davidwort

not sure why you would want to do this, the KR engine has no CAT so you'd need a de-cat pipe as well as the downpipe. The manifold for the G60 is 8v so that bit wouldn't fit the 16v head, and I'm not sure if the downpipe and de-cat pipe would affect the performance of the engine, the KR downpipe with built in first silencer is designed for the 16v and flows perfectly well, the main improvement being from internally cleaning up the casting marks and polishing the 16v cast exhaust manifold. Some top end gains can be made from replacing the entire manifold and downpipe with an all in one four branch, but these can have problems knocking, cracking, heating up other components on the car and affecting low end torque, not really worth it on a daily driver IMO.

rear calipers are not G60 specific, they're the same as any mk2 golf gti or other corrado for that matter, if the calipers were on an exchange basis, unless they were completely broken, i.e. pistons damaged, which is very unlikely, then you should get the surcharge back. all the prices and surcharges are listed on ECP or GSF's website, so you can check as you said, as a motor trader or Corrado forum member you should also get around 10% discount on the list price I think. the problem with the handbrakes is that the release mechanism built into the caliper siezes up, even though the pistons may be fine, the cables should be adjusted up with the new calipers so you only get a few clicks on the lever ratchet, quite a small movement of the handbrake lever, so it may just be adjusted differently to before or may not be quite right, pain to adjust because of removing the centre console to get at the cables, easy enough to do yourself though.

good news Jim! The odd thing about these ISV's is there are so many part number variations and yet providing the hose and power connections are the same size they all seem to work on any car, I've used that VDO 2.0L one on my car and it behaves exactly the same as with the 1.8 version on??? you really need to get your wishbones sorted now, I'd fit new drop links and ball joints while you're at it, I managed to do all of this with the old wishbones and pressing in new bushes, it wasn't that difficult to do and I only used a vice and a huge socket to act as a pusher. Saved me a few quid over buying complete wishbones, but then my labour cost nothing :) David.

I started to do that and even with my best efforts using paint stripping sandpaper all I managed to do was create huge amounts of dust and still not get near the right clearance - I gave up as I was getting bored :lol:

why is everything always more complicated than you initially think. (1) my brakes were worn and starting to judder (pads OK but disks on wear limit). (2) I know, I'll take this opportunity to get some 280mm calipers on there - managed get some for a bargain price - all good so far (3) offer carriers and calipers up - B*$£^(*S! - I've just aquired a 288mm caliper and carrier :x that'll be no good then on 4 stud hubs (4) In the mean time I'll fit some standard 256's again, got some pads free (some delivery cock up at dad's work) and some Brembo disks for 25 quid the pair - bargain me thinks! (5) strip the brakes down, nothing siezed - good, offer up the new pads and disks, all slots in, push back caliper pistons :mad: just wont clear the thickness of the pads and disks :x :mad: (6) check the disk and pad thickness with a gauge, disks fine 20mm, pads = 1mm too wide each of them :? :x :mad: - according to haynes manual which seems to be right. The pads are Lockheed, almost identical part number to the backs of the old ones and have Corrado on the label??? (7) sunday late pm, so I'm forced to fit either totally dodgy brakes or one new pad and one old one, which of course requires sanding flat and level to work flush against the new disk surface :roll: (8) now looking forward to doing it all over again with the right pads, or finally tracking down some 280's, such a satisfying days work...

so, did you get a new switch? mine is leaking a tiny amount but I think it's just the old washer, keep putting it off as it's not easy to get at and I know coolant will just piddle all over the place while I struggle to get the new one screwed in :lol:

if you get stuck in traffic eventually the car will overheat, but in the current temperature I'd imagine you'll be fine, just make sure you've got no major leaks from the fan switch.

GSF do the fan switches fairly cheap, don't think they stock the fibre washer though, have to go to VAG for that. Make sure you get a 3 pin one that matches your old one, not a 2 pin golf single speed one. If you twisted the centre of it I reckon it's well shot, it's only meant to be tightened into the rad with the metal nut hex, pain as it's hard to get at on the car and a very wide fitting, needs to be torqued to 35Nm/26lb/ft if you're being precise.

i fink you bust de switch. It's a three pin thermostatic switch that runs your fan at two speeds depending on how hot the coolant gets, it's advisable to get a new fibre washer from VAG when switching them over from one rad to another or it will leak. Nothing wrong with the way you filled the coolant up but it's best to leave the top hose loose and keep squeezing the air out of it. the full system takes over 6 litres of water and anti-freeze but as long as you get about 5 in you can then just keep topping up the header tank after a few runs, sometimes it takes a while to get all the air out.

:? 'twisty plug' err... can you describe it a bit more or get a pic? I hope you don't mean the fan switch :shock:

yep, any car from 1992 onwards has to have one, all UK 9A corrados have a CAT, for some reason 9A and G60 downpipes have different part numbers, don't know why, I thought even though the 8v G60 has a different manifold, 8v and 16v downpipes are basically interchangeable as long as both cars are pre cat or with cat. Although a G60 might run OK with a decat pipe I'm sure the 16v's are affected by not having a CAT or front box on the downpipe so the hot gases can expand, although top end the 2L 16v probablt benefits from not having a restrictive CAT, low end may be a different story. Perhaps it's becasue of the forced induction that G60's aren't affected???

1.8 has hooks, 2.0 has hangars, you can modify either exhaust with the right fittings but it needs a bit of welding and the right fittings, I wouldn't think adding the right fittings to the car body would be easy or a particularly good idea. G60 has a cat so the downpipe is different, the 16v also needs the expansion chamber so a de-cat pipe and a G60 downpipe probably wouldn't give the best performance.

nope, a passat one would be the nearest although the rev counter units would need to be swapped unless you find a passat GT

perhaps it's just a standard loom regardless of engine on that age of car, doesn't appear to be engine specific on ETKA. My 1.8 16v has a single connector there, but it appears to just be an ignition switched live and an earth (red and brown wires) I assumed it was part of the loom for illumination of the rear ashtray or something, never checked it really. If your problem was the hall sender in the dizzy I'd imagine the car would refuse to start though. David.

the idler pulley isn't on the same drive belt as the ps pump, it's the inner one that runs to the alternator. the outer belt drives both water pump and ps pump. check the idler pulley with the belt off, the outer ring should turn over the inner part (they don't spin it's just to allow a bit of variation in drive speed from the main water pump pulley) but most of them make some chatter or rattle, only replace if the dry bearing material inside is breaking up and falling out. VW want stupid money for these, I bought one new from Volksapart a few years ago now, cost about 70 quid IIRC - bad enough. David.

I was under the impression that MK3 GTI's both 8v and 16v were 280mm, and VR6's were 288mm. My calipers and carriers were on a GTI, definately not a VR6. not quite, they were all 280 up to about 1995 when the vr6's went to 288's.

really odd then, I can only assume I've picked up a 288mm caliper from a 2L 8v :roll:

I eventually decided to cut into my loom on the power feeds to the lights, but I have fitted sheathed connectors that are male and female so I can easily by-pass the relays, you never know!

yep. I've fitted 4 relays each with their own fuse, one for each side, main beam and dip with direct earths back to the battery. Works well and if a relay sticks I'll only loose lighting on one side. As they're under the bonnet I've fitted them in a screw lid box from Maplins, they still look perfect after 5 years, not like the green copper oxide I've seen on more and more cars with exposed relays and connectors. You have to remember that on main beam the power is split to the main light main beam element and also the inner spot bulbs, if you use one relay that's a lot of current through one circuit, especially if you fit 100W main beam bulbs.

I think the G60 pump has a specific angle to the outlet/inlet connection to the hoses, although the basic pump is the same as many mk2/3 golfs and passats, if you find a SEAT or VW pump which looks like it will fit the hoses OK just watch out for the 2 common lengths of shaft from the pump body to pulley, this varies depending on if a car uses a V belt or serpentine belt for the alternator.

sidelight is a separate small bulb, dim dip uses a feed through the resistor to the dip beam element of the main bulb, this is why using your dip beam feed to the bulb from the back of the headlight causes the relay to trip on sidelight setting, 'cause the dip beam feed is getting the low feed through the resistor. Both dim dip and dip feeds end up at the same connector at the back of your lights.

so which hoses do you have on your 288 setup, aren't the long golf 3 ones too long for the C?

The current is enough to trip your relay into switching on. So you get dip beam on the sidelights setting. It's because you use the main feed to the lights as the switching feed for you relay.

that's the odd thing, I've got one caliper and carrier off an 8v 2L mk3 gti (which looked bog standard to me, the carrier took a good crack with a strong arm to remove - everyting looked factory original to me) and the caliper has a banjo fitting. Looking on ETKA it seems as though the VR6 corrado changed it's brake part numbers late in the chassis numbers as both caliper and carrier change (to the mk3 numbers) but on 280mm disks, not 288, they're all different again. Another odd thing is the caliper has a retaining spring (288mm style) but as I said, I can't see this old M reg 8v has had 288's fitted, should've measured the old disk!, it's probably still lying where I dropped it. The late Corrado VR6 part number for hoses changes to the longer 435mm 1H0 number too. chassis no. 50-N-000001 >> As I've got one caliper and carrier now I guess I'll just have to strip my drivers side down and offer everything up. Anyone got an old G60 disk I can have to check it all fits :)

Anyone know if the 280mm calipers fitted to the mk3 golf GTI/VR6 fit with G60 disks on a 4 stud Corrado hub. The golf 3's have longer brake hoses and a banjo type connection to the caliper body itself. The hose connects to the brake lines further up inside the wheel arch too, making the hoses about 10cm longer than the corrado ones. I should be able to find a brake hose from a local motor factor with the banjo fitting that is nearer the right length for the Corrado, but I'm not sure about the caliper and carrier fitment as they do lok a little different from either of the Corrado types. The main reason for not using the G60/VR6 calipers and carriers is I can get the mk3 bits much much cheaper (like like 10 quid per caliper and carrier) and the parts are newer and much lower mileage than any Corrado bits I've found. BTW, it looks like the very last VR6's might have had mk3 style brakes? cheers, David.