Twilight Violet VR6

[_Matt_ 26]

And I'm sure everyone loves a "before" shot of the rear beam:

My next headache will be getting this bolt out from a spare subframe i'd like to get powdercoated. Any ideas welcomes, I have tried heat (the hot stuff in the yellow bottle), welding a nut on the end. No joy. Both sides are the same. 

And lastly a pic of the car before i started working on it. 
 

[ChrisL 15]

Cant see the pictures mate

[Cressa 44]

I cant either!!

[_Matt_ 26]

Doh! Thanks both. I'll edit the posts and will re-do. 

[Cressa 44]

Pictures sorted, well done. Loving the state of it. I'm disappointed with some powder coating I've had done as rust has come through. I had the front panel redone  with a nylon coating that seems better but was twice the cost.

Where exactly is the swine bolt, I cant work it out. It will all look great though when done.

I have a bushing tool if you need to borrow one , but I think you may be sorted. Here if you need it and I'm happy to post

[ChrisL 15]

Powder coating isn’t the correct way for the chassis parts, if you get a chip then the water gets behind and rusts it. You are better with a blast and paint system with correct primer etc.

can you drill the stud out? Start with a small drill in the centre and work up in sizes? Get some WD40 in there too

[_Matt_ 26]

Yeah i debated what to do with Powder Coating. I had a chat with the place that did it and they have put a zinc primer on and a "nylon" powder coating. They did a great job vs stuff I've had done elsewhere in the past. They even cleaned out the screw threads and have coated in areas missed on previous stuff (like behind the anti roll bar on the rear beam is all coated where as that was missed/light on the last place).

The snapped bolts are on the front subframe/front wishbone bolt. The trouble I'll have with drilling out is a normal sized drill bit won't reach from the hole with smaller drill bits. Worth a try though.

 

 

[_Matt_ 26]

On 4/13/2024 at 8:23 PM, Cressa said:

I have a bushing tool if you need to borrow one , but I think you may be sorted. Here if you need it and I'm happy to post

Thank you. If i hate the powerflex bushes I may jsut take you up on that! That was another area I debated on what route to take. My last one I went new rubber and was happy. A couple of local guys went Powerflex and were happy and I chatted to Vince when it was in for chains etc and he said go OEM front wishbone, R32 rubber rear wishbone and Powerflex rear Axle if modifying the suspension anyway. As they are a piece of cake to fit I thought I'd give it a go.

[Wild-Animal 0]

The big issue I have with the powder coating is the prep work - how well they blast the items. Back in the day. I grit blasted my own front subframe, it took a lot of work with the grit blaster to remove the pitted rust. This was a industrial grit blaster that was the size of a room. I then Zinga ( Zinc based paint) painted it, primed, then top coated. On a properly grit blasted surface, the Zinga adheres really well, recomend it. The powder coating will also be good, if the surface is prepped properly. I reckon a lot of places will only give rusty parts a light blasting.
 

[_Matt_ 26]

Updates, I just need to put the wheels back and do a string alignment and car is ready for MOT. Runs out on 12 May. There are couple of jobs to sort in the near future (fuel pump, waiting on the sender from classics and the wiper mech is pretty loose). 

Summary of jobs done over the last year, car has has done less than 200 miles in that time 😞. It is almost ready to be used at last: 

Engine Bay:

Timing chains, head refurb, 263 cams, clutch serviced etc at Stealth

Replaced Aux water pump with a Bosch unit

Lower hose coolant pipe

Injectors refurbished

Brake booster sensor fixed

New coilpack + spacer mod

Bosch CPS sensor 

Oil pressure sensors + sender for cubby console dials

New fuel lines, filter etc

Chassis

Front end:

New wishbones with R32 bushes

Inner and outer track rods

Ball joints

Top mounts

Rebuilt hubs with new bearnings, abs sensor and rings

New discs and pads on stock calipers. May upgrade in the future. They look crap in the pic as were done 200 miles ago.

Koni TA + H&R springs

Rear end:

Refurbished the rear beam with all new parts and brake lines, regulator and handbrake cables. Went for mk4 rear calipers. Discs pads and bearings were done 200 miles ago.

Koni TA + H&R springs 

Powerflex rear axle bushes

 

Body

It's in pretty good shape having had a windows out paint job in its life. New rubber trims etc were all installed back then.  I had 3 door dings pulled out and there were 2 little scabs of rust I took back ot metal and touched in. 

