schrick question.

[Robbo149 0]

I'm going thru the same mid C crisis at the mo Jedi. I've spent around 2 grand on it in the last year & there are still annoying bits & bats to sort! Do I sell now or keep spending?!! I change my mind on a daily basis (usually a good blast in the C convinces me to keep it, & then something else will stop working!) Anyway I can't make up my mind what I'd get next if I do get rid. I've got a little Mk4 Polo 20v turbo project that keeps rearing it's ugly head :wink:

 

Cheers,

Robbo

[jedi-knight83 0]

kevhaywire, ha.....sounds like whoever buys your car from you (if you ever sell) will get the best corrado on the road!!

 

thing is i dont really have much spare money at present...most is going into savings for when / if i move. whats the dynamat stuff??? just sound insulation? did you put it everywhere?

 

i think if i can sort the chains out i'll be happy with it again.....i think the best thing is to take the £500 i would have spent on that schrick and just get the engine running nice!!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Jedi, I hope so but I have no plans to sell it in the forseeable future and even when I have the funds available for a newer car, I'll probably keep the C as a second car because it's received 18 months solid effort and investment.

 

I know you won't believe me, but if there is some part of you that still fancies the Corrado, then the effort really is worth it. But I suppose it all boils down to money at the end of the day.

 

I don't have vast amounts of surplus cash either. 80% of the Corrado work was paid for on Credit card and I now have the lovely task of paying it all off, but I'll have a nice car in the meantime. I do pay a massive amount each month onto the card though, so it'll be cleared in no time, providing I resist those BBS LMs :wink:

 

Dynamat is a kind of bitumen sheeting which layers the car's metal work, almost like a second skin if you like.

 

I've layered it everywhere in the doors and the entire boot floor and rear arches. I'll be doing behind the rear quarters too when I get time. It makes one heck of a difference to the overall refinement and feel of the car. I've replaced broken and missing clips as I went along and it's about 85% back to feeling new and rattle free again.

 

As for you, I don't feel you were ever 100% happy parting with your CRX. You really loved that car. Maybe going back to one again isn't such a bad idea? More reliable, comparable speed, similar handling etc?

[jedi-knight83 0]

kevhaywire, maybe i'll give that dynamat a try?? where did you get it and how did you manage to get it on the inside of the door? do you mean you just put it over the plastic sheeting? it would be a mamoth task to get itbehind the window mech and actually direct onto the inside of the door skin!! is it relatively cheap?? i think your right and it would make a huge difference to have a nice refinded car.

 

i did like the crx mainly cause it was a nice finshed project. i think the handling was better than the C but the midrange couldnt compare.

 

as im going off topic in my own thread already.... :-P

 

how much for the chain work do you think? £700-£800??

how much for the dynamatting to do behind doors and all of the boot?

my oil was running at 114 degrees last night and i wasnt really pushing it..only about 90mph or so. is this a huge problem? i know its due for a change soon anyway

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dynamat is silly money. As a good compromise, I used flashing tape from B&Q. It's a grey water dispersant on one side and semi-hardening bitument type material on the other. It's made by Aquaseal and comes in 10M rolls in various widths. Prices vary from £5 to £12, depending on roll size. I did the whole boot with 1 roll of 6" wide, so about £6!!

 

Behind the doors, yep I meant on the actual door skin and also on the interior metalword of the door that the membrane sticks to. It's not as hard as you think once the membrane is off.

 

It does make it refined. A noisy, rattley car is what frustrates most drivers at the end of the day!

 

Chain work including a clutch, probably somewhere around the £700 mark.

 

Dynamatting the boot, doors, rear arches, rear 1/4s - probably about £15 - £20 if you use the B&Q stuff. 10 times that if you use proper Dynamat!

 

My oil ran at 114K when I first got it at similar speeds, so I stuck the Mocal on. Yours could be due to a dodgy thermostat not opening properly or an air lock etc. Even non Mocal'd VRs rarely go over 100 on part throttle, so it's coolant related.

[jedi-knight83 0]

so is it sticky on one side ?? or did you use your spiderweb subtance?? :lol:

 

hmm, i'll have to have a look behind the door cards again.

