loepan

http://s964.photobucket.com/user/jackburton_photo/library/ultimate%20dubs%202014 few rado's if anyones interested

I think they have all got there, as kev had mentioned if something breaks you've not uprated the parts accordingly and there is no way people run turbos on stock brakes etc a lot of the time I would suspect suspension and braking systems are on the list of things to do first before considering bhp and then adjusted accordingly I must apologise to ron if it was my original post that's turned this off topic and into a aspirated vs supercharger vs turbo thread that was not my intention im sure a lot of us banging on about not going turbo having just sat in one of these lads motors would struggle to get out not thinking....damn I need turbo in my life haha

payment sent too cheers

didn't see the courier bit! cool mate, just off out, pm me some payment details ill have em will sort it when im back tonight

cheers kev ill do some research

too far otherwise id have had em

can I ask a dumb question? regarding your charger, forget the fact it doesn't kick in until 4k etc, did the super charger affect the lower range compared to the standard lower na range? is that what your saying? or do they have both the same low range but the charger just kicks in, like you say when you 'rag' it If any body knows or has a vid of a turbo driven corrado, how do I put this, correctly? or maybe normally? i.e. not trying for a 0-60 with wheelspin in the first three gears id appreciate it I know this goes against everything going turbo/charged.....but I love the v6 engine tone, I want to hear that warble through the rev range or at least savour it a little longer before the fssssssssssssh kick in as I stated first dumb question ;-)

my point is that, we can all get them cheaper else where, don't think i've ever actually purchased from vw heritage , but there must be a big enough demand for parts for them to stock them, as pricey as they are they are regarded quite highly hopefully prices come down soon, then we can order them even cheaper from the other sites :dance:

got to be a good thing surely?

new seats for us I think mate

ill take it if not already gone dude? drop me a pm

yeah same here, I have only two cars I wish to obtain before I push daisy's both older cars bmw 2002 tii Porsche 911 that is all

indeed get the vids up

silver rado heading towards woolacombe, flashed but forgot I was in my workds van and not the corrado, must have looked strange haha

dammit! '2nd dibs?':bonk:

does it really? as oppose to the standard box or vs say a k&n cone? would be interested in one myself

yeh get some pics up dude, and welcome

haha yeah......this sounds exactly like when I first got into it....... you'll soon find there is a spray, pad, potion, bar, towel, or cloth for just about everything! all I know it can turn into a rather expensive hobby recently seen a clay towel, haven't used one yet and saying that rob, washing and drying is another issue....once you've perfected the paint you'll be using the grit guard two bucket method for sure ha ha its a never ending list

its all for **** if your not claying it first! ive used so many polishes wax's and sealents and glazes.....and have come to the conclusion that every paint work is different even if you had two cars the same make and colour, I have products that work wonders on my daily's but are damn right awful on the rado, if your t4 is white id go for light specific glazes and wax. when it comes to paint correction, only on site viewing can judge is this your 1st time? are you using a da or a rotary polisher? (da 'dual action' are excellent amateur tools where as rotary's are best for pro or bodyshops) are you looking at removing swirl marks or heavy/light scratches? swirls can almost certainly be removed every time using cutting compounds and pads + finishing polish glazes, every scratch is different and needs to be approached differently dependent on depth, e.g. wet sanding may be required on deeper scratches glazes are like a filler if you will, there's only so much clearcoat/paint (paint dependent) you can take off so you get it as best you can then 'fill' it with a glaze (easy way to describe it) if its just a daily id probably be tempted to use the best budget type...for example when finishing poorboys do a light wax and glaze, and chemical guys jet seal 109 is a good all round sealent if its your first time, I would probably go with a light to medium cutting pad (chem guys hex logic orange for eg) with a medium/light abrasive compound, see if what you want removed has gone and then adjust from there accordingly. I use this as you can tend to finish out on this combination pad...which is ideal for dailys unfortunately it is trial and error

me too.....im so lonely

g60 in lee? anyone

ud is what it is, first real show of the season and always has some eyeball bleeders....but I kinda like that, I like the trailer queen cars inside, it is a show after all, and love the team displays outside if you chat to people you can get some great info, seen these two brunty, looking good fella but I also love the 18 year old just passed his test and his first thought is wheels and slamming, or anything that will get me noticed going into the car park, its what makes ud so fun. some are clever some are just plain awful but I could sit and watch these all day but I love the fact its accessible to all ages and tastes. don't get me wrong if I went to any other pure concours show and it was the same I would be disappointed I just hope it stays pure vag as a few others creep'd in this year and before you know it its just a complete chav fest

damn, didn't know anyone was going off here was a really great day weather was brilliant! loved the outside as much as the inside.....was having a nose at two parked up with each other outside asda, both cream interior red, and dbp if I remember anyones?

do you have to be registered with ccgb to join in....sorry if that's a daft question I might come if the diaries clear

I would be interested to know also, I have this problem, thought about finding my driving position and spot welding it! got to be a better way though surely?