Dubcharged

Hi guys What are you losing from your flywheel to your wheels? 2 wheel drive systems lose around 15%, my 4 wheel drive loses 26%. Anyone got dyno's to verify? Thanks :D

My mate has an Alfa 145 with a 2.5 24v V6 lump in it (only one in the country). It has aftermarket management, cams and a large throttle body. The car is CRAZY!! It produces around 235 BHP, but the beauty is in the gearing and the power curve. Once its in its power band, well, lets just say he races porsche 944's (non turbo) :shock:

If you are using a 68 pulley, you should have either a smaller belt or use the washers in the tensioner trick. I prefer to go for the smaller belt. Gates make it and the 68mm pulley requires the Gates belt 68416.

All depends on the pulley size you're using. If its a 68 then you should be getting around 13-15psi. At what rpm do you reach 12psi?

Just make one from a sheet of alu :D Its only a 90 degree bend, nothing complicated, just use some cardboard to get the dimensions spot on and then use it as a template for the aluminum sheet. Cheap as chips :D

Yep, Wide Open Throttle 8)

Oh, and I should have the FPR's soon too.

RIGHT!!! I think i should provide some explanation here :D Digi Lag is an inherent problem with the Digifant ECU. Basically as soon as you go WOT, the ecu continues to cycle the mixture rich lean rich lean etc for a second or two before stabilising to the fuelling on the map. This is NOT GOOD, since you are leaning out under BOOST. This is also why you can go faster by progressively applying throttle since you are effectively giving the ecu time to stabilise. NOW, we (SNS) have cracked this problem and have completely re-written the map, not just tweaked the standard one which most tuners do. As a result, as soon as you go WOT, the fuelling will hit the map value INSTANTLY, no cycling, no hesitation and you motor will fly. :D We have mapped using the 3.5bar FPR so that the standard injectors are less stressed and it also has allowed us to produce a map which produces more power/torque from the motor. As for group buys, i'm sure you guys can appreciate that we are already undercutting the market to introduce SNS to the UK. However, i'm always game for a deal. All depends on how many of you want one 8) The SNS UK site should be up soon and will have plently of info and evidence to show everyone what we are providing. (phew)

I'll have to get back to you on the exact price, it should be around £30.

Yeah Demon Tweeks do the Lumenition ones which cost ph100!!! They do the same job. Baz: Put the a/f gauge in before our chip, floor it and take note of the reach lean cycling which continues for a coule of seconds. Then put the SNS in and watch the difference. (Try to watch where your going too :shock: )

From me soon :D How many people would be interested in one? Its a good safety device to tell you if you're leaning out. Not very accurate for anything richer than stoich due to the narrow band lambda we all use. It will also show you Digi Lag when you floor it (rich lean cycle)

Hi Steveo29, you must be Pigbladder from the gti forum??

Just starting up here in the UK but we're well established in the US. Ask corrado owners on the Vortex and they'll let you know :D http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=36 This is the G60 Technical forum

I use the B&M short shift too, the throw is greatly reduced but you have to be a bit more aggressive with gear changes. Personally I love it, 0-60 times are reduced since the original throw is horribly long. :?

Perhaps you should go for a 68mm pulley. You wont lose power with a large bore exhaust, you may lose bottom end torque but unlike turbos the charger doesnt need back pressure to perform.

What boost are you getting at the moment? 210bhp seems a tad low with those modifications unless you are using a pulley bigger than 68mm.

We have copyrighted the No Lag feature since its a very significant step in Digifant mapping. We wouldn't want anyone to steal our code now would we? :x

We've been working on a soft cut for a few months now, still going through testing at the mo but seems to be working well. :) We could program your motor to spit flames :twisted: Perhaps its not such a good idea at the limit since the hard cut scenario might present itself again. Will have to look into it 8)

65mm is a good size, you can take it to 6300 and still be within the design spec of the charger rpm. Hope you've got correct fuelling though, if you're from canada then you must be a KK customer? Great place!! They really know their stuff!! :D Shift light's a great idea, i use one since i HAVE to change at 6k rpm (i'm using a 62mm pulley but with red tops 8) 8) ) Due to the nasty nature of the standard hard cut, we've pushed the limiter to where no one can reach it!!! Just learn to shift at the appropriate rpm with respect to your pulley :wink:

The G60 block itself is very well built, taking it to over 6k doesn't pose a problem, its just the charger. You could strap a turbo onto the G60 engine and take it over 6500rpm without a problem!! :D

Having read a few threads various forums, it has come to my attention that a lot of G60 owners (especially chipped) take the car to the limit and bounce off the limiter. :shock: PLEASE be warned that the limiter is a very hard cut as i'm sure you've noticed. It causes a huge back pressure into the charger, the oil supply basically acts like a pressure hammer when the limiter is hit This obviously damages the charger and i have seen chargers blow oil seals and displacers by people bouncing off the limiter :cry: Solution: get rid of that nasty limiter and learn to shift just after peak power, which on a standard G60 head is approx 6000rpm (see your dynos) Just a word of advice :wink:

Hi Jon, delivery time is a couple of days. I can send on the same day as you order :)

The only way you'll get any gain is if your current ISV is worn and its leaking boost. Before you spend your money you might as well check it by disconnecting it and clamping the hose. Go for a drive and put your foot down then read the max boost you get. Any difference? If you get more then your ISV is leaking, if not then save your money :mrgreen:

The G60 is a great motor to tune. As standard you've got 160BHP which can leap to 200BHP with just a chip and pulley. THE most important thing is to get your charger rebuilt and preferably ported. After this, make sure you check your vacuum hoses since they are prone to perish and will result in poor running of the car. Its always best to tune the G60 in stages, go for just a chip and 68mm pulley to start with. Then as the tuning bug bites harder, think about a cam and flowing the charger etc. An external oil cooler is an important add on since the standard water system is inefficient and obviously more heat = less power and your charger seals will shorten in life. THE most crucial aspect of G60's when it comes to tuning is fuel delivery. With higher than standard boost, you must make sure that the map you use provides instant fuelling and enough to keep you on the rich side of 14.7:1. Preferably between 12.5 and 13.5:1 under WOT. Otherwise say goodbye to your pistons :(

Well each charger is different due to age etc but i use a Schrick 268 cam and a 2.5" exhaust and i was reaching 14.5psi all the time with my 68 . Maybe a higher profile cam wouldnt allow you to reach 14psi but as you said, 10 is too low.