davidwort

mmm, statistics and all that, I live in one of the areas apparently having had less than 65% of 'average' rainfall last year and yet from memory since I've lived here (10 years or so) we had some pretty wet years too, so I thought I'd check. Pitsford Hall weather station (nr me) has all it's records online, this is what I found: [TABLE=width: 256] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=colspan: 3]% difference from 1971-2000 mean [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]1999 [/TD] [TD=align: right]105.2 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]2000 [/TD] [TD=align: right]128.7 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]2001 [/TD] [TD=align: right]113.7 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]2 [/TD] [TD=align: right]116.3 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]3 [/TD] [TD=align: right]77.9 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]4 [/TD] [TD=align: right]104.5 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]5 [/TD] [TD=align: right]81.4 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]6 [/TD] [TD=align: right]100.8 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]7 [/TD] [TD=align: right]120.2 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]8 [/TD] [TD=align: right]107.1 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]9 [/TD] [TD=align: right]84.8 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]2010 [/TD] [TD=align: right]87.4 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: right]2011 [/TD] [TD=align: right]66.5 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]ave 99.57692 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] so over 13 years we had 99.6% 'average' rainfall :lol:

here you go, careful with the pulley though as it has the integral rubber vibration damper and the whole pulley is expensive to replace:

4 allen bolts, no need to undo the big crank bolt, but sometimes the outer pulley is a bit siezed onto to innner cambelt pulley and looks as if it is one piece, it's not and lots of people take the main crank pulley off by mistake, you then run the risk of the crank pulley bolt undoing itself if reused as I think the original one is a stretch bolt, just a word of warning :)

yes, the aux 'v' pulleys, but not the timing belt toothed pulleys need to come off.

is the fuel pump running? (buzzing) could be fuel pump relay are you getting a spark too?

it's not as much as six litres IIRC, 16v has a small radiator. Trick is to fill slowly from header tank, make sure you mix 1 litre of 50/50 water and G12 at a time and add. Someone on here once suggested using a 2L pop bottle with a hole drilled in the cap to restrict the flow out, upturned in the header tank means you dont have to pour manually for ages :) First couple of litres goes in easy, can do that just from pouring from a jug, but go slow after that, once you have 4 litres in there you have enough to protect the engine, try to get 5 in (squeeze to top and bottom rad hoses to help get air out) and then for the next couple of runs in the car top up as the air makes it's way out to the header tank. I'd prefer to mix distilled water (halfords etc) with the G12 as hard tap water can leave deposits around the engine, although G12 is good at preventing this if kept at the right strength

never really use hose on my car anyway, just get a clean cellulose sponge and wipe the water off from washing from a bucket, my water here is so hard anyway you need to sponge/leather dry quick or it stains badly, fresh water from a hose only makes this worse.

what does it do if you unplug the isv or idle switch altogther?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?67753-power-steering-pipe-thingy

does sound like ignition coil, follow dizzy king lead bakc to bulkhead to find it :) worth changing ignition switch anyway, does the fuel pump buzz? fuel pump relays often burn out as they take a big load, changing this and ecu relay may well be a good idea anyway.

vac leaks usually lead to stalling as too much unmetered air and not enough fuel (metered by the air flap before the throttle body) is getting into the engine, it's worth checking all the vac pipes thoroughly though as CazzaVR says and also any potential leaks in the inlet manifold. are you sure your throttle cable and throttle butterfly work smoothly and shuts OK? It sounds like your ISV just cant restrict the revs at all, I had this happen with an old one, but taps on the throttle usually settled it (just sticking) there's a possibility the wires to your isv throttle switch are broken, you need to get a simple multimeter and check the circuit is making/breaking

OEM rear mount - the engine torque doesn't really affect this mount much as the engine pulls back onto it (this is the one that really transmits tons of vibration if too firm on a 4cyl rado) standard or diesel mk2 GB mount, poly if you don't mind some extra vibration vibratechnics or similar front mount, solid front would vibrate on a 16v and soon crack the mounting bracket, the vibratechnics one will vibrate a little at idle but shouldn't be noticeable when driving (I have one on 16v)

which pipe is it, there are two that just run on the rack itself from one union to another - metal only, and then you've got the pressure hose from the pump and a return hose, the pressure hose will have metal unions on both ends not just a jubilee clip on one end, just follow the pipes from pump to rack and rack to reservoir and back to pump to confirm which one you have, I'm not sure from the pic, it looks like you are referring to the pressure hose from pump to rack and not the return from rack. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?45834-PAS-fuel-pump-lines-etc-supplier&highlight=power+steering+pipes this is the seller's own site http://www.powersteeringstore.co.uk/index.htm Pirtek will also make up hoses to your requirements

there's a seller on e-bay that supplies individual rack pipes and hoses I'd imagine cheaper than new from the dealer

Give it a few good runs and then take a look at the plugs kip, that will tell you all you need to know. They should just start to build small amounts of light brown deposits, if all is fine then no worries, I'd rather have a few sooty deposits starting as that means richer and so cooler combustion, plus if you rev the 16v properly they tend to run lean at the top end anyway.

great news Kip, after all that grief! with the emissions, the CO should be a little higher than that, it'll run much happier nearer 2%, perhaps get them to tweak that up a bit next time you have it in the garage although it only really affects idle, keep an eye on the plugs and make sure it doesn't run too hot, seems very lean for a k-jet, I've had my CO that low but it goes better with it higher :)

That's ATF fluid!!!! not LHM (citroen hydraulic suspension) type CHF fluid, google dexron! -- "Dexron is the trade name for a group of technical specifications of automatic transmission fluid" I was joking about the ATF :(

well at least it's not ATF :) should be fine, people will swear by VW supplied stuff and to be fair it's not very expensive in comparison, but the bottom line is VW hydraulic components use generic green hydraulic fluid in other manufacturers cars (PAS pumps in french cars for instance) and I don't think I've ever used genuine VAG stuff in a car of mine, apart from a very old golf - which the PAS pump went on :)

I'm not sure that's such a great idea, they flex a fair amount to absorb vibration, by making it more rigid you could end up with it cracking somewhere, fine for one use race/rally cars but for a long term road car I'm not totally sure.

all the earth straps good?

wow, great read, and most of all thanks for taking the trouble to write up so much detail and post with all the pics.

Check out the fixed column fitting how-to, :) http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41317-fitting-a-non-adjustable-steering-column-(how-to)

I cheated though, sometime ago I discovered ETKA can search all vag models for a part number, it's really a game to set aside for when you have absolutely nothing else to do though :lol:

should all be the same bits, straight swap.

I've used samco hoses for over 10 years now and I'm mixed about them, the material certainly lasts well, but they do have their downsides, as Kev says, they can leak where they fit to flanges as the material is more rigid than rubber (so not ideal for rad-to-engine type positions where some flexing is needed), they are more prone to damage from sharp objects/tools than OEM ones, and you need good quality hose clamps to get even pressure fitting to flanges and to prevent hose damage. Coloured ones stain badly from oil and the right 'internal' size may not have the same 'external' size which can cause fitting issues for places like header tank return hoses where they clip into plastic trim/guides. They are very resilient to heat and ideal for applications close to the engine block though where rubber ones last less well.