davidwort

how about a reverse 'KR' inlet cam mod :) - a common switch for 2L 16v owners wanting a bit more top end power. The 2L corrado 16v has a milder inlet cam which will reduce your top end power but flatten and bulk out the torque curve making the car feel stronger at low and mid range revs at the expense of high end. More torque doesn't mean more power, more torque over a wide® rev range does. Changing cams will shift the torque and power up or down the rev range depending on the cam profile. The best bet for a 1.816v is more capacity, a 2L block will give a nice hike in torque and doesn't generally lead to higher fuel consumption because the engine pulls the car along more strongly from lower revs. David.

wish I had the money to go storm chasing... and storm chasing come to think of it... it's fascinating following the hurricanes here

the top pic reminds me, anyone know why the later 02a boxes don't have the bracket from the end of the box to the gearbox mount? when you see the early 02a boxes with them on it makes the later one look a bit fragile and missing quite a major support. Marked with blue arrow on the pic attached.

I reckon. It's forced induction, so the only improvement you need is colder air - save up for a decent intercooler :)

After years of trying things myself and talking to tuners, other owners and reading other peoples experiences of different air-box/inlet mods, I've come to the conclusion that: a) the standard factory stuff is best on most cars, including the snorkel b) panel filters in place of the paper filter are OK but really just give you a re-usable filter c) drilled boxes, removing the snorkel etc.. just makes more noise (only nice on a VR IMO) and often actually reduces torque The G60 obviously benefits from cold air as it's F.I. so a cone filter is pointless without proper shielding and air supply and anything other than the factory paper filter is dubious for filtration which could leave you with a sort of grinding paste in the charger - do you want to risk that! One thing I'm pretty sure of is that the standard 16v inlet system is not restrictive, how else could people get close to 200bhp on the standard system? The air-flap is the main limiting factor for 200bhp+ normally aspirated 16v cars and the only way to replace that is throttle bodies and a stand alone ECU! David.

108 at the wheels is about bang on for a standard healthy 1.8 16v, if you take off a more conservative 15-20% loss through the transmission the engine is pretty close to the VW figure of around 130-140bhp although that torque figure looks good for a 1.8.

there's two switches for the fan, the one on the front left of the head (as mentioned) which is to keep the engine bay temp down to prevent fuel vapourising in the fuel lines, and the 2 stage one on the bottom of the rad. Both can fail in a couple of ways so fitting new ones should cure it. If you disconnect the one on the head then you can test if the fan is still coming on too early, if it does then it's the rad one which is up the creek. The rad one is cheap from GSF but you need a new washer too, the other one may be a VAG dealer part only, but you can find them on passats, golfs and audi's second hand.

heard bad reports about 'quick fit' type places using these to save time, I guess if you use them properly and carefully it'll be pretty good, but I prefer to let it drip away for an hour or two on it's own. The sump plug is the easy bit I always find, it's the filter I always make a mess with :) David.

saw it in the flesh at Inters, looked every bit as good as the photos - 8) David.

An early golf mk2 16v ECU is apparently a good mod for the K-jet 16v Corrado if you run it on super unleaded, has a more agressive advance curve apparently. David.

you're probably putting the wrong fuel in it, 92-95p sounds like regular unleaded, and the 16v prefers 97/98 RON or more (check your filler flap label!) it could be pinking like hell around town. 1.8 16v's have pretty poor low end torque, so town driving can really drink the fuel, then lastly as it's so old, there are a host of parts that may be worn and underperforming, not least the injectors. Do you have standard tyre sizes? I run a 2L block with an adjusted warm up regulator and 1.8 16v K-jet system and have never got below 29 to the gallon on a full tank of fuel with mixed driving, however when it was a 1.8 I did get nearer 25/gal when doing loads of town driving. This morning the MFA was reading 42.8 mpg when I got to work, that's a few miles of junctions and round abouts and 15 miles at 70-80 on the motorway, generally the MFA on mine overreads by about 2 mpg on a longish run/tankful. David.

To a certain extent, but I've found Eibach springs comfy with Koni's set to the softest setting, and everyone usually complains about them, anything higher particularly on the fronts and things then start getting harsh. Having adjustable Koni's made a world of difference over the other uprated 'fixed' damping stuff I'd tried before. David.

the wire earths through the switch/engine block, try the wire straight to an earth point e.g. the head/engine block, if your fan comes on and also comes on connected to the switch when the engine is cold then the switch is knackered. If it's the switch, I have a spare. It's usually the rad switch that causes problems though, as the coolant has a habit of leaking and then corroding the switch. David.

I'm thinking your wish list turbo may end up being cheaper :)

Passats are relatively cheap, but I prefer the look of the A4, preferably the 130 1.9, I guess you're looking at 7K plus though for the audi post 2001, don't like the earlier A4 much and they're not very good spec, air-con seems to be rare. A great spec car is the A6, very similar in size/mechanics to the passat but much better spec and trim quality. Have to say though, for 4K you're really in passat territory though.

Well, if the problem isn't sorted with a new fuel filter, I'd be hoping for the in-tank pump to be the problem as it's the cheapest and easiest to change. The main pump tends to warble (sound pitches up and down) if it's shot, they can get very loud but still work OK. David.

Only if you've got one with a rear bench seat :) ( not all valvers came with no armrest ) yeah, VW skimping again on the late 16v's in a vain attempt to make some money out of the Corrado. :roll:

:? tried sitting in the back the other day, I'm only 5'10 and my head was just about up to the headlining, it's not as bad as some coupe's but there's not a lot of room.

two small allen head bolts (use an allen socket not a key), and one small electrical connector, then the fuel line which should really have two new alloy washers, but you can get away re-using the old ones, just make sure it doesn't seep fuel on startup. you may well need the little gasket that goes between the valve and manifold too. David.

I found some of the seals can 'ride up the shaft' of the injector, out of the waisted bit, when you try to push them in, making it impossible to get them so pop into position.

remove plug leads remove top cam belt cover upper half of inlet manifold removed, vac pipes(note how these go on) two brackets behind head, 13mm nuts to lower half, you will probably need a new gasket on re-assembly 10mm nuts for cam cover new cam cover gasket and half moon seals cam belt tensionner loosened (remove tensionner and check both tensionner and belt, replace if suspect) remove cam bearing caps for inlet (in correct sequence? think Haynes lists this - you don't want to snap a cam!) and keep in order and correct way round for install check wear in cam chain, cheap so replace if suspect fit inlet cam and align dots to each other and top surface of head (RHS/dizzy end) torque down bearing caps in correct sequence re-fit cam cover with new seal and gently nip up cam cover 10mm nuts, too tight and you'll squeeze the seal out - use lock-tite fit other gubbins back, check timing belt position etc... , turn over by hand on crank just to make sure! Can't think of anything else at the mo. It's not massively difficult but would take a garage an hour or twos labour I'd have thought, 60-70 quid? maybe a bit more? David.

sounds like the cold start injector, they're a bit crude and as you start OK when hot that seems to make sense, also even if they are operating fine sometimes all the extra fuel gets sucked into one cylinder on startup and it can make for rough running for a few seconds. David.

OK, just checked and Euro are about 62p cheaper per injector, and as I have GSF local to myself will probably still go with them! Thanks though Phil, was worth checking! just out of interest, why do you need to change them? Mine have 145K on them and are 16 years old but I've no fuelling problems and the car is pretty economical, haven't checked the spray pattern lately but there can't be much wrong with them, passed the MOT on emissions perfectly yesterday too CO and HC still spot on from the tune up at Stealth last year. Seems a lot of money to spend.

You need to narrow it down, electrical or fuel related? (1) Does it turn over? - think you say it does (starter solenoid can go) (2) Have you checked for a spark? (hall sender on dizzy can die) pull a plug put it on top of cam cover and see if you get a spark on cranking. (3) have you got fuel pressure to the injectors?, does the under car pump buzz?