making a 16v juicer

[boab 0]

ive decided to keep my 16v and get the engine done, i was wondering what is best way to increase power and what sort of mods need done, ive been told before but i deleted the msg, and also a rough cost of stuff that could be done

[slot 0]

If you have already done the most common mods, exhaust , air filter etc

There's the i few different options like cam's , flowed head , chip !

Not sure about the performance gain's v's the cost , i was told when i had my 2.0 16v dont expect to many horse's !! (Bhp)

Hope some off this help's !! :wink:

[randal 0]

From reading posts on here, Stealth can apparently get 150bhp out of a 16V lump without any additonal bolt on mods. I think they alter the fuel pressure, and tweak timing etc.. etc.. I'm sure if you call Vince at Stealth Racing he'll be more than happy to explain how they do it. IIRC it's not overly pricey either. :D

[boab 0]

what happens when u totally rebuild the engine and get it back to good condition, also what parts can u upgrade

[randal 0]

As Slot said upgrades for the valver are -

 

Filter

Exhaust

flowed/ported head

cams

 

Can't really see any gains from a chip, as the valvers are mechanical (

 

Engine rebuilds normally entail new valves, guides, stems, oil seals in the head. This gives you the perfect opportunity to drop those new fast road cams in... Not 100% sure on the bottom end, but I'd presume new pistons, piston rings end bearings etc.. etc..

 

In addition, you might want to drop John (16VG60 on here) a private message. He runs JMR racing, and from a personal view and experience from others on here - he's highly recommended.

 

HTH

randal

[Henny 0]

have a look in THIS THREAD there's some excellent info in there... 8)

[aide 0]

Stealth Mod is called WUR mod, something about drilling the fuel regulator for about £50 - always seemed a bit dodgy to me though :?

 

As mentioned above, tried and tested methods: -

K&N panel filter - £40ish

Enlarged throttle body - £100ish depending where you get it done

50mm inlet if car hasn't already got - £50ish

Gasflowed head - £200ish

or

Ported & polished head - £400ish

Wilder cams, or mod exhaust to inlet - £60

Less restrictive exhaust downpipe from G60 or bespoke - £200ish

Full stainless system - some good deals about but usually £400+

Get a 2 litre bottom end, 9a, ABF or 6a codes - these all have their own peculiarities but ancillaries 'nearly' same.

 

I'm currently 6 mods down on the list above, hoping to reach into 180's or above when all done but will need a stand alone fuel system as well me thinks :D

 

Do a search, there's tonnes of past links like this 8)

[aide 0]

there's some excellent info in there... 8)

 

ahhhhhh the :notworthy: webber fire breather :notworthy: forgot about that one

[Henny 0]

I may be selling my brand new one of these soon... keep an eye on the for sale threads... ;) :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The WUR (Warm Up Regulator) mod isn't dodgy. The drilling is required to get at the screw that lives behind the brass globe at the back of the Control pressure regulator......and that's all I'm saying on the subject :wink:

 

Don't forget to add a vernier cam wheel and K star to the list of mods..... they make a big difference, especially to the engine's drivability. I would keep the 42mm manifold to be honest....

 

K

[Mike Edwards 0]

Keep the standard inlet. The larger inlet means more power at high revs at the expense of any go at lower revs.

 

Kent GF1602R cams are worthwhile along with a panel filter and free-flowing exhaust.

 

Mine has yet to have the Stealth treatment, but I might be tempted to try it before selling the car.

[coullstar 0]

I will hopefully be able to tell you what the dual exhaust cam is like this weekend. Should be finished by lunchtime tomorrow. So it either smiles or bent valves!! :lol:

 

Ive had the filter, drilled airbox and exhaust since I bought it so dont know if they make any difference. The 16v really need a good number of the mentioned mods to make a difference.

[flusted 0]

Stick with standard inlet manifold as said above.If you go for flowed head get a 4branch while your there.

Be careful if you go cam route as i know lots of people that have spents £500+ on cams and cars have felt crap afterwards so they went back to standard cams

[Mike Edwards 0]

Thats why I recommended the GF1602R - a mild change in profile for less than £200.

 

Plus you get to spit flames out of the exhaust on over-run... :D