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  1. Today
  2. Hi all, after a rocker cover stud for an 8v - N10186301 Anyone got one spare? Sent using Tapatalk
  3. [emoji106] [email protected] Sent using Tapatalk
  4. Cressa, I've got a spare check valve for the fuel line if you haven't got one. Send me your address and I'll pop it in the post to you. Its one of the alloy ones. Should be a pic in my build thread. Hasan
  5. Yesterday
  6. Not me mate i just changed the feed line from filter to bay and the soft hoses on the on the end of the hard lines - take it you have changed out your fpr if you have had fuelling issues - did you leave e 5 or e 10 in the car mate. If this helps this is the fuel line for ends. External . In regards to fuelling old cars- new pump - fpr- lines- and get injectors cleaned - fuel relay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382558389619 These are the clamps I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132124984649 Fuel lines internal tank (sitting in fuel ) let me know and i will dig that out to if needs be.
  7. Sorry yes, should explain! The cables should be fine, it's the usb plug on the laptop that needs adjusting. Assuming it is Windows 10 you need to open the Device Manager (easy enough to search for it in the search bar next to the windows button). Then you need to look for "Ports (COM & LPT)" in the long list. As an added complication it might be hidden so go to the menus at the top: View - Show Hidden Devices. Once Ports is visible click on the arrow next to it to see a list of USB ports "USB Serial Port (COM...)" and whichever one you have plugged your VCDS cable into should be visible. Right click on it and select Properties, then the "Port Settings" tab at the top, then click on Advanced. A settings box should pop up and there is an option for Latency Time (msec). Select a lower number for this. I put mine to 5 and it seemed to work with VCDS ok. I had a valve fitted recently, but don't know the size. It hasn't made any difference that I can tell so I am not sure I'd bother... the only thing it did do was leak fuel everywhere at the new joint!
  8. πŸ‘πŸ˜‡ Today's update, ticks over badly... I have ordered 021907601A the camshaft position impulse sensor from TPS as it is still available from VW bargain Β£81 +vat 021906433A from Classic parts including uk delivery total Β£68 Not much more I can do until they turn up, but I shall post up which one makes a difference. Genuine parts and never been changed so happy go do it anyway. Whilst I wait I am going to put a one way valve to the fuel system too. Who did this lately, so I can have a thread read? Keyo I'm sure you did and know the sizes of what I need. Just trying to get the fuel tank collar off to get to the pump. Any top tip with this swine gratefully received. The mk2 golf I have came off quite easy compared to this pig πŸ€¬πŸ˜‚
  9. interesting mileage..
  10. i think they are referring to the fact that there are different speeds of USB cable, ideally you want a USB 3 if possible as these can handle a higher data throughput however, it may be that whatever you are using is not corrado compatible IIRC you cant read much through the OBD1 port
  11. Now this is still blowing my mind 🀣🀣 The usb lead has the vcds plug on it, which I plug into my lads laptop.... How would I make that faster? It works fine on my Passat and other vehicles, but would be nice to look at the Corrado controllers better
  12. only just seen this post - ive got a full guide with pics on how to do this job so much easier with dash fully out i email it out on request
  13. It’s taking too long to copy the data or read it get a faster USB
  14. πŸ€”πŸ™ˆ what does drop the latency on your USB mean in simple English πŸ˜‡
  15. Last week
  16. I think it improved things, although I can't exactly remember. I definitely didn't break down again after but I don't think the engine ran brilliantly still. What you've described there sounds quite similar to the issue I had recently where it was idling really badly. Have you reset done the ECU reset? Mine seemed to just sort itself out after a while, which was a bit odd. Also not sure if you know but to get it to scan the ABS properly you need to drop the latency on your USB port.
  17. Did that sort your warm starting issue?
  18. I decided to put a scan on her tonight and guess what, NO FAULT FOUND apart from the speed signal usual. Strangely I then started her, all good then it dropped the revs and went lumpy, then back to being good. Revved smoothly and dropped fine but with what seems a slightly lower idle. See recording Messing with the sensors has definitely done something, so I shall get these changed. Perhaps it is heading in the right direction 🀞 Check out the mileage. Hopefully I may get to do another couple 😁 20220807_205412.mp4
  19. Nothing πŸ˜‚ I did cut one up yesterday though. I went to Tatton Park VW show, around 10 Corrados dotted about, sun was out many visitors, cars exhibitors after COVID, it was nice to see
  20. This was the thread to the crank sensor issue if you're interested: M25 Breakdown - Engine Bay - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) Funny how the memory works, we actually came to a complete stop and I turned the engine off but it wouldn't turn on and I had to push the car onto the hard shoulder.
  21. Do you think it could have jumped a tooth on the timing? It might be worth checking static timing?
  22. Just been having a good read of this. Shame the links to the threads on page 4 dont work anymore. Definitely giving me something to think about with my cars issues at the moment
  23. I changed mine due to some odd running issues at the time. This was all before the engine rebuild. The engine had cut out on the M25 - it was a very hot day and the traffic had slowed due to an incident further up. From memory the revs suddenly started dying/hunting so I made it to the hard shoulder, but it wouldn't start again. I seem to remember having to avoid a fire engine barrelling down the hard shoulder as I limped over! The car did eventually start again after half an hour, so quite possibly was heat related rather than anything. But they were some rough running issues generally as well and someone on here suggested swapping the sensor out. It wasn't long after that though I rolled it into the garage and commenced the rebuild as I could hear the chains rattling, so I can't really say if it fixed anything. There should be a post on here about it somewhere. Maybe even in my thread. I got a Valeo one from Autodoc I think.
  24. That pipe is one the aircon ones. I eventually found it underneath, thanks. Still not a great amount of room. Taken out, cleaned and put back in as there isn't much else I can do with it today. She started fine but has a lumpy idle and the exhaust fume smell is horrible. I also took the Camshaft sensor off, cleaned, tested and put it back. Not really sure of how it is, but I did test for resistance at it. 13 ohms between 1+2 8 ohms between 2+3 I shall try and source the genuine items and change both of these as I believe them to be the original fitted items. Change each 1 and try the car. I did record her starting just need to upload it when I am back home Why did you change yours and did it solve the issue? Also where did you get it from? Thanks gents πŸ‘
  25. What's the pipe with the blue clip on? I don't recognise it. If you're looking for the crank sensor you're best off going from the underside of the car. As Dox says it is by the oil cooler, and just above the sump. I changed mine not too long ago and this was really the only access. There is a small socket head cap bolt that secures the sensor. Cam sensor is, I think, in the chain cover housing towards the rear.
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