Dubcharged

Glad you like it mate. Sounds like the MOMO was tightened a bit too much!

Well its £45 for the gear knob, leather would obviously cost more. Again reason why its £45 is purely down to the fact that its machined from billet in very limited numbers rather than mass produced from cast. So it does carry that exclusive touch.

If you're going for just looks then probably Reiger, but if you want an improved gearchange then its the SNS. Reiger one does look nice.

Got a pic of the OE one you're referring to?

Cold in the winter?! C'mon we're meant to be men :lol: They cost £45 plus postage which i thought was pretty good considering they're machined from billet in low numbers so the machinig cost is pretty high - unike the cheapo mass produced stuff which weighs about as much as a gnats gonad. :lol: I appreciate some people may find it too much to pay for a gearknob, but bare in mind thus thing performs a function of improving your gearchange with its weight and shorter height. So its more of a performance mod than an aesthetic one.

errr, i just saw this thread.....read some of the "Joe Cell" explanation on the link from the 1st page, havent read the rest of the huge thread but.......... errr.........this was a joke right?? Please tell me this was a joke :? From the site: "Human presence can affect the operation of the cell in a positive or negative way. " "in stage 4 the cell is said to exhibit antigravity effects that reduce the weight of the vehicle in which the cell is installed" Not sure what to say really :?

ye as above, shorter throw and the weight makes the change smoother and feel more solid.

Olly will be posting up some pics with it in his C shortly. If anyone doesnt feel an improvement in gearchange, i'll refund the money (provided its not damaged) - thats how confident I am in this product!

Hi Guys I can do these at £45 delivered for forum members. Reason they are "pricey" is because they are machined in very small numbers in the UK from billet. I know you can get cheapo gearknobs - but thats what they are - cheap and mass produced. If you want a gearknob just for looks then you have a huge choice out there with Momos etc etc. But if you want your gearchange to improve by being shorter in throw and smoother then you really should try these.

This is a good mod to do guys - reduces the onset of detonation due to diluted octane from oil vapours.

You could also try the W5DPO or go for the Denso Iridium equivalent.

Good work, that really is a nice price for the intercooler! Should make a noticeable diference over the puny standard one.

Hi guys I've been in Newcastle for a while now (back and forth from London) and i've probably seen only 1 Corrado!? :? Surely there must be a few of you guys up here?

Hi Guys You're probably wondering why we have sponsored the Interior section?! :? Well we've designed a dedicated gearknob for you guys machined from Billet Aluminium. This is the first of a new line of products we'll be able to offer on behalf of our spin off company Storm Motorwerks. This is purpose designed to fit on all Corrados (VR6 included) and any car with a cable change box (G60's). in true SNS style - this is not your normal aftermarket gearknob, read about it on our site and check out the video showing the unique finish we've developed (click my sig) 8) To kick things off we're doing a group buy in the Group Buy thread :D

Try the cheapest/easiest things first. Check/change the vac hose to the ECU (there are 2 very close to each other at the back of the throttle body - the one you want is the uppermost one) Adjust the CO pot using the gas analyser How is your idle? Can you smell petrol while it idles/ is it lumpy?

Might sound obvious but have you tried adjusting the CO pot on the boost pipe using your mates gas analyser?

Awesome, cant wait to go!!

Yep, heat sheilds have almost always been fabricated with NO knowledge of thermodynamics! :( Most heat sheilds i've seen have just been an aesthetic aid rather than a functional thermal barrier. Hopefully my experience of working as an engineer in the electronics cooling industry will enable me to design a proper heat shield by calculating the heat transfer mechanism in the engine bay. I can only try 8)

I'm not so sure about that Carbonio intake - it increases the track length of the inlet air. From experience, increasing the track length gives better low rpm torque but chokes top-end. I've been planning on developing an induction kit for both the G60 and VR6 guys, incorporating a complete solution from heat sheild (a proper thermal barrier - non of this flimsy shiny Alu rubbish) to venturi effect inlet and cold air feed. I have G60's to work on but not a VR6 - maybe one of you guys could help out :) If at the end of the development, the system gives no proven gain then I will NOT sell it :!: I like you guys have had enough of all the bogus induction kits on the market, don't need another :roll:

You have you check these out, trust the AMericans to come out with these!! http://www.boreme.com/boreme/funny-2006 ... ubs-p1.php

On my twin cone setup, i used a heat shield and a big duct from the removed foglight to the hole where the carbon canister used to be. i found that boost was higher earlier in the rpm as the charger had more area to draw from therefore was more efficient. Made the car feel stronger in mid-range. only thing i'd like to investigate with this airbox is that the charger will be drawing in air on both sides but from the same area downstream of the filter element. This could cause some turbulence issues in the airbox as both sides will be pulling air against each other. Will need to investigate to confirm my thoughts though.

Oooh i like that box, same principle as my twin cone setup on my rallye.

Or direct from us :) You can have a look at the SNS UK website (in my sig) for some technical info on the benefits of the No Lag coding.

Haha, nice Sig! I think you need to get your car to wake up also!

Each car will behave differently but you'll definately feel the difference in performance. The car almost "wakes up" :D