davidwort

If it's anything like my dad's A6 then you don't really notice the red light much at all, only when you reach for things on the dash and it makes you glow :)

coming in 2007, the all new VW Fart well that explains the Corsa Trip then, (that would be 'Corsa Fahrt' in German?)

yep, head off new guides pressed in, and there's quite a few of them, you might be lucky and only need the exhaust ones done though. I wouldn't attempt to clean the engine out with Redex etc... you might cause more trouble than leaving it alone, regular oil changes and a good thrashing is best for the valver :) - 'Italian tune up'

depends what you're after, there's pros and cons of each. A four branch can be noisy, crack, loose low end power and the heat can damage parts of the car. But it can provide better top end flow for a highly tuned car. A standard manifold can be flowed/polished to improve things a bit and I can vouch for this with a standard downpipe working well on a modified 16v (180bhp). As a daily driver I'd probably stick to the standard stuff and I've not seen back to back proof that a four branch gives any more power anyway, the old 8v engines definately improved with a four branch but then that's a very different head and manifold. I don't think VW did too bad a job from the factory TBH.

from CCGB site: Volkswagen followed its tradition of naming cars after winds, by naming the Corrado after the Spanish for 'wind current or Jet Stream'. 'Corrado' is derived from the Spanish verb 'Correr', which means to Run or to Sprint ( hence the 'Club' magazine is called The Sprinter ) The prototype, however, was given the less impressive name of the 'Typhoon' (source: 1987 issue of Car & Driver) In fact the original prototype was called the Taifun before being changed.

I personally would leave well alone if the engine runs nicely, most valvers burn a bit of oil, in fact that doesn't do any harm at all. Providing it passes the emissions, which are not that stringent on a KR, then I'd wait until it really needs work doing. If you are dubious about the timing chain, then take the cam cover off and have a look, they tend to last pretty well as they are constantly running in oil. Bear in mind that you will be looking at shelling out for: a timing chain head gasket and bolts inlet manifoild gaskets exhaust gaskets (studs and nuts) stem seals cam cover gasket coolant change and possibly: injector seals cam belt and tensionner oil change anything else you damage (or looks to old not to replace) when taking the head off spline tool set torque wrench that soon adds up. Also, it may be hardened stem seals, but more likely worn guides, in which case your oil burning will just come straight back if they're not done.

My old Jetta 8v one started to fail at about 150,000 miles and 13 years old, same pump design.

allegedly derived from the spanish correr meaning 'run', hence the CCGB magazine 'The Sprinter' or it could be named after this: clicky

Because the VR wishbones have locating 'horse shoes' for the bushes, the valver/G60 platform doesn't. I've heard that said before when the rear bush bolt sleeves (golf 2 parts) were being discussed - but I'm not so sure, when I changed the wishbones on my 1990 16v it definitely had the locating 'horse shoes', I've had this car for many years and the subframe and wishbones were all original parts. David.

The bearings in question that wore out prematurely on mine are VTECH. I know the VTECH rears last 2 months (I'm not joking) but the fronts were apparently OK-ish....but clearly not if they last 2 years. TRW are the OE supplier to VW for track rods, Ball joints and CVs etc. SKF are the OE bearing supplier. Febi/Bilstein don't come close in quality. You have a valver, I have a VR. Different loadings and weights so your experiences of said parts can't be compared to mine and we probably have different driving styles too, not to mention mine does over 20,000 a year. fair enough, but I'm sure I've had SKF bearings from GSF?

you're not joking, in it's first 4 years on the planet my mk4 has had two new coilpacks, front arb bushes (clonk, clonk, every bump) PS hose, window regulator, temp sender, rear window isolation switch stuck, rear washer hose filled the boot with water, timing belt tensionner destroyed itself (just stopped car in time) and it's got loads of rattles on it's soft standard suspension. My corrado had one heated washer nozzle in it's first 8 years. David.

I thought Bilstein/FEBI were OEM suppliers, loads of my GSF chassis bits have been FEBI. I've also never had problems with GSF bearings either in 18 years of driving old VW's. In fact I've had more problems with faulty VAG parts, not to mention the defective stuff on cars from the factory, coilpacks, sensors, timing tensionners... David.

if you search the forum you'll find some threads relating to this, the mk3 golfs with the cable change box, i.e. the bigger engined cars, 2.0, 16v, VR6 - all use the same cables as the Corrado, Passat ones are longer. David.

do you mean stub axle, no.6 in diagram?

Lets hope it's a bit lighter than the Eos, which (in v6 form) weighs in at 1600-1700kgs depending on options, which is over 100kgs heavier than a new passat diesel estate :roll: Imagine a mk2 GTI with another GTI strapped to the roof rack.

My alarm had a separate box wired in nr the fusebox for the window and central locking. Had the car for a couple of years before I found out. One day I had the dash undertray out and must have nudged the wiring and all of a sudden my windows wound up when I set the alarm! You need to check the feed from the alarm/electrics activation box to the c-locking system, my alarm module inside the car had a pretty poorly fitted inline fuse which the contacts were dodgy on.

it's really not that bad, took me a couple of minutes per side to pull the new ones in, about an hour to cut, burn, prise, hack the old ones out :lol:

My 16v also handles well on all new standard mountings, if you've got the rear beam off anyway most of the work is in removing the old bushes, once that's done it's fairly easy to pull in the new OEM mountings using nothing more than a large nut and bolt to act as a puller and some big washers and a bit of extra packing to fit the curved face of the mounting. Smear a bit of grease inside the beam to help it slide in. If you go for poly rear bushes they may be easier to fit but they will transfer more noise, don't give the passive rear steer effect on hard cornering and are more likely to make the car twitchy in the wet.

mmm, Toyota wanted 500 quid for an indicator stalk for a 1988 Carina a couple of months back :shock: makes VW look cheap.

make that Northamptonshire :lol:

bummer, the old 8V's weren't interference and the worst thing was getting stranded somewhere.

you can't expect an off the shelf chip to work properly with an inlet cam from another engine, what engine/spec was the chip programmed for? a custom remap is the best way to get the most from a specific set-up, then you'll know things are optimised for your own engine. Providing the compression is OK, the injectors and fuel pressure/delivery is OK, you've got decent fuel and the ignition timing is right then I'd expect to see around 150 bhp. The main fuel map on the 9A is determined by the design of the air flap and funnel, the ECU can just tweak things to enable the car to run cleanly for the CAT, but it does give a limited route for re-chipping. Stealth know these cars pretty much as well as anyone, I'd definitely go with their advice, but there's a lot you can do to eliminate problems before paying them to do a final rolling road tune-up. That chip/ECU seems the most likely suspect to me. David.

Is that price right?? I could go out and buy a top C with god knows what done to the car for less than that! What price should i be looking at? Thanks Stu you get what you pay for, 1.8T 225, low mileage or fully rebuilt isn't going to be cheap then you're looking at ECU remapping, rolling road time, new intercooler, custom radiators and the like then the labour cost of fitting, it's not going to take an afternoon. you can bet that along the way you're looking at buying new VAG only sourced parts and fabricating bits too. To have the knowledge and equipment to do all of this and then have a profit margin on top, well, you can see why reputable tuners would start with figures like 7 grand. David.

anyone de-badging a 16v?, I'd like to re-badge mine :) I'm after just the little rear 16v badge. David.

I'm not running very low but I find a slight angle on the approach to speed hump helps, i.e. get one front wheel rising before the other, providing you can do it without oncoming traffic thinking you're trying to take them out :) How about a citroen hydraulic suspension mod?