davidwort

depending on the metering head and whether or not the anti-tamper cap is still in place, some just have a hole, others a metal tube sticking up, but all are adjusted by inserting a long 3mm allen key, so you won't see anything like a screw head visible.

don't fiddle with (1) I think it's factory set and the ecu should take care of mixture. (2) should be the vacuum pipe that opens the air flap in the lower half of the air box to let warm air in from around the exhaust manifold for warm up when the weather is cold

Can't be that difficult to find, I bought one off a passat 16v for a tenner a few months back. Or you could buy a whole passat for 50 quid! - personally I think it's overpriced :lol: e-bay

how about just soaking it in Bio washing liquid, that stuff is great, I've used it on my dyson fine dust filters which seem like a similar material to the pollen filters.

yup, or if you're lucky, on a late one it might be ACE, which is equivalent to an ABF engined mk3 16v

think you're referring to the mk2 golf black plastic caps, plenty kicking around on various VW's in breakers, but probably not much from dealers, I'm just not sure if they fit on the later style suspension top mounts on the VR6?

a lot of people seem to go for components, 5.25" in the doors and tweeters in the dash, I've got a set of infinity's like that with the cross overs buried under the dash, but you really need a sub to get a nice overall sound going this way. 5.25's are pretty small by most cars standards these days, hence the audioscape door pods that a lot of C owners go for. Put some brown bread or dynamat or similar in the inside of the outer door skin of the doors though, makes a big difference to sound, solid feel of door and overall reduction in road noise. There's only one little pad in there from the factory. I found the dash covers come off ok if you really squeeze inwards and pull up one corner first, try each corner as one usually pops up more easily than the others.

track down a 2L 16v audi 80 in autotrader, local ads, e-bay etc... doesn't need to be MOT'd just running so you can hear the engine, then stick the bottom end in your corrado, with the exception of the sump and oil pickup pipe off your old KR it's plug and play and you'll have a good 150bhp :) there's 3 or 4 on e-bay at the moment, shouldn't cost you more than a couple of hundred quid if you can fit it yourself.

gently prise/squeeze the dash speaker covers off with your fingers, there's four lugs holding them into the dash but they should pop out with just a bit of pulling at the sides. Door speakers aren't that easy to fit as the door card has to come off and you need to find the screw heads under the backing foam on the card that hold the door pocket on from the back. To remove the grilles (which you need to do before removing the door card as there's a screw holding the card to the door underneath), put a flat screwdriver into the flat holes at the leading edge of the grille and very gently bend the screwdriver handle away from the door card, this will bend the lug very slightly and allow you to edge the grille forwards a mm or so , once both lugs are past their locking point the grille will just slide off.

I was always under the impression that a bad hall sender would result in a non starter, no signal, so no spark produced. If the problem really was load related would the hall sender be the culprit or involved?

early 16v wont have door speakers, just grotty 1 way 4" jobbies in the dash

6x4" used on loads of VW's in the parcel shelf supports, should be able to pick them up for virtually nothing, if you want uprated 6x4's you will have to cut out some plastic from the supports to fit the bigger magnets, or you may even have problems fitting some above the suspension turrets, measure before buying :)

Here's a list of a load of gear oil specs I've been able to cobble together from various sources, I must have too much time on my hands :lol: Many you can source from oilman (opieoils) or other UK retailers, some are US only.

??? Corrado is cable change 02A, golf 2 is rod change 020 you'll need a complete cable change setup to use a C box in a mk2 16v. Oh and the starter is different. I've never heard of anyone retro-fitting a rod change box and selector in a corrado and an 8v golf box would have way out ratios for a corrado 16v. 1.8 16v corrados have lower ratios than the 2L 16v's and I'm not sure those ratio's above are right either, the data sheet I have reckons all the 4cyl C's have the same ratio 1st, it's the final drives that are different along with some of the other gears (1st is 3.778) (vr6 is 3.3)

every valver on carbs (including golfs) seems to be in the same state: 'will be running properly/better' or 'developing more power' '...once they are set up properly' I've yet to see one that actually delivers the promised torque and power gains over k-jet that so many promise :) I guess there's some out there though??? What I do know is there are plenty of 160/170bhp+ valvers on standard k-jet that do good mpg and are reliable daily drivers. If you can afford it, throttle bodies, and EFI with stand alone management seems the way to go. But it might be cheaper to stick a chipped 1.8T in instead :lol:

