells were ringing when I came to undo the bolts and the alternator basically wanted to fall off the bracket. Last time I removed it I had to lever the fecker off so I thought it was a bit odd!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I have three bosch alternators, 70a, 90a and a 120a, I noticed there were spacers that fit onto the bolts that hold alternator on (would be very easy to lose them imo), otherwise the gap is too large without them.

 

They aren't needed on the 70a alternator (from memory) but i had to fit them with my 90a and 120a. If they weren't fitted they i could see it cracking the alternator casing if tightened up without them.

[Jim Bowen 1]

I bought a new 90a bosch one, didn't come from VW, but was a bosch remanufactured in germany and cost about £270 :(

 

Have a broken 70a and a 120a if you need a case from them?

[Jim 2]

Well I currently have a 70A Bosch and my remanufactured (and now broken) 90A Valeo unit. They both have the same design it seems with these same collars. My original Valeo unit was fine when removed and as I say I was under the belief that these collars self adjust in that they'll pull in tight as you tighten the bolts up.

 

Appreciate the offer of the cases - will see how I get on at lunch time going to see these guys with the broken unit!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I'm not sure about them self adjusting, wouldn't they just end up loose and eventually the alternator would rattle about.

 

Am sure your bracket could be welded.

[James. 9]

Hey Jim.

 

Back in 2007 I priced a new alt ( for the 8v though) from VW. Came in at £750 on an exchange.

 

Ended up repairing mine instead:

 

I bought the bearings locally.

 

6203-2RS

6303-2RS

 

Just short of £11 for the both. SKF units.

 

Broke out the pullers on the bearings, put it all together and was quite pleased with myself.

 

Until I realised I'd managed to break one of the brushes on the regulator when re-assembling.

 

£10 for a new one.

Still, £21 all in for an alternator rebuild as opposed to £200+ isn't bad in my eyes.

 

Here's a handy link I found ( http://www.3dzubehor.com/Rover/Boschrepair.html ). It's for another cars alternator (still Bosch though), but the internals and process is the same. I'll be doing the same to the VR alternator...

 

... some time this millenium.

 

Hope you get fixed up.

[Jim 2]

I'm not sure about them self adjusting, wouldn't they just end up loose and eventually the alternator would rattle about.

 

Am sure your bracket could be welded.

 

They wouldn't come loose because you actually bolt into them, which pulls them tight onto the bracket until they can't be pulled / tightened any more - at least, that's how I understood it?

 

And that's some thorough information, James - may consider rebuilding this 70A Bosch alternator if I don't get anywhere with my current one :|

[Jim Bowen 1]

I'm going up to Stealth Racing on thursday, could bring my spare 70a alternator along if you want it, wouldn't want any money for it.

[Jim 2]

Appreciate it mate but the guys at the refurb place were very helpful. I've took my spare 70A in for a rebuild and they're going to strip down and check the refurb one they already did as well as look for a casing to replace the damaged one. Really helpful chap.

[VAG-hag 0]

Sounds good :)