Roger Chatfield 0 Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) So I was driving along today in town traffic, water temp was 100, oil 110 when the temp warning light starts flashing, so I'm not far from home and seeing that the temps are normal I nursed it home. Got the bonnet up and yep, there is water dripping out the bottom of the engine, bugger, got to be the rad so i let it cool down and refilled the system, then ran the engine for a bit... nope its not the rad, its a leak where a pipe joins the solid coolant pipe that run across the front of the engine. A few pics, the arrow is where the leak is. I hope you can see where it is. So, I'm guessing a hole in either the hose or the solid pipe, maybe just a bad joint but I'm not holding my breath. Look like its a inlet manifold off job, any advice would be appreciated, also it it common for a leak there?? Rog. Edited August 14, 2014 by Roger Chatfield Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan_Storm 0 Posted August 13, 2014 Looks like it is the hose that goes from the crack pipe to the oil cooler. They often fail. It's usually easier to remove the front end to gain access. If you go to the effort of removing the front end it is work replacing the crackipe and both oil cooler hoses while you have access. There are a few other oil seals you could replace depending how far you want to go. From personal experience I would say do everything you can while the front end is off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrginge 0 Posted August 13, 2014 I replaced the oil cooler seals and the rubber pipes only a few days ago without removing the whole front end, i had the bumper off though which was helpful as I could see around the side of the radiator to get an idea of where everything is and could reach under the car. it would be easier if you have access to ramps to do the job standing up underneath but if needs must, since you are likely to drain the coolant system is wrestle the fan/rad out of the way first you ought to be able to do the job from above. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted August 13, 2014 If indeed it is the pipe from the crack pipe to the oil cooler then yep.. you're ideally gonna have to get the front end off to get at it though thinking back on the job (and the number of times I've had the front end off my car in the last few weeks) you could conceivably get at it from under the car if it were on ramps.. not sure.. Anyway you'll be pleased to know the pipe is still available from VW and not very expensive at all (£6 if I remember correctly?). I'd consider ordering a crack pipe just in case that's gone too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted August 13, 2014 Pita for you mate , hope you get this sorted soon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted August 14, 2014 Little update. I've had a busy day... started like this.. Then this... And finally this... And, we have a culprit.. the crack pipe has gone brittle and.... yep... cracked...lol I managed to break it even more when I removed it so it's deffo due a change. So, where is the best place to get one, I've seen a few on the bay of e but for about £15 but are they any good?? Also, thought while I was about it I'll sort out a few things while the front is in bits, there is a bit of surface rust on the sub frame ect so that'll get a rub down and hammerite, as will the cooling fan brackets. And I thought I'd get the rad pressure tested since it was out, my local friendly radiator man will do it however when he picked the rad up he commented on how heavy it was, he reckons it's full of silt ect, says it's quite common on this style of rad as the inlet and out let are on the same side, so he is going to take the tanks off and have a look, should just need a clean through but it does make you wonder. Rog. P.S. who does those lovely stainless rad brackets on here? my OE ones are looking a bit tired. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted August 14, 2014 Just get a VW crackpipe Roger and before you reinstall give the hole that the crackpipe goes into a damn good clean with sandpaper and get it smooth. Otherwise when you put the new one on there will be a chance that it doesnt sit right or damage the O ring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diarmaid16 1 Posted August 14, 2014 £8 from vw spares (manufactured by Mehle). Agree with Jon, take your time and clean the hole well. It'll make fitting much easier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted August 14, 2014 Daves16v does the brackets Rog, have a look in the suppliers forum for the thread. My crack pipe did exactly that when I removed it too. I got one from vdubmachine for a tenner in the end. As mentioned, give the whole a Damn good rub down and a light smearing of grease before refitting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted August 14, 2014 They don't just crack, they actually go porous as well. Took mine off after it'd had some K-Seal in the system - in snapped in half on removal and you could see the golden specks of sealant had permeated almost halfway through the wall thickness of the plastic! The plastic ones last well if you buy new - might as well change the thermostat housing while you're at it as it's the same plastic (so probably also getting tired) and not much extra work. Parts were only about £20 when I did mine. Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted August 15, 2014 Little update, phoned the rad man today and he says my rad is 90% blocked and I need a new one, he has quoted £125 plus the vat.... errr.. no thanks.... managed to find one on ebay for £70 with a years warranty, also got a new rad switch for £8. Managed to get a few things done during my break at work last night. Fan frame stripped of fans and shrouds ready for a wire brush and some lovely hammerite. Got a few bits through the parts washer. before.. After.. There is definitely a small oil leak somewhere on the mocal oil cooler, I'm not sure if its the hoses, the fittings or the actual cooler so as it was a bit of a bodge when I fitted it I've decided to bite the bullet and buy new Jic 10 fitting and 5/8 piping, the increased bore of the pipe should aid the cooling a bit and hopefully it'll be leak free. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 Gar 10 Posted August 15, 2014 Annoyingly Rog I have a really clean Rad you could have had for £40 and a used crack pipe you could have for free if you want it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted August 15, 2014 Annoyingly Rog I have a really clean Rad you could have had for £40 and a used crack pipe you could have for free if you want it. Bugger, forgot you are breaking a VR... cheers for the offer mate but I've paid now. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites