Still won't stay on

[Popeye775 16]

Hey Guys,

 

I'm starting a new thread because my other issue got solved haha. So, my G60 is having a major problem. It won't stay on for more than 8 minutes without shutting off and not turning back on until it has cooled off. I replaced the distributor thinking it was the hall sensor, I replaced the ignition coil pack, replaced the spark plugs, and replaced the wires. The fuel pump and fuel filter have also been replaced within the past couple of months. Could it be anything with an o2 sensor or coolant temperature sensor? Does anybody have any sort of idea as to what could be happening here or have had the same issue before?

 

Anything will help.

Edited March 23, 2019 by Popeye775

[Keyo 47]

Hey Guys,

 

I'm starting a new thread because my other issue got solved haha. So, my G60 is having a major problem. It won't stay on for more than 8 minutes without shutting off and not turning back on until it has cooled off. I replaced the distributor thinking it was the hall sensor, I replaced the ignition coil pack, replaced the spark plugs, and replaced the wires. The fuel pump and fuel filter have also been replaced within the past couple of months. Could it be anything with an o2 sensor or coolant temperature sensor? Does anybody have any sort of idea as to what could be happening here or have had the same issue before?

 

 

 

Anything will help.

 

The blue temp sensor for the ECU is only a £15 part you might as well change it and see if that cures it, I believe the part number is

025906041A , look on the link below it is item 13 on diagram so you can locate it in your engine bay , easy part to get hold of see if you can buy it as a package with the o ring and clip. Obviously the coolant can escape when you change it, so condsider a coolant change and make sure you use OE coolant or prepare for spillage and change with coolant in the sytem and be quick. .

 

Also might be worth changing ECU control relay + Fuel Relay found in the fuse box.

 

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/USA/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/919/subcategory/212000/part_id/0/lang/e#sec_13

Edited March 23, 2019 by Keyo

[Popeye775 16]

The blue temp sensor for the ECU is only a £15 part you might as well change it and see if that cures it, I believe the part number is

025906041A , look on the link below it is item 13 on diagram so you can locate it in your engine bay , easy part to get hold of see if you can buy it as a package with the o ring and clip. Obviously the coolant can escape when you change it, so condsider a coolant change and make sure you use OE coolant or prepare for spillage and change with coolant in the sytem and be quick. .

 

Also might be worth changing ECU control relay + Fuel Relay found in the fuse box.

 

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/USA/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/919/subcategory/212000/part_id/0/lang/e#sec_13

 

I changed the coolant temperature sensor and that didn't do anything. It still does the same thing sadly. I also checked to see if it was the o2 sensor but that wasn't it either. I am curious if it is the ECU control relay now or the starter solenoid. It just dies and won't turn back on until it is cooled down. I have also not taken it on a drive with it being like this, I just let it sit and idle for a while to see if it is going to die again or not. How could I check if this was the control relay?

Edited March 24, 2019 by Popeye775

[Keyo 47]

I changed the coolant temperature sensor and that didn't do anything. It still does the same thing sadly. I also checked to see if it was the o2 sensor but that wasn't it either. I am curious if it is the ECU control relay now or the starter solenoid. It just dies and won't turn back on until it is cooled down. I have also not taken it on a drive with it being like this, I just let it sit and idle for a while to see if it is going to die again or not. How could I check if this was the control relay?

 

Not sure how you would check that to be honest, although when you scan the ecu you will hear the relay clicking. . Have you scanned the vehicle for faults if not I would make this your first port of call. I use my car as a daily so I changed my fuel and Ecu relay as a preventive measure as when I pulled the original ones out and had a look at them they had a manufacture date of 1995 stamped on them so thought sod it for £30 I will change them . When you said you checked the 02 sensor which is the prime suspect how did you check it ? Did you also check the o2 harness is in good working condition.

Edited March 24, 2019 by Keyo

[Dox 23]

When it wont start you need to see if there's a spark and if fuel is actually injected into the cylinder - wet plugs when removed soon after extended cranking.

 

 

In the UK if we say a car wont crank it means the starter doesn't turn the engine over at all. What you have is cranks but wont start - 99% of us here are UK based.

[Popeye775 16]

Not sure how you would check that to be honest, although when you scan the ecu you will hear the relay clicking. . Have you scanned the vehicle for faults if not I would make this your first port of call. I use my car as a daily so I changed my fuel and Ecu relay as a preventive measure as when I pulled the original ones out and had a look at them they had a manufacture date of 1995 stamped on them so thought sod it for £30 I will change them . When you said you checked the 02 sensor which is the prime suspect how did you check it ? Did you also check the o2 harness is in good working condition.

