Storm Warning 0 Posted April 19, 2020 Hi all, I tried to start my VR6 today without joy. It ran ok a year ago and has stood in the garage since. Now a relay click and nothing else, no effort to crank. Battery tested and fine, relays appear to be working, fuses seem good. The MFA doesn't appear to work - just shows time, can't click through. believe fuel gauge also not working, Also don't think the warning lights on instrument panel working either (these could be a resistor on the panel and unrelated) Interestingly, I have tried two port readers, neither can connect to the car with key in position 2. The car has a Toad i606 alarm, it arms disarms, so don't think that. VW key immobilizer... if that goes would that let me use all the electrics and still get a the ecu relay click? I know this is like a needle in a haystack ... I've looked around for answers and had been in ownership for approaching 20 years and this has confused me 🙂 just trying to make the haystack smaller! thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted April 19, 2020 Could be immobilized but with everything else Not working, I would suggest giving the battery a good charge if it hasn't been used in such a long time. It may show 12v but not have any umph left in it The immobiliser would click but all electrics should work normally. Have you ever changed the ignition switch? Not the key part, the electric switching bit below it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted April 19, 2020 Do you have a daily vehicle that you could swap the battery out of just to try it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm Warning 0 Posted April 19, 2020 I've left the battery on charge so will try again and put a jump pack on too. Just seems odd I can't get a code reader to connect anymore. I've never changed anything on the car - I bought as a bit of a project but more as a template for putting my storm back together one day! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm Warning 0 Posted April 19, 2020 Battery was new not long before it was stored but didn't think to put on a trickle charger as wasn't planning on leaving so long 🙂 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted April 19, 2020 How have you tested the battery? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted April 20, 2020 Get a fully charged battery in it as a first port of call - immobilisers will act funny if there is not enough juice in the system - that should let you troubleshoot from there. I find my battery, admittedly 2 years old now, will go flat in about 3-4 weeks of no use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm Warning 0 Posted April 20, 2020 Well, good news if that I have got it started. I'm not 100% sure if was just the battery as I inspected and reseated a few relays, battery readings were the same as before. Was a bit lumpy to start with but ok. Next issue is the instrument cluster doesn't work (time and mileage shows but that's it) and I can't get a code reader to connect at all - perhaps relates... oh and brake pedal goes to the floor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted April 20, 2020 Good news on it starting. Like fendervg says, these do drain the cranking capacity very quickly. My car is permanently connected to a trickle charger with a quick release plug set up. I haven't experienced the cluster not working, but I would suggest checking the plugs in the back are seated correctly. Brake pedal to the floor.... check the slave cylinder at the gearbox. You can get seals and do a cheap repair. The give away sign for me was the brake fluid that was on the floor under the gearbox. On removing the slave cylinder it was immediately obvious. So probably worth checking you have brake fluid in the reservoir and bleed the whole system through. Good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted April 20, 2020 Slave cylinder on the gear box end is for the clutch. If it's a right hand drive car the brake master will be just in front of the brake servo assembly with the reservoir on top - it also feeds the clutch master via a small pipe from the side. You could have a leak or corroded pipe somewhere in the system or the seals have gone somewhere - probably worth bleeding the whole lot with a good pressure bleeder with some cardboard under the car to see what's what. The dash clocks is weird - could be the wiring, or the voltage regulator on the back of the clocks maybe. Is it the MFA functions (mpg, oil temp etc.) that don't work or also the rev counter and coolant/fuel analogue gauges? If it's just the MFA, I think it's possible to ge a replacement unit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm Warning 0 Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the tips guys. I've already found a load of connections hanging out of the back of the fuse box to identify, going to check for bad earths first as the clocks were working when parked up. The nothing works on the instrument panel except shows time and mileage. No warning lights or dials working. No MFA. Also unable to establish connection to read faults. Last MOT (a long time ago) highlighted brake pipe corrosion so first suspect is one of those has finally popped. Edited April 21, 2020 by Storm Warning Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted April 22, 2020 There are a fair few spare plugs at the back of the fuse box. Mostly for options and/or other country requirements. Can't remember off the too of my head which ones, but someone may have it all on show and can advise. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
