davidwort

Very reliable car if looked after well :) If it's pinking and hard to start it sounds over advanced, get a timing light on it it should be 6 degrees advanced at idle +/- 1 deg If it was retarded too much it would most likely be easier to start As you've just got it I'd also have a good going over of the car even if you have detailed service info, checking condition of plugs (this can tell you a lot about the fuel mixture and general tuning and engine health) and then checking the dizzy cap, leads, rotor arm air filter, vacuum lines and joints around the intake and throttle body. Get a mate to check you are getting full throttle when the pedal is to the floor. The C is a heavy car for the 1.8 16v engine and it won't feel as lively as a mk2 8v at lower revs but you'll get used to it and providing the suspension is in good nick it'll always give you a grin round the twisty bits :D Also, It should pull strongly to the 7,000 red line, if not the fuelling or electics might not be quite right. Have fun with it, David.

Don't worry! I reckon your best bet is to just let the oil warm up and drive it exactly as you normally would, TBH I don't think anything will make a lot of difference unless you abuse it and you wouldn't do that to any engine with any miles right? :) I do think an oil and filter change after a few hundred miles is a good precaution though. David.

bugger, I've got a virtually new TSR balanced 2L crank for sale. When I started to run in my brand new 6A lump I just took it steady for 1000 miles, no screaming the crap out of it and cooking it, but made sure I went up and down the rev range and generally treated it with a bit of kindness, no labouring in high gears, long runs at steady revs etc... Once i'd got about 1000 miles on it I then started giving it a bit more stick and it's gradually loosening up a bit, runs a degree or two warmer than the old bored KR block, It'll be interesting to see if that settles down a bit. Used about 1/4 litre of oil or less every 500 miles or so so far, which is reducing. I'm still only on about 1600 miles though. Looking forward to having 5-10,000 on it and getting it precisely tuned up on the rollers though, robably next spring now. One thing I did do was change the oil and filter after about 400 miles. David.

I understand that the 1800 16v are essentially the same engine jus wasnt sure of the postion of ancilaries (header tank - rad - etc) so didnt kno if the hoses fitted... Has anyone done this for sure? or are the part codes for a normal set of VAG hoses for 1800 16v corrado and golf the same? sorry if it seems like im asking the same question... jus want to make sure before i part with my money! anyone found them cheaper than £137??? you can see one blue samco on my engine pic! only 5 of the 7 golf 16v hoses will fit the corrado 16v, don't know why, haven't closely inspected a golf to compare, still worked out cheaper than 5 genuine VAG hoses though! Ones that do fit are: top and bottom rad hoses short hose from pump to water pipe 3 outlet hose to pump and oil cooler curly one from cooler to pipe David.

I agree, from my experience on 16v's even when quite heavily tuned they are very docile and easy to drive around town, I wouldn't want to compromise the smoothness I've now got on my current lump and have been advised not to lighten the 16v's flywheel, that's not to say that limited lightening would cause much of a problem, but then you wouldn't get much of a gain either. If you constantly drive your car like you're on a track day then you may be able to live with it, bit like wild cams really, you need to be careful you buy what suits your driving style and requirements. If possible try to get a drive of a car with what your planning on doing first. All that said, I did drive a mk1 GTI for a while, an early 1.6 with an 1850cc conversion and a few other mods, the 1.6 'lighter' flywheel made the 1.6 really revvy and eager compared to the later 1.8's, but then the car only weighed as much as a fag packet :) . David.

I really wouldn't spend the money on a 1.8 unless you absolutely want to keep it bog-standard, try to find a 2L bottom end 6A,9A or ABF and use that as a basis for the rebuild, you won't be sorry you spent a couple of hundred quid more and providing the crank, pistons and block are as serviceable it's all the same cost as rebuilding it as a 1.8, even the metal 2L headgaskets are not very dear. 160bhp+ and loads more torque :D :D :D David.

TSR do an SSK Kit for £423 (incl VAT) or 4 dampers for £317 The larkspeed price does look good, although I'm only really after 2 rears that can be adjusted for my eibach springs and TSR are just too far away. The idea was to try to get a reasonable price on a collection of individual dampers as at least a couple of us just want to improve on the rear height and Koni's look about the best option. I could find out what price I could get the kits for but I'd imagine they'd be about the same as larkspeed. but if people want standard height Konis or just pairs of lowered dampers and no springs then whole kits are a bit much. By all means suggest any options though. David.

Point them to the Koni group buy then :)

All per damper, i.e. 2 rears would set you back 100 quid, but then I've seen how crap Boge etc.. are in comparison and how badly they wear on non-standard springs, they're not adjustable in any way and will only be about 15 quid cheaper at best. 'You pays your money...' David.

Just received the following from Jondel Motorsport: N.B. ignore the word 'Golf' some items may be in common with the Golf but these are all the parts listed for the Corrado. - also front inserts for 16v/G60's will be approx 80 quid each - my est. all include VAT OK, So far I have: me:..... pair of rear 80-2587 Sport David Winter:..... pair of rear 80-2587 Sport 'badger':..... pair of rear 80-2587 Sport? possible fronts 'Yash'? 'coxylaad'? 'Timo'?' 'swfblade'? anyone else??? If we can get 10+ items we may get a bit more off :) If I do a group buy, the items can be picked up from Milton Keynes or Northampton or I would be prepared to drop them off elsewhere if someone covers my fuel (within a reasonable distance - don't fancy hundreds of miles) David.