Box sections and sills have been treated to Bilt Hamber cavity wax

Underside at the rear end I have cleaned up as much as I could be bothered and sorted out any areas where underseal was failing with back to metal, treated, zinc rich primer, gravitex by brush. 

Stainless tank straps

Next steps

Get it back on its wheels, wash it and drive before MOT runs out in case of any teething issues. Use for summer.

Winter 2024

Perhaps front brakes as have 288s here already, refresh rad support and cross member (both in great condition currently though so may be not). Mocol oil cooler? PAS lines? Dunno we'll see. MIght not, the plan with the car was to do what was needed and make a nice useable example. 

Will get some pics of it when it is out of the garage.

 

 

[Cressa 44]

1 hour ago, _Matt_ said:

Updates, I just need to put the wheels back and do a string alignment and car is ready for MOT. Runs out on 12 May. There are couple of jobs to sort in the near future (fuel pump, waiting on the sender from classics and the wiper mech is pretty loose). 

Summary of jobs done over the last year, car has has done less than 200 miles in that time 😞. It is almost ready to be used at last: 

Engine Bay:

Timing chains, head refurb, 263 cams, clutch serviced etc at Stealth

Replaced Aux water pump with a Bosch unit

Lower hose coolant pipe

Injectors refurbished

Brake booster sensor fixed

New coilpack + spacer mod

Bosch CPS sensor 

Oil pressure sensors + sender for cubby console dials

New fuel lines, filter etc

Chassis

Front end:

New wishbones with R32 bushes

Inner and outer track rods

Ball joints

Top mounts

Rebuilt hubs with new bearnings, abs sensor and rings

New discs and pads on stock calipers. May upgrade in the future. They look crap in the pic as were done 200 miles ago.

Koni TA + H&R springs

Rear end:

Refurbished the rear beam with all new parts and brake lines, regulator and handbrake cables. Went for mk4 rear calipers. Discs pads and bearings were done 200 miles ago.

Koni TA + H&R springs 

Powerflex rear axle bushes

 

Body

It's in pretty good shape having had a windows out paint job in its life. New rubber trims etc were all installed back then.  I had 3 door dings pulled out and there were 2 little scabs of rust I took back ot metal and touched in. 

Box sections and sills have been treated to Bilt Hamber cavity wax

Underside at the rear end I have cleaned up as much as I could be bothered and sorted out any areas where underseal was failing with back to metal, treated, zinc rich primer, gravitex by brush. 

Stainless tank straps

Next steps

Get it back on its wheels, wash it and drive before MOT runs out in case of any teething issues. Use for summer.

Winter 2024

Perhaps front brakes as have 288s here already, refresh rad support and cross member (both in great condition currently though so may be not). Mocol oil cooler? PAS lines? Dunno we'll see. MIght not, the plan with the car was to do what was needed and make a nice useable example. 

Will get some pics of it when it is out of the garage.

 

 

Getting close, so well done. And  change the brakes later, just get it out and enjoy it.

It owes you 👌

[_Matt_ 26]

Finally out of the garage ready for a test drive.. and a wash.

 

[ChrisL 15]

Looks superb, really like that colour

[Cressa 44]

Definitely needs a wash 😂

[_Matt_ 26]

ha yes it filthy dusty. The colour is nice in the sun. I am about to go wash it and take it for it's first spin. 

I had a hell of a time bleeding the brakes. I roped my wife in to assist in the end and we followed the Bentley to the T. I have a pressure bleeder and could not get all the air out on my own (5 attempts). 

I am still not sure if i have it all out, pedal is nowhere near as firm as the modern cars I am now used to driving however it maybe that i have just forgotten what 30 year old brake design feels like. Pedal doesn't sink and it stops fine on the drive, just more travel than my modern cars.  

[_Matt_ 26]

Yep need to bleed again. It is a real bugger - using a pressure bleeder and someone pumping the pedal. I've also done the master cylinder, abs pump and clutch 4 times. I did let the fluid drain out when working on the rear though.

Brakes work fine just too much pedal travel and can hear the hiss of air when pressing pedal. Job for my wife tonight 😄 

 

[ChrisL 15]

18 hours ago, _Matt_ said:

Yep need to bleed again. It is a real bugger - using a pressure bleeder and someone pumping the pedal. I've also done the master cylinder, abs pump and clutch 4 times. I did let the fluid drain out when working on the rear though.

Brakes work fine just too much pedal travel and can hear the hiss of air when pressing pedal. Job for my wife tonight 😄 

 

I’m having similar bleeding problems mate. Going to attack again on Saturday 

[_Matt_ 26]

They are a bugger. Pete A is also suffering with this job as well.

