kevinbowe2000

Pm sent. Thanks

Going to clean up my throttle body during the week to see if that helps fixing this stalling issue. Want to replace the flame guard and gasket for the throttle body but can't find them anywhere. Does anyone happen to know part numbers/where I can get them?

Will hopefully help me. Got the same issue right now. Checked for any broken pipes once, cleaned isv twice, maf three times and doing the throttle body tomorrow. Hopefully that will solve it.

Seems like they are on sale here: http://www.rayneautomotive.co.uk/shop/article_79/Corrado-Cup-Holder-OE-Black-Finish.html?sessid=AIJTmn3sOIzYYZgcj3ZaFu0idaMmgR7X4gKlpxZHNtE2VCLsm96JLP8Uds3w9DHY&shop_param=cid%3D29%26aid%3D79%26 for £14.99 plus p&p or here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221262532702?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 for £18.49 total much prefer the £10 price though :)

I'd like one too if available

Got a headlight switch from on here (thanks jason) so not needed anymore. Thanks though for organising matt.

My headlight switch just broke a couple of minutes ago. Wondering if this group buy us going ahead any time soon? Anything I can do to help move thing along?

Today cleaned the maf and isv as i had the hard to start and stalling when breaking issue. Stalling when breaking caused a good few close calls, especially at roundabouts. Took it for a 45min drive after refitting the maf and isv. Only stalled once and wasn't as hard to start. Not sure what the next step to solve this issue would be. Going to take it for another long drive tomo morning before work to see if its all good, but stalling once has made me think that everything is not well. Any ideas? Any pointers would be most appreciated.

Just in case anyone else comes across this, for the BMC CDA I got a 80mm diameter and 76mm length silicone pipe. Works perfect. Also got a bracket from dave16v which is amazing. Shiniest item on the car.

Kevinbowe2000 x1 Thanks

Just purchased full mk1 Audi TT interior for cheap to put in my corrado and looking for some advice. Seen the wiki but wondering if anyone has plans for the frame/bar that needs to be made to fit the front seats to the corrado frames? Has anyone found a good solution to getting the heaters in the Audi TT front seats to work with a corrado dash switch or make a DIY switch? And has anyone found a good way of fitting the back seats. Seen someone put the leather onto the corrado backs but wondering if there way any easier way. Thanks for any help provdied. Kev

llukejp - sent you pm. Have same interior as above and would be interested in swap.

Just got delivery of a BMC CDA that i bought off ebay. Was really cheap so had to take the risk. Supposedly been barely used but by the looks of things, that wasn't true. Gonna get a cleaning kit and spruce it up but all looks good so far. Good few there going cheap, just need to look hard. Also one on gumtree in Edinburgh going for £50 but the guy doesn't have a clue how to measure it even after I explained a couple of times so would go view it if your local. Sounds like the right size though. Anyway, the only thing missing is a silcone pipe to join the CDA unit to the MAF. Just wondering what exact size I need. Believe it is a diameter of 80mm or is a 76mm. Also have no idea what length (for the silicone to join to the MAF that is)? Would 76mm be long enough? It arrived with a load of pipe (silicone and steel) with an MAF, but just going to keep what is on the car already or do you think I should change to the other piping. Any pros over the standard flex piping? All I can think of is less turbulance going into the engine, but does that really make a massive difference? Also fitting RS style air intakes so was thinking about using one or both of them as the cold inlet to the CDA. Think this would be worth while or a waste of time?

Hi Dave. Just wondering if you are still making these and have one available?

Fine with me if I'm on the list of the first 20

Anyone ever tried to fit corbeau boss seats into a vr6? Just wondering if they sit too high or anything?

Hi southie, putting the car in for total respray soon and was hoping to put on a new hood liner when nice and clean. Wondering if there has been any update on when the order might happen? Let me know if there is anything I can do to help out. Thanks for organizing

Will pop the radio out and have a look at the wiring. Ta for all the help Sean.

Stupid question but from reading so much am kind of confused. My radio does not turn off when the keys are removed from ignition. I have to turn on and off manual each time. Kind of annoying me. The ignition is a bit fiddle so am going to replace it. My thinking is that it is broken and thinks a key is always in it. If I only change the ignition switch, I can keep the same barrel and same key? Is this likely to solve the problem or would I need to change the barrel and thus key also?

Thought I saw one person on here that had that issue or could have been another forum. Think it is to do with cheap converters, prolonged use and them getting so hot that they melt the plastic etc. Ta for the reply. Really looks great. Dam good job.

Very interested too. Looks great. Was just about to buy some el wire to do it but yours looks so much better. The converter okay for prolonged use? Heard of then burning out with a good bit of smoke.

Ta Goldie. Want to get everything running sweet and all parts fitted prior to painting so hopefully get the glass in this week. Will pop up a photo when I do. Depends on the weather though as all work is done street side in the west end. The amount of ppl stopping to admire/offer cash for the car is unreal.

Small update and looking for a bit of advice. So far I have replaced the thermostat, fan switch, water pump (all to solve a coolant issue which is now all good thankfully), upgrade light looms, change a few bulbs to LED which i think I might change back because the LED's just arent bright enough, fitted a new head unit which I really like (has an inbuilt phone stand that retracts to have a clean dash look), purchased RS style intakes to replace the front fog lights but have issues trying to fit them, debadged grill, TT wiper arms and aero blades (amazing the difference, can actually see when driving in the rain now), new blue convex heated mirror glass that still need to fit, mk4 handbrake upgrade, new breather valve as the old one was held together with bathroom sealant (didnt work at all) and audi mk1 pedal covers. I am going to replace the sump next week as i have an oil leak and looks like its coming from the sump. The sump was very corroded when i bought it. The advice I'm looking for is what would you recommended to do while replace the sump? And also does anyone have a step by step of installing the RS style intakes on a late VR6. Thought it would be very simple but seems like I might have to remove the bumper, or am i totally missing something. Hoping to get her in the paint shop late March so will put up a few photos of her then. Thanks in advance for any advice that you all can offer.

In work been coming across a lot of talk about PCM (phase change materials) for engines to keep them at optimum temperature/reduce number of cold starts. Been keeping an eye out for something commercial to hit the market but haven't found anything yet. Wondering if anyone else has seen anything?

My ignition barrel is on the way out and was going to replace it but was thinking about putting in a push button starter instead. Don't want one where you have to put in the key to turn on ignition either. Defeats the purpose in my opinion. This forum seems to have gotten to me and want to keep an OEM look so I am thinking of using the cig lighter as the starter. My thought is when you push in the CIG lighter a small bit, it closes two switches. Acc and on. Then when you push the cig lighter in as if you were heating the element, this closes the start switch. To kill the engine, you then just pull the cig lighter out which will open the on and acc switches. This will then mean no security from starting car though, so thought hiding a numpad in the ashtray. Know its a bit cheesy but best option. Maybe something similar to the asainwolf one. You must enter a code to then allow acc and on switches to close. As don't want to even attempt to remove steering lock (though I don't use it) will be just splicing it all in so that key can still be used as per normal. Anyone ever tried this or something like it? Any advice would be mist appreciated. Going to add lights and radio to be turned on when acc switch closes also as I always drive with lights on even during daytime. Thinking maybe a not gate to close windows and sunroof when acc opened again but that might be an add on for the summer project list.