I guess it shouldn't rise much at all, but if you did it on a very hot day and tightened it down so it pulled on as soon as you moved the lever, then I'd imagine it could start to tension itself when the weather got colder and the cables contracted??? - no idea if they expand that much but it seems feasible. If you leave it too slack you get that horrible bent up end of the handbrake cover trim :lol:

depending on the build date of your 16v (you may have the later 2.0L pulleys on your 1.8 ) the pulley arrangement is slightly different, late cars have a belt driving the ps pump only from the crank, on earlier ones this belt also drive the waterpump. You should be able to do the belt quite easily once the right bolts are loosened. you need to slacken the nut on the end of the long bolt that goes through the PS pump bracket and water pump/alternator bracket, this is the one that you can see from the engine bay looking down in front of the alternator, about 14cm long No. 18 on the diagram. You then need to slacken the bolts inside the lower alloy ps pump bracket, no.13, of which there are two No. 20 13mm bolts. A long extension bar helps here and they are fiddly to get at as you can't see what you are doing, once these are loosened slightly you can undo the nut on the side of the adjustment bolt and remove the adjuster bolt altogether, this will then allow full movement of the ps pump swinging on it's bracket (14cm bolt) and the correct length belt will come off/push on over the pulley edges. Do not slacken the bolts that actually holds the pump onto it's small bracket No. 10 there is no need. Looks pretty similar to G60 procedure I think, but this was written from my experience of doing the job on my early 16v. David.

Bit chicken and egg really, you won't get the most from high lift cams unless the head can flow better, but without higher lift cams a flowed head will be limited. But, the 16v heads do flow pretty well as standard so you will notice an improvement at the top end by just sticking in some lumpier sticks and from my experience you'll get a fair bit more power from using standard kr cams in a flowed head. I'd rather spend the money on headwork as high lift cams on the 16v are a bit too peaky for a daily driver and in particular the fairly weighty bulk of the Corrado, KR cams are a good compromise on mid range torque and top end power.

Be careful with this one, KR and 9A/6A int shafts are different as are the drive gears and ends of the oil pumps and the bung in the block, these bits are V expensive from VAG, like nr 100 quid for a little drive gear! I'm not sure which combination of parts you'd need to use a 2L 8v bottom end , you'd probably get away with just the drive cog for the end of the oil pump and the bung to cap off the dizzy hole, a bit of part number investigation on ETKA would be needed. David.

:shock: I paid 17 quid for a metal 2.0 16v VAG headgasket from Wayside Milton Keynes and 2 quid each for the bolts from GSF ???

best bet is an audi 6A engine, I've seen 150K ones that are in perfect nick, I picked a complete one up for 100 quid last year incl. head. Don't bother re-boring the KR, the cost of components makes it too expensive. Stick the audi lump in complete, swap your oil pump pickup pipe and sump (the audi one is designed for the engine fitting lengthways in the bay) and if the head is rattly or has worn guides and stem seals then simply stick your existing head on it with a VAG metal headgasket and new bolts IRO 30 quid. An ABF head will need inserts for the k-jet injectors and is the best of the 2L blocks but there's not much in it and they are much more expensive and harder to come by. I'm pretty sure you can get away with the 1.8 downpipe and manifold, the ABF isn't that much taller. read this: club gti 2L 16v thread

any passat (1988-92) or mk2 golf should be OK for the pressure hose (pump to rack) the return hoses depend on the year of car as the reservoir moved position around 1992 (both corrados and passats) to a small round one in front of the battery, so it depends which bits you need, it's usually the pressure hose that goes though.

car model? if it's for a 16v C, then Passat pipes and hoses fit (8v or 16v passat). Ring one of the VW breakers (back of a VW mag) or try to find a breaking passat locally.

that's what the fuel filter nr the tank is for :)

they don't really need servicing and only tend to cause trouble if someone tampers with them or water gets in the fuel. Some have a small filter built into the feed union, you can sling that, some have them some don't but they seem to cause trouble if they're fitted.