Going to do master cylinder and calipers again today.

Bentley says 20 pumps of pedal, press and hold with ignition on for no more than 120 seconds whilst bleeding rears. Same procedure if using a pressure bleeder too which I am.

Same again for the front but no ignition.

I also pin the regulator to fully open as easy to do with fresh bolts/new regulator.

[oneohtwo 8]

I used one of those easy bleeder kits which actually seemed to work OK, except I forgot to bleed the master cylinder so the brakes still didn't work. I'd hope if I had done that as well it would have been OK. In fairness two separate garages missed it as well. Not a pleasant job though!

[ChrisL 15]

1 hour ago, _Matt_ said:

They are a bugger. Pete A is also suffering with this job as well.

Going to do master cylinder and calipers again today.

Bentley says 20 pumps of pedal, press and hold with ignition on for no more than 120 seconds whilst bleeding rears. Same procedure if using a pressure bleeder too which I am.

Same again for the front but no ignition.

I also pin the regulator to fully open as easy to do with fresh bolts/new regulator.

I don’t get the whole 120seconds for the ABS pump as it’s on all the time when the car is running.

not sure why you need it on for rears and off for fronts also.

my system was completely dry when i started bleeding and when I opened the rear nipples with the ignition off I was still getting fluid out easily.

assuming for the compensator, you just undo the bolt and push it closed?

[_Matt_ 26]

Yeah same re fluid - it just flows out with pressure bleeder attached and soon filled up the dry lines. I did 4/5 times on my own with the pressure bleeder and pumping pedal before hand. When my wife helped me out I did see some more bubbles when she was pressing the pedal. There was also a big air bubble from the master cylinder. The brakes are a lot better since I got my wife to help and the car stops okay but there is just more pedal travel and i can hear air when i pump the pedal. 

My system was just empty for the rears as haven't touched the fronts this time around. Perhaps that it is why the car is braking ok as no air in the fronts. 

Yes on the Regulator i set the bolt so it was fully open. I will try this time with leaving it in the half way position. I'm also going to bleed out say 500mls of fluid from each rear caliper and make double sure my wife keeps foot pressed down on brake whilst i do up the bleed nipples to rule out sucking air back in. When she helped me we didn't do the master cylinder, perhaps there is still air in there.

Do you know if there is a order to it - i.e. do master cyl first and then calipers (furthers from MC and rotate) or vice versa? Also the drivers rear caliper is surely the furthest from the MC by pipework length so i have been starting there rather than the passenger side.

 

 

[ChrisL 15]

That sounds correct, rears then fronts then ABS then master cylinder I think

[tonedef 8]

I have got, and also had various levels of success with the pressure bleeder, the easibleed, and a vacuum pump. But still seem to end up with the wife sat in the driving seat pumping the pedal (and generally complaining about the cold!) while I go around the callipers etc with a spanner doing the down-up-down-etc.

It still ends up with decent brakes but crap pedal no matter what, but I’ve always found that after leaving it two or three days another round will cure the pedal.

Got to say though, since fitting the Teves 20 system it’s been much easier. It has an auto bleed sequence with it although I’m not convinced that does much other than waste loads of fluid!

[_Matt_ 26]

Teves 20 was on my to do list but not sure I want to go that far. The mk3 16v I had for a little while was a piece of cake to bleed.

I had my wife out again before kids bedtime and we had another go. We didn't do master cylinder yesterday and there was a lot of air. Did it 3 times.

The rears and drivers side were bubble free but oddly the passenger side front that has been bleeding fairly clear bled dirty fluid. 

Wife has gone to bed so another try tomorrow but there must be some sort of air blockage or something somewhere. 

The pedal did get rock hard after bleeding but when I turned the car on the pedal went softer again, which if I recall is normal but still feels soft. Though to be honest I no longer know what is normal! Perhaps I will leave it and use to see what happens....

 

[tonedef 8]

I’ve long suspected the abs pump to be the root cause of all the problems, there can be no other part of the system that could essentially store dirty fluid to be released at a later stage, put fluid in at one end of a pipe and it’s got to come out the other.

I wouldn’t recommend Teves 20 just as an answer to a soft pedal, it’s way too much trouble for that, getting the loom through the bulkhead behind the Climatronic system took days! I had abs problems at the time too so decided to take the plunge.

Maybe using it for a few days will be the answer, just a pain having to get it all jacked up and wheels off again to bleed it.