davidwort

027 129 717F for 50mm, it's got bigger holes in it than the 42mm one :wink:

to be fair, you're having to work against the fluid in a hydraulic rack if the pump goes. I'd imagine with a proper manual rack, once you are rolling it would be OK, just don't expect to parallel park without a truck sized steering wheel :lol:

yeah, a 1.3 golf mk2 without PS is bad enough, don't fancy turning 205 tyres with a heavy front end over them by hand. A mk2 GTI rack would go in with a corrado column, but you'd need an early corrado UJ (22 spline) and the lock to lock isn't as quick a ratio as the 16v golf power rack, don't know if there is a 16v manual rack, but the quick ratio would make things very heavy.

1. get an MOT station/garage to do it unless you have an accurate gas analyser, the steps are detailed in the Haynes manuals covering either the K-jet injection system or the passat 88-91 manual, possibly in the mk2 golf manual if it covers the 16v engine. 2. replace the cable, or give it a bit of a lube, but once they wear they really need replacing, your problem doesn't really sound like a cable though, but a new one feels so much better and due to the 180- deg turn they make they do wear badly. thinking about it, perhaps you have a cold start injector or warm up regulator problem, again, haynes does provide a checklist for each of these including resistance values etc. you'll need at least a multimeter though.

yeah, really interesting read, If the posts are factually correct (and they seem pretty well informed) I think it's another example of how a manufacturers research and development produces OEM kit that does the job very well and how aftermarket 'performance upgrades' can be quite the opposite. It's also interesting that it's not always the case that something like an aftermarket bushing is a straight-forward trade off between comfort and performance, I've always wondered what increased stresses are placed on clutches, driveshafts etc, by stiffening up all the mountings for the engine and suspension, 'somethings gotta give'.

The early cars have a single piece golf mk2 style strut top bearing and mounting, they're OK with a mm of play in them but can wear so badly that they pop up a cm or more, the later cars have the 2 piece type with a separate bearing. Racks are a problem, mega £££ for a VAG one and recon ones have had bad reports, only other option is second hand and it's not a 5 minute job. see here

Are your top mounts in good condition? I have a torque steer type effect from an old worn rack, shortly to be replaced, which also causes a similar effect.

I think they vary between models and years, VR6's use the ECU to calculate MPG from the map for fuelling and the early 16v's have a dash with just one bulb for the indicators (not the two arrows) and a machanical mileometer, this type also has a different wiring connector at the back to the later 16v clocks, although I've heard it is possible to fit the later 16v clocks with a bit of messing around, presumably with the right connector blocks off a later loom. 1.8 16v's can have mechanical or the later style dash depending on year and the 2L 16v cars have a rev counter with a lower redline and a different fuel gauge.

try it, will probably be fine, I've ordered both the mineral and synthetic stuff from VAG and will try both, I had good results with the previous spec VAG stuff a few years back in the 02A gearbox.

:shock: :lol: doesn't surprise me that many components are interchangeable or used on later boxes, VW do tend to evolve things and reuse stuff that will do the job wherever possible. Loads of the shift towers of different designs seem interchangeable too, would like a mk4 one on my 02A.

I'm sure someone told me that some of the beetles have 100mm flanges.

all you need on the 4 cyl cars is to lift the engine a cm or so to slide the old mount out, you may need to lift the car slightly if it on lowered suspension as the wishbone on the drivers side gets in the way a bit do not buy GSF unless you use the car on the track, the vibration will knock your fillings out, AVS 'FEBI' ones are fine though here

I'm not that pessimistic, once dino oil becomes too expensive to extract as resources run low (which will probably be a lot longer than some people predict) then synthetic oils will be more attractive to produce, they cost more at the moment. I don't, it's already more expensive than milk per litre FFS.

if you do use the old bearing race to push the new one in, make sure it goes in shoulder first, so you've got something to get the punch onto to remove it should it get stuck in the disk!

tap the races out bit by bit going round the edge with a punch (if you don't have a suitable puller) and you can also get away with tapping the new ones in using the old bearing race and a hefty hammer.

2L 16v belts are basically the same as the earlier 1.8 16v cars with the exception that the PS belt doesn't drive the water pump, it's a straight drive from crank pulley to PS pump pulley. The alternator belt drives both alternator and waterpump whereas the 1.8's (apart from the late 1990/91 cars that are the same as 2L's) have an additional idler pulley to deflect the alternator belt around the waterpump. So, the loosening of brackets etc. to slacken the PS belt and remove is much the same process as the 1.8: pics of bolts to undo

shame, fan spray jets on my mk4 are good and use much less water than the old style ones. With only a weak screen wash mix they never freeze in winter.

you usually get water/oil mixing as the thing corrodes from inside, sometimes mistaken for a headgasket failure as you get emulsified oil in the engine.

get a bottle of white vinegar, plug up the expansion hose connector, fill with vinegar, shake about a bit, let it sit on one side for a few hours, then shake it and sit it on the other side for a few hours, rinse out. I left mine overnight too. virtually all the crud came out of mine and I can see the coolant again, yey!

damn, that's scuppered my plans for a six wheel C.

you may well need two new rear calipers, once the h/brake mech starts to go they'll never work for long if just freed off. Look at 50 quid each exchange (possibly more) plus brake bleeding etc.. You also need a caliper wind back tool to refit rears.

In brief, I'd suggest you don't go too low, 50 or 60mm will mean the front wishbones are pointing up instead of down and handling will be affected. 30 or 40mm drop is good and H&R springs with Koni top adjustable dampers are a good solution. A koni kit(including springs that you can sell on) and then H&R's on top will set you back close to 500 quid. Buy cheap alternatives and you will likely suffer from a poorer ride, i.e. something like a GSF lowering kit. you pays your money...

Haven't filled it up yet, but I have a power drill, hot air gun, jig saw etc, that I want to put in there and the bigger drawers in the 7 drawer roll cabinet are fine for most of these, some of the cabinets have a larger lift up door type front with a larger storage area, buit for general tools I was advised my mechanics to go for an all drawer cab as it makes regular access to items easier. the only thing's I won't get in are my electric tile cutter and power rotary mitre saw, think even my angle grinder should fit in one of the big drawers though. Most of my sockets, spanners etc... will go in the 6 drawer top chest I've got on top of the 7 drawer roll cab.

On 'Supercharged's' recommendation I ordered a roll cab and top box from machine mart a few weeks back now. It's finally arrived and I'm really impressed, very good quality stuff and an excellent price: HD Plus range definitely recommend this to anyone, it's not Snap-On (it's also not 3 grand) but it's better than the Halfords Professional range and cheaper, I'm only using it for home use but I reckon it would withstand workshop use pretty well.

Having a good read through this thread and a chuckle or two. A few pretty random thoughts sprang to mind: In the 70's 'we' were worried about an impending ice-age :? If we can't predict next weeks weather how the $%^& can we predict if/ how much the globe might warm by :? :? A few decent sized volcanic erruptions would dwarf any human activity emissions and certainly any cut we could make As I was fixing my washing machine (also applies to Corrado) I wondered how much more of the world would be polluted by the energy required to make a new one had I taken the easy way out and binned the old one, rather than replacing one component when the rest of it looks like it's got plenty of life in it - would a new one really be efficient enough to compensate for it's contruction over keeping the old one??? I like the survival of the fittest scenario (in theory), in the words of the late Ronald Ray-gun (spitting image version anyway- whilst hitting the Nuke button): 'I say let's give the ants a go!'