STORM 2

:( A very gutted man this morning... I was returning home from a fishing trip last night when my front O/S wheel hit the mother of all potholes down a country lane. I then heard a noise akin to a loose cat cover or exhaust dragging for about 200 yards until I braked. Then I heard a bone-chilling grinding noise (bit like when ABS activates) and lost forward drive. It was like trying to drive with the handbrake on except it sounded much worse. Reversing was OK though. Looked outside and saw the front O/S caliper grinding into the inside of the alloy :eek: see picture. Car has been recovered to VW - have to call them this morning to get an idea of the damage, but am I looking at a broken driveshaft? More worryingly, could I have caused secondary damage to the gearbox?

Hi, just thought I'd recommend a metalworker whose speciality is repairing radiators but is a welding/brazing kind of fella. He is the old school one man band with a superbly filthy workshop with used metal and the oxy-acet torch going continuously...smells great. He kindly brazed a bolt back on for me while I waited - another thing that has been lost in the world of appointments and w**nkers that charge you just to open their eyes at the problem. He didn't want any cash either but I gave him a tenner for tea money. Anyway this guy is at M & M Fern Radiators Unit 63 Azura Close, Woolsbridge Industrial Estate, WIMBORNE, BH21 6SZ 012 0282 7037 wont be long before there's none of these people left...you know those who think on the spot and come up with a solution :)

are you running standard lights or projectors Lazarus thread.... There's a pic of the beam pattern in the first post using the same kit

Sorry dr mat ---so you think there may be a drain or some sort of load resistance in between the wiring from the alternator to the battery? [Warning : the above message may contain confusion, a lack of understanding and outright incompetence]

So i ran the car with everything connected and disconnecting the +ve lead of the battery did'nt do anything - the idle ran smoother ------------still the alternator?

cheers for that David - can the diode rectifier be 'rectified' without replacing the whole thing :)

Incidentally what do people think of disconnecting the battery while the cars running to test the alternator ? :scratch: I heard this could be damaging

hi - when do you mean? by itself do you mean if I came to the car in the morning and lifted the bonnet without starting the car and put my hand on the alternator? If so - I haven't done that yet cheers

Yes.. already did this.. and have excluded a current drain of such magnitude. I mean you'd need a major drain to flatten the battery dead within 12 hours surely? What I wanted to know was if a faulty alternator can draw such a large current even though everything is switched off inc. the engine. I tried checking for voltage drop across the battery terminals while the engine was running whilst switching on the electrics: ENGINE RUNNING------------>13V ENGINE RUNNING AND LIGHTS AND VENT ON---------->12.7V So, are we talking new alternator?

Something that I'm too stupid to figure out... If I connect a fully charged battery that holds charge [12.99V] on its own (not connected to anything) to the car and come back 24 hours later the voltage reads [5.4V]. If I charge it up and leave it disconnected for 24 hours the voltage remains OK. Excluding current drain in the normal way (fuse pulling debacle) can a dodgy alternator simply draw current with the car standing doing nothing overnight?. Cheers

And there's me whining about my £200 fully comp VR cover this year...

The HID kits seem to work better with the inpro headlights as they have the projector lens and clear lenses. nightmare getting the correct level though

Just to update this thread - managed to get the brake lines and calipers changed eventually. I used one of those kitchen blowtorches (sparingly) and the slotted spanner (Halfrauds Professional size 11) Thanks for all the help guys Mods Lock Away

Holy Schmoly ! What a great description: obviously some Alistair Campbellesque style spin language going on here like getting from A to B without getting wet.. yeah running away from those wheels and their crazy owner dude might be useful.. somewhere to sit - in the words of the Ferrero Rocher Ad, 'you're really spoiling us!' beautiful are those the great big tracked scary jobbies with a f'off swivelly gun at the top. If so, it would make more sense than 24" wheels you cock. Yes I can see you would probably need some at your new driving altitude... Not just spelling that was a problem at school As opposed to scaring everyone else shitless what would you want to do in an aberration of vehicular dynamics as this? Im sure it is.. AND AFTER ALL THAT - having wetted our lips in eager anticipation having been convinced of the aesthetic and functional qualities of 'golf on 24"wheels'... WHAT????? you've teased and toyed with us and now you've cruelly pulled them away from our grasps.....WAIT..more useful kinematic information... Just in case you are not familiar with the principles of motion in cars. Thankyou KInd Sir for this evening's entertainment.... What a knob :(

Well if the MOT testing station didnt smell a rat then I wouldn't beat yourself up about it really. I'm glad the scum that sold the car is no longer in the Corrado community but as the guys have said - high mileage is kind of a social stigma as opposed to a mechanical handicap.

hiding a 100,000 miles isn't an easy job if you think about service books, receipts etc. Its a horrible thing to find out though and for that I'm sorry :( Have you got any comeback?

Hi you don't need to do a 'reset' - once a faulty sensor is replaced it should go out. You need to make sure you havent left a large gap between rotor cage and sensor as the sensor wont sense the wheels spinning. You may have more than one sensor failure? How did you know it was the rear sensor that was faulty? Central ABS problems will also cause the light to come on. There's a lot on the forum about ABS issues 8)

I'm afraid neither the Porsche or Audi are gonna help you there. Go out and get laid every night for 2 weeks That'll bring you back to earth.You're welcome

Thanks for that - I have some Goodridge lines waiting to go on - Regarding the brake union - are you saying it can only be disconnected by the smaller nut on the solid line? If this were loosened should the flexible hose just drop down throught the mounting point? Does it matter whether the clip on the mounting point stays on does the union have to be released from the mounting point first? Many thanks

Hi So that means no copper grease in that area. Cheers. why? does the copper grease have a magnetic component, cos I though copper wasnt magnetic.....

Is that the one which looks like an ordinary spanner but has a slot in it? If so I've already tried those :(

Hi, I am having a helluva time trying to get the front brake lines disconnected at the junction between rubber and metal, high inside the wheelarch. There's a smaller nut on the hard ine and the larger 'nut' of the rubber line. I simply can't get the two disconnected and have tried everything in my tool box. Do I need to remove the clip that attches the connection to the wheelarch first? Is is better to go intowards the manifold and detach the metal line from there and feed it though the arch? I'm trying to replace the front lines and the calipers............ :mad: :mad: :mad:

Hi That was a great help. Could brake dust bridge the gap if it was any less ? Could do I suppose if the gap was less than 5mm - more likely flakes of corrosion from the hub arm / splash shield probably get in between the sensor and the rotor - remember the face of the sensor is a magnet so any ferrous crud gets drawn to it

I think you had two faulty sensors.. but either way - fixed now..![/quote:pkjdtew9] if that was the case, then the abs warning light would remained on after replacing one side. It went off however once the drivers side sensor was replaced.

sorry - all the details were in the earlier post - you lazy barstewards! Basically - there are two issues here: Firstly the system doesn't seem to like two sensors of differing makes. One was original and the other was a GSF part. So I fitted both with the GSF part. Secondly, the gap between the sensor magnet and the rotor cage has to be minimal but not touching - it was a little difficult because like many, my rotors were a little warped but not too seriously. I managed to position the sensors with about say 3-8mm gap all way round. Does that help? cheers