NormanCoal

kev, Really glad to hear the report Kev, hopefully the ingredients for my other VR should make for a good engine - basically the same as yours but with the addition of the BVH. I may have to come to the RR day just to see what the torque curve looks like

Following on from another thread (I thought that I wouldnt hijack it any more :roll: ) what are your opinions with regards the standard fitment of seats in the corrado, be them cloth, leather, standard or Recaro. Recaros have a taller backrest (so support your full back to the top of your shoulders) and a longer seat base (so support your thighs up to your knees). They also sit lower in the car (on different subframes) as the seat is physically taller. Lateral support when cornering is slightly less than a normal sport seat, but only marginally IMO. Their comfort for long journeys IMO is superb due to the reasons I've given above. This may not apply to everyone though, but it's what I've found. Aterall Recaro hardly put their name to any old seat..... Personally, its not the length of the thigh support thats the problem, more that the area just under the knee isnt in contact, therefore causing a lack of support. I'm going to try and modify my seat shortly so that the front is sat higher and hopefully this may ease the problems that I'm having

Good luck Paul, I hope it works

The story being true, the last rallye rear diff was the evening before Inters 03, practising starts for the quarter mile. He was gutted to miss the event, couldnt get hold of one for love nor money there and then. Since the Haldex was fitted, there have been no problems with the transmission side (just the other bits!)

Indeed, Pop's is the only car in know in this country that has retro fitted haldex - its a G60 syncro shell BTW, not a rallye

I think I said on the first page about a rallye system breaking with 20vt power, and since the fitment of the haldex it hasn't broken the rear diff, and has since had a bigger turbo fitted

An engineer never sees a problem only a solution :wink: (not that I'm an engineer)

Cheers chaps, no idea why Paynes didnt cross my mind, not like I haven't heard of them before

I realise that there are problems with both - I have one of these boxes in my garage. It does help if someone can tell you the measurements of the driveshafts, but enough people have installed this box to know that they arent that difficult to overcome. And if you are thinking of changing the rear diff to a haldex, then surely a new mount for a box isnt too much to overcome.......

Surely it would be easier to use the proper O2M box and the haldex rear diff in the first place? The O2M box is reputedly very strong, with a high Torque rating. The cost of the entire haldex setup should be cheaper than a Rallye O2C dog box shouldnt it?

I'm looking at buying a medium sized van, something along the lines of a LWB VW Transporter, or a LWB semi high roof Tansit, or similar Has anyone got any experiences to point me in the right direction please? Want to spend about 2-2.5K

If fluid goes on the floor, then it will be replaced in the lines by air, no matter which way you look at it

The reason that I have said to push all the fluid out first is that you are changing calipers - when you do this you will end up with fluid all over the floor if you dont get it out first. The ezibleed sytem - connect the air hose to a spare tyre, connect the cap to the top of the reservior (after removing the normal cap) and leave the bottle (normally you put new fluid in it) empty. As soon as the hose is connected to the tyre this will use the air in it to pressurise the system. Then crack open the bleed nipple on each caliper in turn to empty the fluid out. I am about to put 288 calipers on my VR (once I have some wheels to fit over) and this is the procedure that I will use

If you are going to be changing calipers and therfore the hoses, then use an ezibleed system to blow all the old fuild out - keep the reservoir empty and it wil push air into the system and bleed it all dry - you wont have any puddle on the floor then, and when you push new fluid through you will know that its all new

Anybody recommend a half decent bodyshop in berks/bucks that I can use to repair to repair and paint the front end of my jetta from a recent excusion against the armco at the Nurburgring in Germany Ta Muchly

Kev is speaking about the same guy - Gary had nothing but trouble when he put the Shricks in, but that is in part caused by the lack of other parts/developement at the same time. a 2L valver can produce good power, but its need investment in time and money. a good 180bph is possible with limited mods and they drive exceedingly well

A bit manky is what it is. Maybe something to do when the rad fans get replaced

How hard is it to get the complete unit out on a VR6? I need to replace the belt that drives the second fan as its snapped. Anyone have any helpful advice for me on the easiest way please Ta Chris

I bought my 92 VR on Saturday (a hot day) and on the way back down the motorway was seeing 122-124 at whatever pace I chose (Mway speeds). I had a look at the state of the oil when I got home and decieded that I would change it as it looked a bit manky. I thought that new oil may bring the temp down to a better level (synta silva with Mann filter) but no, its still up there burning hot. The question is why is it so high? The only two bits of info that I can add is that it does have an oil leak. I have replaced the oil pressure switches on top of the oil filter housing, but I think that the sandwich plate seals need replacing. The other thing is that the fan isn't currently working at its best. The belt between the two fan units has snapped, so currently only running on one fan Suggestions please? Ta Chris

I'm just in the middle of changing my black cloth interior to a grey one, including leather. Currently got just the front and back seats in there, and I think it looks really good. Mine is in a grey car though not silver. Personally I think black would look the best, but I can understand about the heat scenario

I resisted the temptation to post on this thread as I knew what it was going to be an age ago - I saw it earlier on this year when I picked up some RST seats from you Ben Oh, and it looks damn fine

Before I write what I know, in my opinion its torque that kills diffs, not outright power There is a particular 20VT syncro golf that I know that is running a huge amount of power - jabba built engine with a huge IHI roller bearing turbo. This car has twice blown rallye rear diffs to smitherins, and has since had a haldex rear diff installed. The trick bit of this installation is that it is switchable from 2WD to 4WD. This means that when it goes onto the strip it runs in permanent 4WD mode, not using the rallye type of system of throwing the drive to the back end once the front starts to lose its grip. That may be the difference in the examples you have described above. Only from the knowledge that I know can I say that Haldex is better that the Rallye system (from the one car that I know with it fitted)

I'll be even more pleased at the end of the week - new plugs and leads should have it running a bit better, and a new interior (it is a very early VR with the older style interior)

It has a couple of dents on the other side as well unfortunately, but they arent as noticeable They are from a MK3 16v, the early version that had 280mm brakes. I know from experience that these dont fit over 288mm MK3 brakes which I am intending on fitting soon - I already have them, and the current discs are warped I do have some 180 brake TT 16's, but I dont know how they are going to look yet. Will find out soon when the brakes and suspension get changed

Started on the mods today - changed the VW roundell from a chrome to a Black one this morning :) This afternoon saw an oil and filter change, and the underside steam cleaned of all its oily crap. Hopefully be able to see where the oil leak is coming from - my bet is on the oil cooler housing seals I also found out today that the tool kit has the original plug removal tool, and the rear seat still has the original first aid kit and warning triangle - well chuffed