 

i dont have a mocal so which thermostat do you mean and what would it open? is it easy to drain all the coolant and put fresh stuff in without airlocks? was running at 108 degrees round town just now

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I used my Spidey web as glue :lol:

 

Nah it's self adhesive. You roller it onto the panels with one of those small rollers for pressing wallpaper borders onto walls.

 

The thermostat is in the stat housing behind the rad fan on the block/head, more or less below the coilpack. When mine was running at 114 deg, I took the stat out and put it in boiling water and found it was intermittantly jamming.

 

Replacing that and a coolant refresh will drop your temps. If you pour the coolant in through the radiator top hose, you'll not get any air locks.

[dr_mat 0]

Just my 2p on the oil temp side - my VR will run it's oil temp to 110 - 114 at those kind of motorway speeds, always has for the two years I've owned it, and I refuse to worry about that aswell! Too much other stuff to fix!!

Too right about the rattles - that's what gets you down. Mine needs a load of trim rattles sorting (did anyone come up with a cheap reliable way of stopping the windows rattling when open?!), but I just don't get the time. Too busy saving up for a steering rack or an ABS pump! (Hey, Asim! You still got that 2nd hand one?)

I mean, I even have a badly rattly passenger seat adjuster knob?! How can *that* get loose?!

[jedi-knight83 0]

is there a usefull guide to changing the coolant??

 

so you can get the roller behind the gubbins on the door to the door skin!! more room than i thought.

[jedi-knight83 0]

I mean, I even have a badly rattly passenger seat adjuster knob?! How can *that* get loose?!

 

ha, i have a squeeky passenger seat....i think its cause i took my lardy dad for a drive once :roll: open window rattle is a pain.....just wrap the who car inside and out in dynamat.....that'll solve it :lol:

[dinkus 10]

is there a usefull guide to changing the coolant??

 

I don't know of one, but I'm sure there must be something on here... if you find it/do it please can you take some pictures for the how-to section?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah I've managed to get my windows rattle free. Even when the windows are bottomed out, no clonks when the doors are closed 8)

 

I've found the following key areas that cause this :-

 

1) Bottom half of the front rubber channel pops off the metal guide - Cure = Glue it on.

2) Missing/worn felt pad on side impact beam - Cure = Stick some on

3) Badly fitted outer weather strip - Cure = replace weather seal and ensure it butts tightly up to the glass

4) Badly fitted inner seal (top of door card) - Cure = Make sure door card is fitted properly and tightly. The plastic strip next to the lock plunger should be tight against the glass.

5) Rear runner's plastic guide not attached to the glass - Cure = Bond it one with Sikaflex

6) Bodged wiring slapping against the glass - Cure = Sort it!

 

Anybody on the Audioscape GB would be wise to check all these areas when they get the oppurtunity.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I mean, I even have a badly rattly passenger seat adjuster knob?! How can *that* get loose?!

 

ha, i have a squeeky passenger seat....i think its cause i took my lardy dad for a drive once :roll: open window rattle is a pain.....just wrap the who car inside and out in dynamat.....that'll solve it :lol:

 

My passenger seat rattles too, but only at certain angles. I've pinpointed the cause and yep, dynamat will cure it. Only joking! I've started dynamatting my house now as I've clearly got a fetish for the stuff :lol:

[dinkus 10]

My passenger seat rattles too, but only at certain angles. I've pinpointed the cause and yep, dynamat will cure it. Only joking! I've started dynamatting my house now as I've clearly got a fetish for the stuff :lol:

 

It now explains the need for the Shrick... you've put so much sodding dynamat in your C it now needs the Shrick to get back up to the same power:weight as a standard one :lol:

[jedi-knight83 0]

so on yet another off topic subject..... whats your mpg now with the schrick and the TB etc kev??

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dinkus, I need the 268 cams aswell to restore the power - weight back to standard :lol:

 

Jedi, mpg with throttle body, Schrick and AMD remap is err.....same as standard! 26mpg at 85-90 and 30-33 crusing at 65...... It is much better around town as you don't need as many revs joining roundabouts and pulling out junctions etc..... with the Shrek I rarely go over 5000rpm....there's no need to. But I will I'm sure be at 7,200 all the time when the 268s are on :lol: