davidwort

nice gater :)

Yeah, I had heard that the 16v golf ones are completely different to the C's :wink: cause of the rod change 020 gearbox.

Nothing wrong with a properly machined OEM flywheel, just get it done by a reputable company that knows where to take the metal from!

seems a lot of dosh for what you could effectively get done by machining your existing flywheel (IRO 80-100 quid in the UK?) You don't want to loose too much weight on a road car as it will affect idle and smoothness if you go too far. David.

yeah don't fancy hot-wiring it like Tempest and Supercharged did before Inters :)

should be 068919081 oil pressure switch 1.4bar 1 pin black if it's leaking from it's washer nip it up a bit more, if it's leaking from the top replace it before it pisses oil out :) GSF: 93447 OIL PRES SWITCH VW/AUDI PETROL ENGS 98> 1 PIN BLACK(1.2>1.6 BAR) 4.50

the part number is on it! to be fair it's difficult to see, underneath and needs cleaning to read often, but it's a standard black top oil pressure sender (not temp), if you need one I've got a couple from my KR sat in a tub in the garage. David.

That's mad, I'm sure someone would send you a tensionner from the UK far cheaper, don't use a second hand one, GSF sell them for 18 quid, 22 including VAT (for EU countries) and you can enquire about postage etc.. here: mailto:[email protected] If the tensionner is smooth and quiet running on it's bearings and has only a tiny amount of play it'll be OK, but as it's all off I'd replace both belt and tensionner. David.

I guess like the original thread on crank end resurfacing you mentioned. 35 quid! not as much as some VW pulleys are new, but there must be loads of these second hand kicking around, one off an old mk2 golf 16v would do, wouldn't pay more than a fiver for one me :) David.

cheers all, I remember Tempest saying the job can be a pig as some cars seem to have a hidden grub screw for locating the switch that requires the column is taken apart by breaking the two shear bolts???

right, same thing happened to mine, pulley bolt came loose and the vibration cause the same damage. If you can make sure the round flat face of the end of the crank (mating face for the pulley) is a smooth surface (if corroded then that's when you might need the resurfacing tool) then you can just whack a new (or second hand) pulley on the crank. Just make sure you use a new (and correct part number) bolt. as long as the key lug fits the notch cut out on the crank it's the bolt torque that holds the pulley in place so it'll be fine. But as advised by crasher, be careful with loc-tite, it shouldn't really be used as it can squeeze out of the threads and affect the face to face mating surface of the pulley and crank end. Mines been fixed for several thousand miles now and is fine, even with the loc-tite! I have marked the pulley and bolt with blobs of white paint though, just to see if the bolt ever turns, because I'm paranoid now! David.

here we go 1.8, but 2.0 is basically same, note top pulley mark is 180 deg out, should be at top. flywheel mark is shown, not the 6 deg mark that is also close to it, one is often marked with a '0'

yep, similar thing to me on my old boge dampers, I did find though on the Koni's I then fitted, that to trim what I needed off the stops meant that the dust covers hit the spring baseplate occasionally, so I had to trim these down a bit, problem was I overdid it and then they didn't protect the top of the shocks enough. You have to be pretty careful to get everything set right depending on ride height and suspension travel. David.

1990 K-jet 16v, I've noticed on my cold and hot starts (both behaving the same) there's a bit of a delay sometimes in turning the key to actually turning the car over, was wondering if this was a symptom of a failing ignition switch? Sometimes it's a heart stopping pause before it decides to turn over and fire up, always works in the end but It's obviously starting to warn me about some impending disaster :) cheers, David.

OK, you drive a pink Figaro then :wink:

they're so, so dull, it's not even 'Passat' as someone mentioned, think new Jetta with an ugly roof. It's just market share of the pug/megane they're after, how come Audi get it so much better? I bet the Focus drop top will piddle all over it.

Don't know how the transverse vw 4 cylinder is affected, but the old audi 80 sport had a finned alloy VAG sump that was used instead of an oil cooler on the same engine as fitted in golf GTI's, so they must help a fair bit.

:? if the ignition is retarded you'll loose power but it will be less likely to pink. Does sound like they weren't operating right though.

ya sure http://www.googlefight.com/index.php?la ... rrado++VR6 http://www.googlefight.com/index.php?la ... rrado++VR6 yeah but overall 4 pots win: http://www.googlefight.com/index.php?la ... 6+cylinder

16v vs VR6

golf has an 020 gearbox, rod change, flywheel would be different. David.

I had a bottom crank pulley work loose :shock: but it's fine with a tiny amount of loc-tite, be careful though, apparently too much can squeeze out and affect the face/flat fitting of the pulley. (there's a thread on club GTI forum about it somewhere) I'd just order the correct new part from VAG for you're chassis/engine no/reg mark on your car. If you're using the 1.8 k-jet system then 1.8 plugs are fine, I've used them for 50K miles on my 2L converted from a kr 1.8. no need to get a colder plug or anything. you can always get that tubing off scrapped cars, passats etc. but more than likely it'll be oily :) David.

the rears will be fine if they match the springs (spring rate) you have if they're uprated ones, although when I used uprated gas dampers (intended for a golf 16v) in the back of my C (boge I think) they were far to stiff even for Eibach Corrado springs :? Many of the VAG front units will fit physically but you're better off with dampers designed to match the rate of the Corrado specific springs, if you can get a set of adjustable dampers (e.g Koni TA's, inserts/legs or coilovers) then you'll be fine with most Corrado springs, I wouldn't use fixed damping legs designed for a golf though, most of the 100kg or so extra weight of the C compared to a golf is up front. David.

looks like CGTI got a nasty letter from the ex MD of TSR, they had to remove a thread where people were 'venting' about having lost money and kit due to what happened to the business: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95585

I'll have a go at translating: Is the distributor driven off the timing belt? assuming you mean a 4 cylinder, as many vr6's don't have a distributor and all vr6's have a timing chain instead of belt, then no, the distributor is driven by the end of the exhaust cam on the 16v's and the intermediate shaft on the g60 (sticks up from front of block like most 8v vw's). David.