FrankyEight 10 Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) Hi guys, I've a '95 2.0 16v which has recently developed an overheating problem. Over a 20-30 minute drive from cold, the water temperature rises as normal and the fan kicks in as it should. However the temperature keeps rising until around 110 degrees centigrade when the fan goes into overdrive, spinning at its quickest setting, very loud. My warning water temperature light on the dash does NOT come on. Can anyone advise what this might be? I first noticed this issue yesterday morning and topped up the water last night (as it may have been low, difficult to see the max/min level through my expansion tank) left the car overnight and test drove the car just now, same issue. Any help very much appreciated. Edited November 11, 2016 by FrankyEight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted November 11, 2016 Shine a torch behind the expansion tank so you can see the water level easier. You may have a leak so keep an eye on it and carry some premixed coolant round with you until the problem is sorted. I chased a leak for ages, with nothing obvious at first, then found the bottom thermostat flange had gone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted November 11, 2016 I would leave the car running with newspaper or cardboard underneath the bay , if you have a leak you will know . There is an excellent guide to the cooling system in the search . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted November 12, 2016 is the coolant circulating ok? possibly thermostat not opening? worse case waterpump.... are the top and bottom hoses on radiator getting hot? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted November 12, 2016 is the coolant circulating ok? possibly thermostat not opening? worse case waterpump.... are the top and bottom hoses on radiator getting hot? Definitely check this one. Let the engine get fairly warm (water up to middle of the gauge) then check both the top and bottom radiator hoses. They should of course both be hot. If one is still cool, it means the thermostat is stuck shut and isn't circulating coolant through the radiator properly, just trapping it within the engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted November 12, 2016 Agree with the above, my old valver started overheating and it turned out water wasn't circulating, the impeller was still there but had come away from the pump so was doing nothing. Then checked the thermostat as a precaution and there wasn't one there :lol: Needless to say both items were replaced and all was well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Hi guys, Only just seen your replies but have just started the car and let it run on idle for a while. Sure enough, after 25-30 minutes the oil temperature reaches 116 and the water finally hits 110 at which point the quick spin fan kicks in and the car sounds like its going to take off. As you've guys have speculated, I'm not sure I'm actually losing water, so therefore wonder if its a circulation issue. I'm afraid cars isn't my first language so I'm not sure I know what I'm doing with regards checking hoses and temperature/thermostat switches etc. I've got it booked in at the garage on Friday so will relay this info on to them and hope its not a costly water pump job! Thanks Edited November 13, 2016 by FrankyEight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted November 13, 2016 Even a complete non mechanic can check the hoses :-) If you open the bonnet and look at the very front of the engine bay behind the grille is the radiator. If you look to the right hand side of the radiator you should see coolant pipes running out of both the top and the bottom of the radiator. If you get the car up to temperature and then feel those two hoses... they should both be hot! If one is hot and one is only mild or cool then the thermostat isn't open ring correctly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted November 13, 2016 Great, thanks. I'll take a look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted November 14, 2016 Agreed it sounds very much like a water pump or thermostat issue. Depending on mileage an original water pump will gradually rot away (made of aluminium) and eventually not produce any coolant flow. Newer pumps have a plastic impellor and they are press fit into a stainless shaft - these suffer from the fit degraded and the shaft spins but the impellor does not. Worse case its a new pump and I would get them to replace the thermostat too as you have to remove that to get the pump off and its only a few quid for a new one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) Checked both hoses after getting the car up to temperature and they're both hot. I guess the water pump is the culprit then. After spending nearly £700 on repair work to get it through its MOT 2 weeks ago, I cannot wait to go back and see how much this is all going to cost... PS Shouldn't my temperature light come on on the dash if my car is overheating? And at what temperature does the water need to be, before the dash light comes on? Edited November 16, 2016 by FrankyEight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted November 16, 2016 The light is for low level not temp unfortunately. Fingers crossed when you remove the old one its obvious its at fault. Best of luck mate! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted November 18, 2016 Thought I'd try and conclude this post in case others have similar experiences. Picked the car up from the garage today. No leak, radiator is good and thermostat working as it should. As the fan was noisy and apparently smelt a bit like burning they replaced the fan motor and fan. Since then, drove it back and let it run idle for a while at my house. The water still eventually sits on 109/110 but doesn't move from there (didn't before). However this time I don't hear the fan and if its now spinning at a higher speed because of the higher temperature, its so quiet I can't tell the difference. So, either my car just runs with a water temperature of 109/110 and that's normal, or my dash is giving me a higher reading than is true! Perplexing. There are no other indications to suggest there's anything wrong apart from this high reading... I guess I'll just wait and see... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted November 18, 2016 If it's any consolation my 2.0 16v always read high on water temp but it never felt that hot in the engine bay. Nor were there any other obvious symptoms of it cooking! It could just be a dodgy sensor or bad wiring somewhere. May be worth picking up one of those infrared laser temp probes and getting th car up to temp then seeing whether the pipes match the kind of temperature it's suggesting. May also be worth a coolant change, if that's not been done in a while. What sort of colour is the coolant in the expansion tank? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted November 18, 2016 Thanks for the comments. Coolant is still pink. I've actually just taken the car out on a 20 mile journey and, on normal driving, the temperature actually fluctuates between 90-100 which I guess is normal. It's only when idling/sitting in traffic when it rises and sits at 110. But, as you said, the bay doesn't seem particularly hot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