OK, update as of this morning, the prices below are full retail, I'm still waiting for a quote for a group buy, which they've not worked out for me yet, would be interesting to know how this compares with anyone else who's already bought Koni's, also which items the bought for which cars. all prices from Jondel Motorsport ---------------------------------------- all cars rear 80-2587SPD2 57.50 each including the VAT :) these items suitable for lowered springs and are damping adjustable and ride height adjustable OFF the car all cars rear 8041-1108Sport 75.95 incl VAT these are fully adjustable and top adjustable on the car, they are gas pressurised and also suitable for low springs Fronts -------- VR6 for lowered springs 8710-1302SP20 top damping adjustable (£ cant read my writing :oops: I'd imagine similar to 16v/G60 price though IRO 120 quid) VR6(and late 2.0 cars chassis no 50-S-000 052 onwards) for standard ride height 8741-1259Sport top damping adjustable and gas £104.95 incl VAT 16v/G60 for lowered springs 8641-1198Sport top damping adjustable and gas: £120.50 incl VAT insert only: £91 I'll draw up a list of interested parties when I get the discounted figures up. David.

IMO, I'd sell the 16v and buy a good G60(not easy to find, I know), otherwise the cost will be prohibitive (unless you do it all yourself) and you'll only end up with a car difficult to insure anyway. I'm not saying you can't do it, but you really need the cars side by side to get everything you need off the G60 and your 16v lump is only worth 3 or 400 quid max anyway. I don't reckon it's worth the potential cost and hassle. :( David.

When the chap from Jondel rings tomorrow (or if I ring him) I'll get the prices for front and rears for both 16v/G60 and VR6, from what I could see on the application list I'm pretty sure the Koni rears are the same for both although I'm sure the standard VW parts are heavier duty for the VR. Little confusing when I spoke briefly to Vince (at Stealth) as he said they were both height adjustable and top damping adjustable, I'll get all of this checked as I thought the items I asked about were only height adjustable (don't want to confuse the two). Anyway I'll try to be as comprehensive as possible on price, fitment, features, ride height, warranty etc.. David.

Please see the tuning and engine mods section for info on a possible group buy of Koni's, ta, David

OK, I've got a couple of prices so far: single rear koni-sport (80-2587SPD2 - 5 groove and designed for lower springs) http://www.koni.com/_cars/_sport/afram.html Stealth 90 quid each Jondel Motorsport 57.50 each (plus vat, I think price quoted was ex vat = 67.56) 5 or more pairs (rears again) Stealth 78 quid (no more discount for more pairs) Jondel (ringing me tomorrow when he's sorted out some figures) Jondel and Stealth are both in easy reach for me (I'm in Northampton) feel free (anyone) to contact other places and get a quote. Jondel have always been pretty good for me and a few others and I will double check if the VAT is included in their price tomorrow (don't think so) Anyone who's interested, please make yourself known :) cheers, David.

I've spoken to my dad who works in the motor trade and has loads of part supplier contacts, he should get back to me about the supply of Koni parts in the next couple of days, at that point I'll compare prices with other places and see what route looks the best. If it looks like it's going to be worth it then we'll have a go at organising a group buy. cheers all, David.

I'll ring a few places and see how many items would need ordering for what sort of discount anyone would be prepared to give, I've pretty much decided to get Koni's now so any discount would be a bonus. I'll get back to the forum when I've got some info. Fom AMD's website (VW dampers link doesn't work) it looks like audi rears are between 60 and 80 quid plus vat each, so I'd imagine the Corrado ones won't be cheap, we'll see. TSR do full kits from about 270 plus vat. David.

Whenever I've done just the rears it's never affected the alignment etc... I've got OK front's at the moment so I'm planning on doing just the rears too, same part from Koni for 16v or vr6, how about a group buy of rear Koni's! David.

mmm, can't find any references to TA's only 'Sport' and the code numbers 80-2587Sport, 80-2587SPD2, 8041-1108Sport. After a bit of digging it looks like the 80-2587SPD2 is 5 groove and designed for lower springs. got the info from: http://www.koni.com/_cars/_sport/afram.html David.[/url]

similar problem with Eibachs on my 16v, do the Koni's have an adjustable plate that the spring sits on then? good news, as the gas has gone from one of my rear Boge's (which were too hard anyway). David.

Anyone know if the plastic guide that is attached half way down the gear lever shaft and connects at 90 degrees to the selector housing part of the mechanism wears at all? It's the sleeve of the bit that the gear lever effectively pivots forwards an backwards on, and is held in place with a circlip (see pic) It seems to be the part that's allowing quite a bit of left-right wobble/play in my gear change, and it's only a couple of quid. cheers, David.

If the front wishbone bushes are original and on their way out (mine are, at 135,000) would it be fair to say the ball joints could do with replacing too (OK at MOT but probably well worn when the weight of the car is on them), might as well do them while I'm in there? David.

:) it's got two switches in it http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/7438d34a/bc/photos/door+card+and+switches.jpg?CCPrhJBBc5IXRZjN Ideally it would be nice to have a mid range speaker (or a leather re-trim!) or something instead, but it'll do for now. David.

think I saw it before, just the single surround wasn't it? Did you dual the switch operation with the roof located one or simply replace it with the wiring to the gear lever located one? Was it difficult to run the feeds? cheers, David.

wot do you think of this? I reckon it looks better 'in the flesh' than the photo too. Much easier to use than the daft door card mounted position. http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/7438d34a/bc/photos/door+window+switch+relocated.jpg?CCImcJBBCaTizDme planning on putting the roof switch and passenger window switch in this location, doesn't look quite as good but location is not bad despite the gear lever. I saw someone else had put just the roof switch here which made me think could I squeeze two switches in the same position. http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/7438d34a/bc/photos/roof+switch+relocated.jpg?CCWtcJBBaY1j1Wst David.