badsamaritan 10 Posted April 18, 2016 Hi folks, My valver is sort of overheating I think. Ever since I owned it, its operating temperature is 110 degrees celcius. Having owned some modern vws I thought the operating temp should be 90 degrees. I have changed the temperature switches,checked timing and put new G12 coolant but the temp remains at 110. Is there something I am missing. Is my fan not working efficiently or that is normal temperature for these cars?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted April 18, 2016 Is that water (on the dash gauge) or oil (on the mfa)? If it water, yes that is high. I'd certainly look into why, and check your fans are working correctly, then change out the thermostat and water pump as a start, and go from there. If it's oil temp, it's a little high, but I wouldn't be too worried about it. The same applies with the fixes for the water system to get oil temp a little more under control. Usually around this time of year in mixed traffic and normal driving, in a 16v you should be seeing oil at between 90-110. Only worry if it's creeping north of 120 regularly though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badsamaritan 10 Posted April 18, 2016 Its water on the dash gauge. I installed a new pump with new thermostat as the old pump was leaking slightly. The thing is I bought the thermostat from GSF, maybe its not good quality. How do I check if fan operates on all two stages im told they have two stage fans Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted April 18, 2016 If the stat fails, it tends to fail in the open position so it'll over cool. The way to test is to let the car warm up from idle, and keep checking the bottom rad Hose. At around 87 degrees the stat should open, and the bottom Hose will get hot. I'm not 100% on the valver fans. Have a look at the definitive cooling guide in engine bay section, and it'll tell you how to test them somewhere along the way. Only other thing could be the rad partially blocked I suppose. Keep an eye on your oil temp though, it'll give you more of an idea if there is actually a problem or if it's a bit of an electrical problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badsamaritan 10 Posted April 18, 2016 If the stat fails, it tends to fail in the open position so it'll over cool. The way to test is to let the car warm up from idle, and keep checking the bottom rad Hose. At around 87 degrees the stat should open, and the bottom Hose will get hot. I'm not 100% on the valver fans. Have a look at the definitive cooling guide in engine bay section, and it'll tell you how to test them somewhere along the way. Only other thing could be the rad partially blocked I suppose. Keep an eye on your oil temp though, it'll give you more of an idea if there is actually a problem or if it's a bit of an electrical problem. Thanks very much!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 18, 2016 Order one of these (IR thermometer), invaluable for tracking down cooling problems, and it's just as useful for central heating http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-instruments/pp_218366.html?wid=3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted April 19, 2016 What does the coolant temperature sit at when you're doing a set speed on the motorway? VW engineered their temperature gauges on cars in the era after the Corrado to ignore slight temperature fluctuations and sit locked on at 90, because of the amount of queries from customers about the temperature being over 90! So don't use them as an example of where your coolant temperature needle should sit - it certainly will move up and down the gauge depending on the weather, driving speed, etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites