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James.

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James. last won the day on March 20

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About James.

  • Rank
    CF Nutter

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  • Location
    West Lancashire

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  1. H plate white G60 on Miry lane Wigan. Having EXTENSIVE welding work on the 8v and only just talking about not seeing another Corrado for donkeys years. walk round the corner and there you are. Kudos.
  2. It’s for the VR6. The 8v has four ports. But thanks for flagging that up.
  3. Thanks. It’s more information than I have at the moment. If you wouldn’t mind tracing them and letting me know, you’d be doing me a solid.
  4. That would be brilliant. Just need to know which port is assigned to which brake.
  5. It doesn’t paint Corrados as well does it ? Thanks, I’ll add it to the post paint list.
  6. So after much swearing, cleaning, prodding, soaking and faffing, I’ve got the ABS module ready to be refit. Thing is, I can’t find a dickie bird in Bentley about which brake pipes fit in which port on the controller. The shape and general seating of them kind of suggests where they go. Obviously I’d rather not work with “general locations” when it comes to brakes. Could some kind soul have a look at theirs and let me know which pipe locates where please ?
  7. Is that like warp drive ? The Recaros look fit in grey by the way.
  8. I’ve used building visqueen dpm left over from a job before today. Whats the butyl stuff ? Looks like a 5mm bead in a roll ? That the gear that sticks to my hands and transfers to EVERTHING when I’m behind the cards ?
  9. They look great. Have you a part number / model for them ? The originals wear along the plastic pin. Eventually they catch on the metal casing and stick. The rubber boot is a bonus and looks neater. I’ll get some for the 8v when it sees the road again.
  10. Cheers. Strange day today though. After finding the source of the leak on Saturday, I decided to jump in the old thing and let the welder know there’s more work in the pipeline, so leave the rest of the week free. I get 50 meters down the lane and realise the damn screen has an A6 sized crack in the corner. Without any assistance from me as well. Hadn’t pocked, prodded or been near it to cause any damage. It’s not terrible news as the insurance will cover it. But blow me down if this car isn’t psychic.
  11. Holy moly, you really did. Poor thing looks like it’s been run over. Think you can save it ? (not like they’re available off the shelf).
  12. I did this last month, using a heat gun and melting a 5p size dot in the process. Looks like you did alright. All the nodes look intact as well, so kudos to you.
  13. Thanks Cressa, Dox, and Keyo. I’ve seen them cutters before, so would have been weighing one up, but I also heard the screens are a pain to remove. So may review my plan. So thanks for the honest heads up. It’s destroying the (NLA) trim around the edge that bothers me. Cheers Cressa. Hold that thought, as I may take you up on it yet. Keyo. Yep I think at any other time you’re right. Thing is the car owes me nothing. It has more than paid back the initial outlay from nearly 10 years ago. It’s going to cost about £800 to have all he welding done properly. And I (me and the boy) plan to paint it myself (ourself) learning along the way. At the very earliest I’ll only be back in work in September, so I have the time. Mechanically the car runs sweet as a nut. I tidied up all the cabin wiring this week after a poorly installed alarm led to a dashboard fire a few years ago. So it comes down to either: 1. Sell the car as is. 2. Break it. 3. Cut out the rot, paint it and use it for the forseeable future. The only value I can see in the car is the interior (which needs work), switches and moon roof. I don’t want to break it as I’m not prepared to invest my time/effort into breaking a car that doesn’t have much value. Have it sat on the drive for the next 6 months looking terrible and still be left with a shell to dispose of. Which leaves me with repairing. After welding, paint and new floor insulation, I reckon I’ll be into it for somewhere around £1500. I know it’s much lorded as the least desirable model, but unless they are preserved, there won’t be any left for the next wave of enthusiasts ( this is where I start off about us being custodians rather than owners). If I can run it for another 5 years then at least there will be some value in it further down the line. Although Oscar has expressed an interest about having it when he’s old enough to drive (and I’d already promised him the Campaign). At least that’s how I look at it. Or have I gone completely nuts. Answers on the back of a postcard to the usual address please ...
  14. As title suggests. I’ve stripped out the 8v in advance of all the welding work and found the insulation/felt in the front footwells to be damp and rotten. Turns out the door has dropped on the drivers side. Causing water ingress along the lower part of the seal. Put my thumb through the floor where it’s been leaking in for some time. That’s the least of my concerns though. Passenger footwell had half an inch of water there as well. Must be the foliage seal. Replaced and felt pretty chuffed. Until I got up this morning and found the water had returned. Stripped out the glovebox and air vent to investigate. All the felt on the bulkhead was damp and rotten. Removed the A pillar trim to see the metal frame/sealant split and beading water. After pulling the window bead, there’s rust a hole on either side. So that explains the terrible rot in the sills then. The water is running down the window, onto the bulkhead, down behind the ABS ecu and into the footwell. So it looks like the windscreen is coming out as well. God damn car’s rustier than a fishermans bucket. I’ve got cover on the insurance but will do it myself if it’s straight forward. So has anyone done this ?
  15. Ecu relay can develop hairline cracks where the pins meet the pcb at the soldered joint. Leading to intermittent starting. Re-flow the joint. Certainly a cheap fix to start with.
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