STORM 2

Sorry I meant the oil pressure sender bolt on top of the oil filter housing rather than the filter housing underneath..

I have made contact with an engineering company in China that is quite good at re-manufacturing VAG parts. I've had a look of some of their copied parts and the quality seems reasonable enough. I obviously haven't done any thousand mile formal testing, but it may be a good idea to ask them to try making some of the now rapidly increasing list of obsolete parts for the Corrado. It seems that VAG no longer care about their enthusiasts (unless they want to re-launch a model). Case in point is the ABS pedal travel sensor. Obviously the manufacturers would need minimum orders so there wouldn't be any point asking for something that rarely goes pear shaped. A list of commonly sought after parts would be ideal, that way I can figure out which are the most popular failure/replacement items. The company has requested 3 samples of the part for reverse engineering. Any thoughts or opinions?

Anyone any idea what size the oil pressure sender bolt is on the oil filter housing, so I can buy an angled spanner to give it a tighten? cheers

Update - the elbow is also shagged and the screwholes on the radiator column the elbow attaches to have split so the bolts spin in the thread. So it looks like a new radiator... Any advice on original vs replacement part? KEV - you're bang on - the rad bracket had thickened twice its normal thickness due to corrosion thus damaging the elbow.

Its actually coming from within the slot itself - I must have cracked the elbow or the plastic radiator column itself when tapping in the rad mount. I filled the slot with high temp silicone and inserted the mount. If it does the job I'll leave it until I can get a new radiator before shelling out another £20 on coolant!

I had the front end off to fit a new crack pipe and remedy an oil leak from the oil cooler over the weekend. Just filled up with new coolant and I get a (intermittent) leak from the strangest of places, the slot where the passenger side radiator mount goes. Pic one is with the mount on - have put in back in incorrectly, thus causing the leak? Ultimately looks like a new radiator, but I'm going to bung some high temp sealant in there as a temp fix.

what model C do you have, because all i had was H4 or H7s on mine

HI MATE, late to this I know, but do you have any cream plastics left? Especially the centre 'transmission tunnel' plastic? And the ones in the photo - are they gone? cheers

cheers Stuey, but most of my corrosion is in the end part where it forms the rear wheel arch, so I'm looking at patch welding or a new whole rear wing

Hi Stuey Are these the middle box sections? (see part 12 in the ETKA photo) Can you tell me what length they are? cheers

hi Jon - thanks for that - most of the corrosion is toward the rear of the sill as it becomes the rear wheels arch - am I correct in thinking this is not an available part? Anyone with ETKA, can they tell me what part number is on MG[8], SG[09], illustration [142]? cheers see attached ETKA picture from somewhere else on forum! etka.pdf

failed MOT due to corroded rear aspect of offside sill - anyone got any lying around or knows somewhere to source them? Do VW still sell them? Cheers

Yes please - I would like one

This is the new Corrado in anyone's book

Out of interest, how do you replace the rear quarter panel - from this dissection it seems it is connected to the roof, and would require a replacement of the majority of the car?

Hi all Anyone know where I can source the black plastic press studs that hold the rear door cards to the body? cheers

Excellent, just pm'd you...

Hi do you have the VR6 front grille as in picture, and I'm also after an aux water pump...

HI mate Has the aux water pump gone? cheers

Many thanks RW1 - as always you don't fail to impress :salute:

RW1 - The throttle pedal was extremely stiff so that would fit in with your second diagnosis wouldn't it?

Engine does turn - in fact it started up after a struggle... If the starter is not engaging with the flywheel then I presume that means the motor brushes are going?

Now if you can tell me where I can get a quick unicompartmental arthroplasty before Monday I will be impressed ;-)

Thanks Dr VR6

Cold temperatures but never Battery in good shape 12.6V cold Fuel level low but not dry Accelerator pedal also very stiff Engine turns----doesn't fire Not the classic sound you get with fuelling problem or spark problem....thought it may be a frozen fuel line (but frozen petrol?????) Why the stiff acc pedal :scratch: :scratch: