Dubcharged

You can rev to 6300 with a 65mm, you have to restrict yourself to 6000rpm with a 62mm. I'm using a 65 and love it! I make 15psi boost and thats with a 268 cam (there'd be more pressure build up without a higher lift cam). When making 15psi and over you need to uprate the injectors to 30lb items and obviously have the corresponding map. I can supply the injectors and we've mapped a host of chips for the 30lb injectors, one which i'm currently testing. :D

You get a chip which provides the engine a continued map based on boost/rpm so that the engine continues to make power after the pressure sensor reaches its limit. 8) You do also need to get bigger injectors to cope with boost over 1.1 bar as the standards can't cope. I run 15psi all the time without any probs on my 30lb injectors. :D

:D :D :D :D :D You've got a nice G60 there James, it responded very well to the map and we didnt even fine tune it with the timing! Run that baby on nothing less than Super, Optimax is best. Also bear in mind it was a hot day, on a cold night it'll be even better 8) Disclaimer: SNS Tuning cannot be held responsible for loss of license, speeding fines and points :lol:

I'm going to be building a 16v G60 soon using the complete 16v kr lump with uprated bottom end and lower comp pistons etc. Just not sure whether to put it in the Rallye or get a MK1?!? We've mapped a host of 16v conversions with the G-lader and with turbo set ups on a bunch of different injector sizes, its a shame all G60's weren't 16v cross flow to begin with :(

It goes directly onto the sensor. LowG: All Air/fuel gauges are only as good as the lambda they use. Since we all have narrow band lambda's we will only get accurate readings up to stoich. All the A/F gauges work form the same principle of displaying the voltage change from the lambda. A/F gauges are not a tuning tool, you need a wide band lambda for that. They are however, a very useful tool in showing you if something has gone wrong with your fuelling since they will display lean conditions accurately.

Have your injectors packed up? You need to get the right capacity injectors (high impedance) otherwise you'll run either too lean or too rich since your map will be the same.

The colours vary from lambda to lambda, the signal wire is the one which looks to be seperate from the other three. What was the colour on your one Baz?

how do you know the mixture is funny? if you're using a gas analyser then you should set up the CO pot according to that. What do you mean by funny? Sorry to keep asking questions but i cant suggest something without knowing whats wrong :?

When you say running probs, what exactly is wrong?

You need to adjust the centre postion. Loosen the neutral adjustment screw in front of the spring and rotate the stick until you can push it into 3rd with no sideways movement. Takes a bit of getting used to but once done, its great. Dont force it from 2nd to 3rd, if you've aligned it properly then when taking it out of 2nd, it should relocate itself in the centre and then just push it up into 3rd!

Sorry i didnt post earlier jimbog, just got back in :( Is it sorted?? Sometimes when you pull the big connector off the ecu, the pins bend back a bit so when you re-connect them there isn't sufficient contact. Furthermore, you must put the screws back onto the black cover to ensure a good fit by the connector. In this case (insufficient connection with pins) just get a pointy object and pry the pins in the clamp forward a touch so they make contact with the ECU pins once connected. Also, did you put the chip in the right way round? Lined the notch up on the chip with the notch on the socket?

Which connector? the main socket to the ECU? this has a metal clamp on one side which pops off then the connector comes off from the hinge. have a look at http://www.snstuning.com/removale.htm

Lowg: Yes, cam helps mid and top by increasing duration, but this needs to be complimented by a free flowing exhaust, no point increasing intake and exhaust valve duration if you're gonna restrict the exhaust gases where the cam comes in, (mid, top).

on a g60 you need the cat,when you take it out you will lose loads of back pressure which will lower the tourqe on low rpm,you just replace it with a race cat. On a turbo is best not to have any back pressure at all. If you drive your G60 under 4k rpm all the time then this would be true. However, if you drive it like me up to 6k (i go to 6300) then the cat restricts flow. I'm using a 2 1/2" bore exhaust straight through, yes i have lost some torque bottom down, but the gain in mid and top is what i'm after. :D

dubster: the one i have shows me the same reading as my previous one, seems to be fine. However most of these mechanical boost guages aren't totally accurate anyways.

Boost guages are an essential item. I've been surprised at how many people come to me for a chip and don't know their peak boost! You gotta get one!! I got mine from Demon Tweeks. They have a bunch of boost gauges, i got a splitfire one which is in PSI and doesn't say Turbo on it! It reads up to 20psi. £30 Most of us wont make over 16psi so get a gauge which reads over 1bar (14.5psi). Up to 2bar, 1.5bar is better in my opinion. :D

I'm just off the A406 in Stratford (A406, A12) I advise you to get a boost gauge installed when you get your raddo before coming down, will help determine the optimum settings. :D

baz: Get your G60, then come and see me, i'm in east london so not too far from you! We'll turn that baby into a beast!!! :D

Put a hose on it and route the hose to somewhere clean, like top of the batt area. Leave the hose open and you wont get that annoying whistle. Nothing will get in because the hole is located downstream of the bypass butterfly so air is always passing through it rather than being sucked through it. :D

As i've mentioned before, the G60's were presented to the public in very tame form. How many other cars can boast a genuine 25-35 bhp increase by spending around £180???? G60's come to life (as they were intended to) with the simple chip and pulley mod. 8)

You could have got it from me ipk. You would've had it next day :(

I should have some good news for you charged boys on the mapping front soon too :D

munkay, munkay, munkay!! Stirring? who me sir? :lol:

Still working on the VR6 chips Chris, price shouldn't be more than £150.

In the new PVW there's a 4wd group thrash. There are a few nutty motors (the Audi) and then theres a raddo 16v G60 and a Rallye G60. Ok, it was wet and the raddo still needed loosening up, fair enough BUT the rallye?? 0-60 9.4 secs and 0-100 22.95 secs with a chip/charger/pulley done?!?! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: My 8v gti would give that a good run for its money! C'mon guys, pleeeease tell me your G60's are faster? I know for sure my Rallye was doing 7sec 0-60's when i first bought it with just a chip/pulley/charger done. Ok, and exhaust :wink: Ok, Rallyes have a 4wd system to carry but that should be beneficial for the 0-60. Anyone timed theirs??