 

I checked the o2 sensor just by unplugging it as a whole and letting the car run to see if that had any effect on the stalling. It had no effect what-so-ever on the car stalling so I figure that the o2 sensor and the wiring harness would be completely fine since nothing changed with it unplugged. I figure with it unplugged it won't be able to change to closed once the car is warmed up, it'll have to stay open. The car would run lean of course but it shouldn't have stalled if the o2 sensor or the wiring harness were the problem I would think.

[Dox 23]

It would have no effect if the sensor was open circuit (blown) and then you unplugged it?

 

My only experience with lamdbas was a Volvo 740 I bought that the previous owner decatted it and just let the sensor plugged in under the bonnet, the car failed its annual inspection because it ran rich, not lean.

 

 

 

When you're checking sensors its also a good idea to check the plug connections to for corrosion or maybe that the pins have pushed back so the fail to make a connection with the sensor.

[Popeye775 16]

Ok so here is where it is at. The fuel pump is really hard to hear in general so I don't know if that is the issue or not. I am going to get a new relay and replace it anyways just for precaution. I got the car started and got it to run for a constant 20 minutes. For the first ten minutes I would give it some throttle every so often, and for the second half of that I just let it run by itself and it ran perfectly fine. I then shut it off and tried to start it a couple minutes later with no luck at all. I did however feel the relay for the ECU and it felt extremely warm compared to all the other relays. All the other ones weren't even warm at all. Could this be an issue with the relay getting too hot and not allowing the car to turn back on because it could be collapsing the magnetic field? Or could this still be something else?

[Dox 23]

For an engine to run you need,

 

A spark

 

Fuel injected into the cylinder

 

Compression

 

And it all need to be timed correctly

 

It starts from cold, so I doubt the last two are an issue, so when it won’t start find out what’s missing?

[Popeye775 16]

Do you think that there is any chance of the relay getting overheated and causing the car to not be able to turn back on once it shuts off? I also do need to check the compression just to rule that out as well. But when I try to start it up again it just sounds like it isn't getting gas. It sounds like it is out of gas when I know it has gas. It is sparking and everything just fine from the sound of it. Fuel pump relay?? Or maybe even injector wiring? I figure that it wouldn't turn on at all or wouldn't run very well if the car had a bad injector but I could be wrong haha.

[Keyo 47]

Do you think that there is any chance of the relay getting overheated and causing the car to not be able to turn back on once it shuts off? I also do need to check the compression just to rule that out as well. But when I try to start it up again it just sounds like it isn't getting gas. It sounds like it is out of gas when I know it has gas. It is sparking and everything just fine from the sound of it. Fuel pump relay?? Or maybe even injector wiring? I figure that it wouldn't turn on at all or wouldn't run very well if the car had a bad injector but I could be wrong haha.

 

Have you had the ecu scanned for faults yet ????

[Popeye775 16]

Have you had the ecu scanned for faults yet ????

 

It’s going to the mechanic either this week or next week to get scanned and have everything further investigated

[Bauhaus 3]

It’s going to the mechanic either this week or next week to get scanned and have everything further investigated

 

The G60 ECU can not be scanned, not with VAGCOM anyway, but there is a two pin connector under the "shifter" gear lever housing that when conected to a home made LED and resistor device will output a sequence of flashes to indicate a problem.

Everything discused in this thread should of cleared it up, but check the injector wiring harness for breaks and good plug connections as heat expansion can cause a connection issue giving a fuel delivery problem.

[Simeon 0]

Pretty sure there's an adapter in the Ross Tech cable kit to connect to the two pins on a G60

[Keyo 47]

Pretty sure there's an adapter in the Ross Tech cable kit to connect to the two pins on a G60

 

Same here I thought you could buy an adaptor .

[Bauhaus 3]

Yes.. its this cable..

 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html

[Popeye775 16]

Hey guys! Thanks for all the replies, I am out of town until Friday and then I will be able to try all of this out!

[SteveM 10]

I had a similar problem on a 1993 B3 Passat VR6 estate years ago.

It didn't actually cut out whilst driving, but occasionally if I turned the car off after driving a while, it would refuse to restart until it had cooled down. In frustration one night, I booted the underside of the dashboard whilst I was cranking the car, and it fired up.

Turns out the ECU relay was getting hot and the coils inside expanding to the point that they would no longer operate until things cooled down.

Until the new relay arrived, I just used to flick the top of the relay whilst cranking the engine and it would fire up 👍

[Popeye775 16]

Hey Steve! So my relay actually gets extremely warm as well! I just replaced the relay and am going to see on Friday if that was the problem.

[Popeye775 16]

Hey guys! Just wanted to give a quick update: I replaced both - the fuel pump and ECU - relays and the car has been doing really well! I have been driving the crap out of it since replacing them and - knock on wood - it hasn't stalled on me, and starts right up. I really hope that this was the fix it needed! Thank you all for the help