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KARMANN

Relay 167 car won't start

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Hi folks, jumped in the car today and it would not start. Relay 167 is clicking like mad when trying to start but it won't fire up. What should I be checking?

It failed to start a few months ago and a play around with a black cable above the front engine mount sorted it. That cable seems to go into the bowels of the engine. Tried moving that but it doesn't help this time.

 

Cheers Fraser

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The clicking is usually a result of a dead battery, but seeing as you sorted it a while back by playing with the earth, I'd say it may well be that at fault. Remove the battery and trace the earth cable to the securing point just to the left of where the battery sit (left as you're looking at it). Remove the nut, insect and clean the ring connector, clean up the thread and re-assemble. If no joy clean up the other earth points in the bay - rear rocker cover, gearbox bellhousing, starter motor. Reassemble with a bit of copper or silicon Grease and you should be good for a while.

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Good advice from Sean as always......failing that I will have a relay you can borrow to rule it in or out? :)

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Think the cable I played around with was the crank position sensor. It's not a dead battery as I've had it connected up to a charger whilst endlessly trying ideas. I'm not getting a spark and have in the process snapped a ht lead.

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It'll still turn over if the crank sensor is at fault, but won't start. Are you positive the battery is good? Maybe worth a try jumping it to see what happens, or using a jump cable from neg battery terminal directly to the engine block or a chassis point to rule out the earth cable then.

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It turns over fine, the 167 relay clicks away while turning over. (sorry I should have been clearer in original post) yeah the battery is definitely fine, just tried it with another battery to be sure and it's just the same. So I have no spark at the end of the leads, what's the process of what to check working back from there?

 

Fraser

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Are you getting fuel? I have just recently sorted mine which was not running although I was getting no clicks from the relay, I had a damaged pipe to the fuel regulator on the fuel rail and also found the regulator when wiggled the car would start.

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Ah I see. Yeah I'm pretty sure if there is no reading from crank sensor the Ecu cuts power to the coil/dizzy, so you won't get a spark. Have a look where the crank sensor bolts to the block. The cable is at 90 degrees and is a weak point, so it's common for them to break there.

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Does the crank sensor come with the weak section of cable? If so I'm going to order one and wait until it arrives to do further checks.

Out of curiosity is the a tool available for removing the HT leads. It has the 7mm dub power ones fitted. Which I'm now going to replace as I snapped one.

 

Fraser

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Yeah the cable forms part of the sensor, and plugs into the loom around the front engine mount. There is a plastic lead removal tool as standard which attaches to the bonnet prop, but it's pretty rubbish to be honest. Metal ones are available on ebay pretty cheap and are far better.

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Brilliant you are a star Sean. I'll have a look online tonight for a sensor and get a tool ordered up.

 

Fraser

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No worries mate. Just re-read your first post and you did mention it was above the front mount, not the battery neg which I went on a bit of a tangent from and probably confused you a bit. Soz, my bad! :bonk:

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