Repacing the front brakes on a VR6.

[harrisvr6 0]

I am in dire need to replace the front brakes on my standard VR6, I have a few questions.

It looks like the pads are ok and its just the discs, but am planning on changing both.

 

I have done the rears before, and I was wondering how doing the fronts compare to the rears, do I need to get new bearings too etc?

Is there a guide on how this should be done exactly anywhere?

 

Also, is it wise to replace anything else or be aware of anything while I'm at it (Im assuming the bolts that hold the brake carriers on will need replacing?) but do i also need the wind back tool like the backs?

 

Sorry I know this seems a bit vague but I dont want to take things off, break something and be relegated to a pushbike for the foreseeable future (doing the rears was pretty much my mechanical limit of difficulty).

 

If it is a trickier job, how much would think it would cost to have someone do it for me (approx ballpark figure).

 

Thanks all.

[Jim 2]

Fronts are a doddle... arguably easier than the rears. No bearings to replace as they are not integral to the disc like the rears. They work the same as virtually another modern era car with disc brakes.

 

Worth having a quick look on YouTube for some tutorial videos on other era VW's like MK3 or MK4 Golf. Honestly they are a piece of cake :)

 

You don't need to wind back the front calipers in the same way and can just lever them open with a screwdriver utilising the old brake pads which it is probably worth changing!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I just use a G clamp to push the pistons back on the front.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Wheel off. Take out the two hex head slider pins, then gently lever off the caliper. Support it dont let it hang on the hose.Take the pads off the carrier. If you need to change the disc, undo two bolts holding the carrier to the hub, then undo the locating screw holding the disc. You may need to tap the back of the disc to get it to come off of the hub. THOROUGHLY CLEAN all mating and sliding surfaces before reassembly. The piston can be pushed into the caliper without winding, but check the condition of the dust seal and generally check for fluid leaks. Also inspect the flexible hose for swelling and cracking, and metal pipes

for corrosion.Lightly smear copper grease onto slding surfaces of back plates of the pads, NOT onto friction surface.The caliper carrier bolts are done up to over 100Nm.

 

It is all mu h simpler than the rear discs.

 

best wishes

 

RB

[GazG60 0]

Please remember to undo the brake fluid reservoir cap and have an old rag or something to soak up any fluid that comes out. Top up afterwards but it might be an opportunity to flush the system and fill with new brake fluid.

[harrisvr6 0]

Thanks for the pointers gutys, its much appreciated. I made a start tonight, I got to the last bolt holding the disc on and we,... The bolt was already pretty mashed, I put the drill on it and even gently it completley trashed it, I tried pushing even harder in the vain it might grip and it just started drilling it out.

 

What should I do, Im considering putting back together until I have some sort of tool to get that out, or drilling the head off the screw with the elec drill?

 

Also, isnt the pads meant to have a small clip thing that sit near the top and bottom of the pad between the brake itself. The rears had these.

[harrisvr6 0]

Another possible issue, the 2x pins that slide the carrier and caliper together, I dont know what its called but there is an approx 3 mm rip on one of those ribber cover pieces. I cleaned and greased them both but the one with the rip feels a bit different. Is this a problem or can I jsut angle the rip to where it will be semi shielded by a tiny jutting out bit on the brake?

[robrado974 1]

I've got a pair of the rubber boots . Albeit second hand , there are no rips . If you want them , drop me a pm with your address and I will send them to you .

Rob

[Jim Bowen 1]

I'd just drill the screw out. Its quite small and just helps locate the disc. Not fitted them back to mine as half the screw is still in the hole. I bought a new wheel bearing and noticed it comes with a new screw for that

[Cressa 44]

And the fronts DON'T have the metal sliders that are fitted to the rears.

Good luck with that awkward screw

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[harrisvr6 0]

Hi all, many thanks for all the pointers guys, I did it this eve and it was a success!

In the end I had to drill out both sides - the bolt that holds the disc in place is stuck in both holes, but its all gone back together ok AND seems to work ok too.

Feck knows how I'll get it back out though...

 

The trickiest parts were screwing the wheel back on with it all flapping about a bit, and the 2x 17mm hex bolts holding the brakes on (I only had a breaking bar and could move it about 10cm of a rotation at a time, but, alas, it's done.

 

I cant thank you all enough. To me this was very daunting! But when you carefully do it stage by stage it wasn't too bad.

This forum is soo helpfull, I cant stress how much this has helped me! Corrado owners are the bomb!

 

Thanks all!