Shuddery Brakes - AGAIN

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I think that you may have one or more sticking calliper guide pins. There are two each side. The callipers are the floating type, which means there is only one piston and the calliper slides to equalise the pressure on each side of the disc On light application of the brakes, the outer (piston side) pad will be sufficient to brake the car, but when you press harder for higher speed braking the calliper will then stick on one pin and apply the pressure to the pads eccentrically. This will jam the pad into the disc causing it to judder. Fairly straightforward to check and rectify if the pins are not corroded or contaminated and the plastic bushes in the callipers they slide in are not damaged. Parts are available.

It looks as though your car is almost completely standard, so you may be averse to modification, but if you are needing to replace components, consider using 288mm discs, carriers and callipers from a Golf VR6 together with braided flexible hoses . The increase in pad area makes for much greater resistance to brake fade and the reinforced hoses decrease pedal travel a little. It is a completely reversible modification if you are worried about losing originality. They look entirely standard unless the callipers have been painted (usually red).

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[VR-Sixy 0]

Hello Roger,

 

thanks for the above. This goes a long way explaining what's happening and i think you may have hit the nail firmly on the head. I'm not sure if my garage just replaces the discs every time, pretty sure they do. Maybe closer inspection tothe calipers are required when i get the new discs done. Once again, many thanks for the info. Most helpful.

[seanl82 23]

A decent garage should notice if the slide pins are stuck. It's a simple case of pulling them out, removing old cover Grease and checking for corrosion, re-creating and sliding back in

Even the most novice could do it.

[jekel 10]

The whole design of the later 288, and 312 mm brakes (same calipers) are much better. Slider design miles better and pad contact area something like 70% more, so much more powerful. I had a new set of standard ones on my VR and still never felt right.

There's always plenty available, loads of Audi/VW used, TT, mk3 VR6, lots of Skodas I think.

Can get Pagid discs and pads from Europarts, MK3 Golf VR6 97, should fit.

I got brand new set on Ebay.

I'd scrap the old ones and do that, also check front wheel bearings, all front ball joints etc., and CV's, personally I'd renew the lot, if they weren't dodgy probs. are now if been vibrating that bad.

 

Bet someone on here has the calipers you need. I've got some mint Audi ones which can be fitted with mods., had fitted to mine for a bit, but really needs someone with experience and tools, wouldn't recommend getting done at local garage.

[VR-Sixy 0]

Can someone look at post #18 on page 2....... the discs i've bought look to be 288's - are these a straight swap for the 280's which are on the car now?

Thanks.

[seanl82 23]

No, 288mm disks require different calipers, carriers and pads. The calipers have a different hose fitment too. It says further down in the ad they're 280mm diameter though. No Corrado came with 288mm disks as standard, so if they are then you should be ok to return them, as they're advertised as a Corrado fitment - which essentially they're not.

[VR-Sixy 0]

No, 288mm disks require different calipers, carriers and pads. The calipers have a different hose fitment too. It says further down in the ad they're 280mm diameter though. No Corrado came with 288mm disks as standard, so if they are then you should be ok to return them, as they're advertised as a Corrado fitment - which essentially they're not.

Thanks Sean, apprecaite your reply. Looks like i'm going to have to return them.

[fla 9]

My steering wheel shakes left to right rapidly on hard braking from speed. Never any issue at 30 mph no matter how hard i stomp on the pedal. Recently regreased tbe pads and slider pins but the car then stood for 6 months (sorn). Anything else to look out for? Or is it just the normal abs operation?

[odub 0]

How are the bushes? These can cause pulling and vibration under braking

[fla 9]

The wishbone bushes? I'll check them and report back. If they are shot how easy are they to remove?

[seanl82 23]

Do you have a press Hasan? If not, probably easier and cheaper to replace the whole wishbones. They're surprisingly inexpensive and come with bushes in place. Veedubmachune also sell them (though aftermarket) with the TT rear bushes. Unless you polybush the lot, in which case cost wise I imagine will probably work out the same. Just be careful of the securing bolts, they have a habit of shearing!

[fla 9]

That's useful sean. To check the bushes it's just a question of using a pry bar either side and checking for excess movement?

[Will.I.Dub 11]

Worth checking there isn't a rust/pad mark on the disc from when the car was unused, this has happened to me before and the symptoms were as you describe.

[robrado974 1]

The wish bones are not too bad to replace Hasan . As Sean said they come with the bushes already in . They are around 40.00 each . Unfortunately you will have to remove the sump for the passenger side as the bolt hits it before it’s fully out .

[fla 9]

Ah bummer. I can just see myself swearing at it had you not pointed that out Rob! Just done an oil change too but never mind.

[fla 9]

Worth checking there isn't a rust/pad mark on the disc from when the car was unused, this has happened to me before and the symptoms were as you describe.

 

Good shout Will. Ive used it for a couple of hundred miles so hopefullynthat shoukd have normalised the discs and pads.

[fla 9]

Incidentally is it recommended to replace both wishbones at the same time or just one if the bushes in only one have failed?

[Will.I.Dub 11]

Generally I would expect both sides to deteriorate at roughly the same rate, if one side is shot it's likely the other is too

[fla 9]

Do you have a press Hasan? If not, probably easier and cheaper to replace the whole wishbones. They're surprisingly inexpensive and come with bushes in place. Veedubmachune also sell them (though aftermarket) with the TT rear bushes. Unless you polybush the lot, in which case cost wise I imagine will probably work out the same. Just be careful of the securing bolts, they have a habit of shearing!

 

Just checked the veedubmachine site - looks like they're out of stock. But i couldn't see anywhere suggesting they had the tt bushes in them?

[robrado974 1]

Ah bummer. I can just see myself swearing at it had you not pointed that out Rob! Just done an oil change too but never mind.

 

I’ve got to do mine again Hasan . I didn’t check the part numbers !. They look the same but it looks like I’ve fitted a VR bone and a valver bone . After around 20 miles the drivers side wheel kept hitting the roll bar , it was only when someone on here pointed out what could be problem that I realised, oh that and one wheel sticks out further than the other!. Put a new sump on too !

[odub 0]

Just checked the veedubmachine site - looks like they're out of stock. But i couldn't see anywhere suggesting they had the tt bushes in them?

 

If there is a picture it's easy to tell. The TT bushes are solid rubber and the normal more standard bush has indents in the rubber which allow more movement/comfort

[seanl82 23]

Just had a look and it doesn't look like they list them anymore. Soz mate!

[robrado974 1]

I think mine are coming from TPS .

[fla 9]

Had the corrado MOT'd today. No issues apart from a bit of corrosion on the brale pipes and unions. Prodded the wishbones but all bushes seemed fine. As did the steering rod ends. Any other suggestions regarding the wheel vibration issue? Discs are also clean.

Edited August 14, 2018 by fla

[Dox 23]

You need to use a DTI on the disks to check the run out