davidwort

Not sure on the K&N part numbers, but the 16v engine used the mk1/8v k-jet engine air box and filter up to 1989 when they changed to a slightly different one. 1989 and onwards golfs and corrado 16v's use the VW part 191 129 620 as do all the digifant 8v mk2 GTI's earlier 16v's and k-jet 8v golfs and sciroccos use VW part no. 113 129 620

summit wrong there, all the filters i've seen for the 16v Corrado and late golf 2 16v have the fins in the filter the other way around, VAG paper ones, aftermarket paper ones and the Jetex equivalent of a K&N. Despite what the website says I think the application is wrong, try searching on element size instead.

GSF front mounts have been fine for at least a couple of us, it's the rears that are problematic, way too hard compared to OEM.

Get the circlip from a scrapped passat of a similar age or order one from a VW dealer. The play in the selector mechanism is pretty usual, bad design, it can be improved with a later corrado shift tower but not much, all new parts would be very expensive. Another option is the complete mk4 type cable change setup, including mk4 cables and gear lever unit, you'd need to drop the downpipe for that though.

I'll soon find out! The track rods are different lengths (plus axle on the VR6 and GTI mk3 golfs), but in theory the VR6 golf rack I have will fit in my early 16v, I'll have to swap over or get new rods and ends and I've also got a later 22 spline UJ to fit the later racks 22 spline input shaft (early ones and all mk2's are 36 spline). The corrado racks all seem to be the same quicker ratio than the mk2 8v golf (16v mk2 is same part as early 4cyl. Corrado's) Mk3 VR6's 16v and 8v GTI's and SEAT ibiza's, polo estates, and seat toldeos with the 2.016v all seem to have the same rack too, 8v non GTI racks from these types of car may fit but will be different ratio's lock to lock. James fitted a SEAT rack to his 24V VR6 Corrado with no trouble and that item was a part number which supercedes the 2.0L 16v corrado rack so I can't see why not, see steering thread - warning, v-long! For any mk2 8v golf I'd imagine these VR6/16v racks will go in (with the right UJ's and rods), just be faster ratios. David.

Nothing you can service yourself, new, re-con or S/hand needed. I've heard bad reports of some re-con racks (leaking soon after fitting) but they should come with a 12 month warranty. New ones from VAG are prohibitively expensive, so I'm going to try my luck with a fairly recent s/hand one off a mk3 golf myself.

In theory, they (and their stick on holders) should fail the MOT for obstructing the front windscreen.

I'd imagine the valving that opens to give assistance in that direction is on it's way out.

In that case, get the yellow pages out and call one of the 'croming' companies (or whatever they come under), I'd imagine you'd get at least some info out of one or two of them, not so easy to find anyone to re-coat plastics.

yeah, but it should also cover: applying make-up/doing your hair (never done this one myself) eating a burger whilst holding a 'thick-shake' in the other hand undoing the wrapper on a Ginsters Pasty/opening a packet of crisps (then consuming) drinking from a tinny whilst smoking reading the paper etc, etc... Never did understand why a specific 'crime' like this had to be written into law, thinking about it, probably either to give a few politicians good publicity or just to scare a few people into obedience.

looked into this a long time ago and I was told the cost was pretty prohibitive, special vacuum process or something as the parts are plastic. It almost always works out cheaper to buy new (if available) or second hand replacements.

mark the plastic cam belt cover arrow with white paint/tippex and the small notch in the side of the bottom v belt pulley (the big inner one), if you're worried about the exact timing point, line them up by turning the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley bolt and look in the timing hole on the top of the gearbox. This has a TDC and 6 degrees advance mark and a 'v' notch in the gearbox casing. This mark is just more difficult to get at with the strobe light.

Prepare for some knuckle scraping, it's a horrible job. All I can remember is that the rivets are big ones, I don't think the size has to be perfect either. My biggest problem was drilling out the old rivets from the s/hand unit I put in the car, bits of the rivets pushed through into the rubber mounting. :x I'm sure there's some more posts on this hidden away somewhere, not searched for them myself though. thinking about it a bit more, you need to drop the window a bit to undo the bolts holding the glass into the regulator, holes in the internal door skin to reach these, then tape the glass up with duck tape or similar. The ball shaped ends of the lifting arms pop out of the plastic wheels to remove from the runner. then there's the drilling out of the 3 motor rivets and the ones in the centre of the door holding the central support of the reg. the reg sort of hooks onto the inner door skin too so won't just fall down with the last rivet removed. David.

