davidwort

can't quite remember, but I thought the torx screws were accessible from the sides with the roof tilted up but not having to remove the interior trim panel? - no probably not, they're on the inside aren't they :) After fiddling around for a while I discovered the best way to remove my interior panel was to tilt the roof up about 1/3 of the way and then pull the tilting bit of the lining backwards, it's a bit stiff but it should come away and slide back slightly, then will drop down flat and you can slide the whole lining back into the main headlining of the car leaving the metal roof still in the slightly tilted position. Careful you don't push the lining too far back and lose it in the roof though!

If you look at the back of the headlight unit, the connector has 3 pins, earth, dip, main-beam feeds. Un-do the cap and the wiring inside the headlight unit splits the main beam feed to both the main unit's second filament and the spot light inner portion of the light unit.

nothing wrong with my 16 year old/150k ones, the selector cable doesn't do a great deal of work anyway, I can't say 100% that they don't stretch a bit over time, but I'd have thought the adjustment at the top of the gearbox would more than make up for that.

there's not really much to go wrong with a cable, unless it's end connector shears off, they do wear a bit, but I've never seen a cable that prevents a gear being selected on it's own.

If it's really the cable, then mk3 golf ones (note smaller engined mk3's have rod change boxes) are the same part, so just buy a second hand one off a golf. Are you sure you've not just moved the adjustment too far, or that the black plastic bit isn't partially bust?

Don't think it's the ratio's, as the 1.8 16v actually has the lowest/closest ratios of all the corrados, it's more to do with the 7,200 limiter on the 1.8!

have you checked the tension of the V belts since the replacement, they do stretch from new.

what year car (does it have ABS) do you have worn disks still on the car? Did you let the entire system drain? Have you bled the clutch pipework too? David.

as long as you don't mess with the gearstick end of things it's pretty easy to adjust. each cable has a 13mm nut where it joins the selector unit on top of the gearbox, get a friend to waggle the gear lever from left to right to identify the left/right movement cable and slacken that nut and move slightly on it's fitting. (no 32 to left of 51 on diagram) there's nothing stopping you manually moving the selector unit to make sure you can actually engage 5th in the gearbox first, just to make sure it's not a box problem. If it's a later car (92 on), with the shift weight, then it may be that the black plastic part (51 on diagram) where the cable clips on to the selector tower has started to crack and break up, this is a common fault and a cheap part to replace from the dealer. David. BTW, the diagram shows both early and late systems, later one above.

like the look of that, cheers for the link, might wait and see if halfords have anything in the sales this year, but that one's definately on my short list 8)

just added a note to my original reply (3) means 180 degrees.

if you buy a box of headbolts they often specify the torque/tightening method on them, e.g. stage 1 stage 2 then 180 degrees.

here you are Oh, and (3) means 180 degrees in one or two movements.

4/108's on audi's :(

I buy all sorts of rubbish from screwfix, great 'on the bog reading' but I'm a bit dubious about the quality of some of their kit, not being able to see it in the flesh, Halfords Professional range does look good though. there's a few US PRO and Sealey items on e-bay, but have no idea how good they are.

I'm on the search for a tool chest, traditional red, blue, black, whatever, don't really mind - and It's for home, DIY car use. What I'm after is something that's going to last and I can keep my ever growing sets of sockets, ratchets, spanners etc in. I'm not after a rolling cabinet yet, but would like something along the lines of a cabinet top box, big enough for a fair few tools but not so big I can't hump it into the car boot occasionally. Halfords stuff looks OK, that's the only kit I've really had a good look over close up, but I have no idea whether ball bearing runners are really worth it, all I know is I don't want cheap and nasty and Snap-On would be overkill. Something around 100-150 quid perhaps? Any advice greatly appreciated. David.

no worries there from my experience, even with the extra voltage running to the bulbs through the relays and 80/100W bulbs it's done no damage yet to my reflectors and they've been set up like this for over 6 years now.

I never did get my dealer to order the correct pulley for my 16v, gave up on them in the end, I learnt far more mooching about a couple of scrapyards than talking to any parts staff. In the end I got a 90amp passat alternator (had a 65 before) complete with the right sized pulley for 10 quid second hand and it's been fine for 2 years.

you can still use your 9A injection, but ideally the ecu needs a new chip to fuel the engine appropriately (another 200-300 quid properly mapped) 185bhp is not out of the realms of possibility, particularly with some high lift cams, but I'd be a little dubious about spending all that money with no warranty on the engine. Having said that, to build an engine like that yourself from new parts would set you back more. It's not something to run away from, but for 400-500 quid you could get an equivalent head done on your own engine, throw in a second hand KR inlet cam and you'll be close to 170bhp anyway, that extra 10 or so bhp is really down to peaky cams, which aren't to everyone's taste on a heavier Corrado anyway, you may be better off for driveability with a 20 quid KR inlet :) David. Oh, and he should pay you to take the power rohr pipe!

I think the outers is a 'plus axle' thing, all 16v and VR6 mk3 golfs use them. The 4 cyl outer joints are the same as 16v/G60 mk2 golf only.

voltage at the lights should be way higher if you have a relay setup, you've basically got a straight feed from the battery to the bulb, make sure you have a decent earth though. Relaying up the lights also allows you to use 80/100w bulbs instead of standard 55/60's, there is a massive difference if it's done right. It's worth wiring it up yourself and using separate relays for left and right, don't forget to waterproof all of the connectors and the relays and fuses as best you can, every loom I've seen recently is corroded to bu99ery.

what's different I don't know, but they're not the same part number, I do know that the 16v subframe has horse shoe shaped locators for the rear wishbone bush location and the mk2's used a sleeve on the wishbone bolts, but I don't know if that's all.

As long as it's not off an automatic, all the 4 cylinder sub frames are the same part number.

check the reflectors too, if the car has only had headlight glasses replaced the original reflectors may well be quite yellow and corroded.

I think I've just worked out how to buy a decent Corrado VR6... don't ...buy an 8v C and a Passat instead :wink: