Jump to content
corrado wannabe

Advice required please on Shock absorber fitting

Recommended Posts

After spending 12 hours changing a shock absorber, ball joint and track rod end. I was rapidly losing the love!

 

Before I start the other side, what is the correct (ie easiest and proper tool) for loosening and tightening the top nut on the shock absorber?

 

I cannot make out how the laser tool for the job works. I get the one with the slot for tightening the collar nut, but the three piece set they sell I cant understand how it works.

 

 

As far as I can see the 22mm nut sits so deep in the top plate that any normal offset spanner wont do, also it requires a 7mm Hex key to hold the Shaft on the shock from turning while tightening the nut.

 

What have you used, and how did you get the nut to the correct torque if you used a spanner?

 

Dougie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used a drop link ring spanner, i got it from some plumbing place but i figure its not just for plumbing. Don't think i bothered with the torque settings, but do have hex bits that fit onto my torque wrench so probably could of done it that way.

 

I think it just tightens as up to the end of the thread on the shock shaft. Wouldn't use a impact driver to do it up, i had a bit of a mishap with mine and stripped the threads on a brand new koni shock :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jim,

 

The plan was to torque it up with the Tourque wrench on the Hex end as you say. Its just trying to get a spanner that will hold the nut in the recess. I have managed to fudge it a bit by holding the nut (badly) with a normal spanner while turning the hex, but I dont think I have got it anywhere near as tight as it needs to be.

 

I bought a 22mm spanner from Halfrauds, but it wasnt up to the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just pretend you have an awkward flange and you've got your nuts stuck in there, they will understand :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just pretend you have an awkward flange and you've got your nuts stuck in there, they will understand :lol:

 

And please film the reaction and post haha!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMGP0312.jpg

 

I have a vortex socket set now but for years I used the above method, grind 2 flats on a socket parrallel to the square drive so as to not weaken it too much then use a spaanner on the flats and an allen key through the middle of the socket

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lambda probe socket also works well as the cut out for the wiring allows the access for the allen key...

 

Otherwise - air gun!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its more about the tightening Sanky. Although when loosening, if the shock is fooked it will turn as well.

 

Even with the wheel on the ground if you don't hold both the nyloc nut and the Hex nut, the shaft of the shock absorber will turn. This can loosen the collar nut that holds the Macpherson strut together.

 

Bought another 22mm socket and will use the grinder method and torque using the Hex bolt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...