I don't think the mk2 switch has illumination of the light symbol on the switch, there's one pin less on the connector block.

generally works out cheaper to buy a complete suspension kit, flog the springs that come with it on, and buy H&R's etc separately.

Koni TA's and Eibach springs is actually pretty civilised, I have been running the Koni's on the softest setting though, it's a massive improvement over the Boge uprated dampers i was using before, the front's were bearable but the rears were also gas and far too hard. As soon as i fitted the Koni's it pretty much transformed the ride, it's still pretty firm, the Eibachs always are, I still try to avoid any holes or bumps in the road but it's perfectly comfortable for a daily commuter. David.

Not the same components, but my 16v has got harder to get the slight negative camber I need the lower the car has got, it was OK on koni's and eibach springs but when I put lowering caps on the front springs I now get barely any negative camber on max adjustment, the wishbones are slightly upwards pointing too, I'm thinking of going back to the standard front spring caps as at least the wishbones were level at that ride height.

yeah, it's great for chucking the car around, the engine feels like it's welded into the bay... and that's exactly the problem too :lol:

Corrados after 1992 have bar type hangars, golf 2's have hooks, so no, unless you weld different brackets to the exhaust.

it's going back to GSF, I've loosened all the bolts and it's no better, it vibrates like hell at idle :x Driving is a little better but there's more vibration all the way through the rev range. Looking at the old VAG mount again i don't think it's that badly worn, it's just that the GSF one has virtually no movement and obviously transmits all the engine vibration because of this. Anyone have any idea how much a new one should move, say if you clamp the body in a vice and try to bend the top plate? The old VAG one pivots but probably only a cm in any direction. (Crasher?) Jim, my GSF front one has been fine too. bcstudent, I nearly ordered a FEBI one from there, but being a cheapskate it was going to be a bit more because of the postage... that backfired :roll:

no, good point, was getting a bit late last night, will slacken the top mounting nuts on each mount and drive it about slowly for a bit. The other mounts are newish so will have been tightened up with the old (probably a bit sunken) rear mount in it's old position.

use ATP on the funtions list, you can search over all VW's and Audi's then if you want.

OK, despite best advice I went for a GSF rear engine mount for my 16v. The original is 16 years old and 150K on it. But for 40 quid with a 'Corrado club/forum' discount :) I thought I'd give it a go. Not a difficult job, but having a lowered car doesn't help with access to the bottom fixing bolt on the off-side (wishbone in the way), and the sliding jack built into the MOT ramp wouldn't fit under my front splitter :roll: had to gently lift the car with a 6ft bottle jack :lol: A bit of jiggling a lifting the engine a cm or so and it came out easy enough. Side by side the mounts look very similar, only visual difference is two tiny location lugs on the bottom brackets to help line it up for the bottom 17mm bolts. Movement in the mounts was massively different though, the new one hardly budged when twisted/bent but the old one moved several cm from side to side although I wouldn't say it was shot. On the car it is a bit problematic though, despite the new mount looking the same design and having the same type of hydraulic centre (I was told by GSF) the vibration into the car is much more noticeable, there is a noticeable improvement to the handling feel of the car and I'm sure the gear change is better but the question is: will the vibration reduce as the mount beds in??? I can't imagine how much vibration you'd get from a solid rubber Vibatechnics type mount on a 4 cylinder :shock:

Early 16v's didn't have electric windows as standard, but many were fitted with aftermarket electric windows at the dealers (and they're poor quality), the way to tell is if the system has one touch operation, as the aftermarket ones have no control module, the other way is that the glass wobbles around and doesn't go up straight :lol: A few corrados have headlight washers and some have electric headlight adjustment, the latter mainly on RHD cars bought abroad originally. ABS was also an option on pre 92 16v's.

I've set the geometry both ways in the past, never had any problems with the rack and not really noticed if it steers further one way than the other. I agree with you that clamping the wheel and doing both sides avoids having to re-set the wheel, I think this is common practice these days partly due to airbags, of course the old mk1's only had one side that adjusted anyway! But with mine being badly corroded on one side and only moving a limited amount even after ages heating it etc etc. I've done it by taking off the wheel afterwards too, no adverse tyre wear, centering problems, but that is on a 16v, not that I think that makes much difference.