1.8L 8V G60 with AEB Block - lots of pics

[Geeba 0]

Nice build! great pics ;)

[Northendroid 10]

Nice build! great pics ;)

 

Thank you!

[Northendroid 10]

Mk4 Shifter and transmission shifter tower. Bit of clean and lubrication and should be good to go. Perfect time to do this while the engine out. :D

 

 

Got the timing pulley cleaned and painted, just need to do the same to the intermittent shaft pulley.

 

Got the BBM 268/260 camshaft changed out and the FPR. Also put the chipped ECU back in the car.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Buddy of mine offered me a set of 15" x 6" Sebrings at my favourite price (free LOL), I just got to get them from one end to the country to the other though.

 

 

 

Looking to do a custom lip to them:

Also going to need center caps.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Picked up a second 02A tranny from a 16V Passat for the 20V. build, has a better gear ratio then the stock tranny. Bonus got a newer starter (which I needed) and another clutch with on 6,000 KM on it. The drawback was it was an 16hrs road trip to go get it in Windsor, Ontario.

 

 

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Pick up the Neuspeed Strut Bar these were made for the VR6 but it will clear the G60 intake manifold with a bit of tweaking.:D

 

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Parts came in today just waiting on piston ring gap tool :D

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[odub 0]

Nice, please keep the updates coming

[Northendroid 10]

Removed the intermittent shaft pulley from the PG block to test fit onto the AEB block, turn out that the PG pulley needs machining to add a keyway since the intermittent of the AEB pulley has the keyway built into the pulley. All part of a hybrid build.

PG on the left - AEB on the right

 

 

Close up of the AEB pulley

 

AEB intermittent shaft keyway is cut right thru the shaft.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

More parts arrived for the Corrado:

Prothane Bushing Kit (new still in box from Vortex Member)

Center Caps for the Sebring Wheels

Diesel Geek - MK4 Shifter, Side to Side Bushings, Side to Side Super Slider

Phenix Engineering - MK4 Shifter Bracket Bushings

Piston Ring Gap tool - Can start putting internals back together :D

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[STU175 0]

nice.

wish id upgraded shifter while it was in pieces.

[Northendroid 10]

Yes no better time while the engine out and have easy access to the tunnel.

[Northendroid 10]

Prepped,painted 02A shift tower and the shift cable support bracket, install new bushings, slider and tower shaft seal.

 

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[odub 0]

Looking good

[Northendroid 10]

More progress on the Rado.

Yesterday I built a ghetto engine lift out of 2 x4, 2 x6 with a 1 ton cable puller :cuckoo: to swap out the old PG block with the new AEB block on the engine stand, while I had the AEB block on the lift installed the flywheel and used my flywheel lock tool and got the AEB crank bolt loose.

Safely on the engine stand without hurting myself or others LOL!

 

Had a stripped allen bolt that holds the harmonic pulley/power steering pump pulley to the crank pulley, bolt the assembly onto the AEB block, drove a torxs bit into it held back the crankshaft at the opposite end and was able to break away the bolt :dance:

 

Installed the pistons into the AEB block:

 

All went well till I got to piston#4, notice the rod bearing cap was fitting right when I snug up the bolts prior to checking bearing clearance. Remove the piston only to find the skirt on the opposite side of the oil squirters now has a chip broken off. The PG block doesn't have an impulse wheel so I know need to remove the crankshaft, impulse wheel and re-install everything. I'll be looking for another stock 81mm PG piston and some new cap bolts as well. Another hiccup in the hybrid build :D

 

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Ordered main bearing bolts. M10x65 Part# N10263801 and ARP conrod bolts.

Will also need to get the big end of the conrod re-hone as per ARP instructions:

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Dropped off the conrods and ARP bolt at the machine shop to re-size. Got the impulse wheel removed and everything retorqued.

 

Got the stripped allen bolt loose on last days off but had looked at the harmonic balancer, like I expected 25yrs old rubber is cracked so be replacing that as well.

 

 

Any suggestions? Fluidampr?

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Bauhaus 3]

My view is a fluid damper is ok for a high revving track car but not really necessary for a road car.

 

However I'm not familiar with AEB block myself, but if your using the std G60 ribbed pulley and damper then the 8v 2L combined crank damper/ribbed pulley is a straight swap and is lighter to, but if your crank pulley is the same as the 16v KR/PL and the 2L variants then a 8v 2L damper/ribbed pulley with 5mm shaved off will fit, or even better a 1.8t crank damper with combined ribbed pulley with a machined 5mm spacer behind fits a treat.. But be aware he the std G60 is 137mm dia and the 2L 8v is 133mm dia so will under drive anything attached to it so if your using a G60 charger use a smaller pulley to compensate.

[Northendroid 10]

Thanks for the info got a new 1.8T crank damper/pulley lined up from iAbed Industries here in Canada only an hour away from my home town. He's also going to fabricate a new P/S pulley.Crank pulley, IM shaft pulley, timing belt tensioner and 8V head/cam pulley are transferred from the PG block. Needed to get the IM pulley modified as mentioned a few post up.

[Bauhaus 3]

Thanks for the info got a new 1.8T crank damper/pulley lined up from iAbed Industries here in Canada only an hour away from my home town. He's also going to fabricate a new P/S pulley.Crank pulley, IM shaft pulley, timing belt tensioner and 8V head/cam pulley are transferred from the PG block. Needed to get the IM pulley modified as mentioned a few post up.

 

No need for Mr Abed to make a custom P/S crank pulley, everything you need is from a MK3 golf..

Power steering crankshaft pulley 037 105 253 D

Power steering pump pulley 051 145 255

Using the above with the 1.8T ribbed pulley with a 5mm machined spacer behind it then everything will line up perfectly.

[Northendroid 10]

Thanks again for the parts number will look into it availability.

[Northendroid 10]

Still waiting for the Conrod to get back from machine shop so prepped a bunch of parts for paint yesterday and today got the cylinder head prepped and painted. Using my wind driven side draft paint booth:

 

 

My drying area:

 

Cylinder head primed two coats of VHT etching primer, tried VHT Aluminum but wasn't a big fan of how it looked, so doing two coats of VHT Titanium Silver Blue then two coats of VHT clear coat.

Primered:

 

Yesterday took the alternator apart to see if it was worth rebuilding, ordered new bearing, voltage regulator and slip rings for

 

 

Also ordered two idler pulley from the UK was the cheapest I could find.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[Northendroid 10]

Installed new coolant flanges, new "O" rings, clips and cleaned up the temp sensors. Cleaned up the fuel rail, injectors and bracketing.Finished painting the valve cover and put it all back together ready to install on the block.

 

 

Temp sensors corrosion removed:

 

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid

[odub 0]

it's starting to take shape and looks good

[Northendroid 10]

So got the conrods back from the machine shop today, started with piston 4 this time around since that one had the issue of the piston hitting the impulse wheel. Well the impulse wheel is out but now the piston is hitting the oil squirter.

 

So removed the crankshaft and measured what I need to clear the oil squirter measurement is 4.63mm.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid