davidwort

Yep, everything else stays the same apart from the larger disks and slightly thicker pads

presumably the same sort of person that... no, I don't think I'll repeat what's been posted up before...

I have to agree with aide, far too many 2.0 16v's have had the factory calibrated metering head messed about with by mechanics who think the car is K-jet as it looks similar, usually to attempt to correct a running issue that is actually caused by a lambda or temp sensor being faulty, this then results in the car never running right and struggling to meet emissions. More harm done than good I'm afraid, trouble is hardly anyone knows the correct fault diagnosis and testing procedures for the KE-jet system on the 9A engine and most dealerships have long since thrown out the workshop manuals, even if their staff could read :)

Ah, the joys of the apple 'ecosystem', probably easiest to share photos on Flickr or photobucket or something and then just include the embedded links in your forum post, or just get an android phone and be able to use it how you want :)

I don't think that's right any more, I'm sure the spare's no longer part of the mot whether it's there or not.

Yes that's the gearbox reversing light switch, which won't leave your reversing light on when you turn the ignition off

What really makes a difference on the 16v engine are: Standard wheels and tyres, 15" Standard exhaust Gasflowed exhaust manifold or 4 branch all in one manifold and downpipe Gasflowed cylinder head and lower intake Higher lift and duration cams Optimised fuelling and ignition timing, if you can find someone who can still work with this system DON'T mess with the airbox, it will only lose power Lightened flywheel will slightly improve acceleration in 1st and 2nd Aftermarket ecu with electronic injectors will optimise torque But of course a 1.8t conversion would be cheaper and give more power than all of the above, if be a little soulless

Never assume... black was gloss black and metallic, two different colours, right from the early 16v and g60 cars, there's also black magic, a sort of pearlescent black on later cars.

Hi, do you have close up pics of the passenger indicator?

I was lucky enough to have a little tutorial last year with some proper alignment kit, I've seen it done loads of times but never really paid attention. I was surprised how simple and straightforward a light/laser tracking kit is. I know you can get some very fancy kit like stealth and vw dealers have but tbh for most cars a basic setup is perfectly fine. now if only my garage floor at home was actually level, in any direction :)

Only just changed a 150k one on my 8v too, pretty good considering lambdas have improved over the years too

Rust is always worse than it looks, that will be right through the panel I reckon, best get it properly sorted ASAP or it will just be harder to fix. Corrosion from behind the filler is a problem on c's now, they really need cleaning and inspecting and protecting from behind regularly due too all the crud that gets stuck up there in the arch

Over 3 degrees negative camber :lol: i just don't understand why it is so difficult for garages to get basics like geometry right, there's only track rods and suspension leg bolts to adjust FFS!

Good news! At least that answers the fuel and spark conundrum, just way too much fuel, well done on pinning that down. i had a metering head stick once when the head had been off and the system dry for a bit but never heard of one doing that.

and how is it running now with the new one?

Carparts4less (basically ecp) do a variety too for about 35 - 70 quid

I do have a 9A coil and it's filter module thing (on it's bracket) you can try on saturday just to rule that out?

So you're getting fuel and spark but it won't run :scratch: afaik the 2l has a similar arrangement to the 1.8, having a lift pump in the tank and external fuel pump and pressure accumulator under the car, without a fuel pressure test gauge and k-jet link unions it would be impossible to check the pressure. But you could remove the fuel pump relay, jump the main pins and use the battery neg lead as a switch to turn on the power, this way you can pull the injectors and spray into bottles to check the injector spray pattern and fuel delivery, on the 16v you will get fuel into all four cylinders if the cold start injector fires but none of the injectors deliver fuel from the metering head. Does it really not fire at all? i doubt it is the ecu but unfortunately don't have a 9a one to try. i also recall that unplugging the temp sensors (one on metering head too?) and the lambda would cause it to run in limp mode, or default parameters, so it may idle high but run ok, esp when warm. If you weren't getting spark i'd say hall sender or an earth somewhere. this is a puzzler.

injectors are pretty easy to check, they're just pulled from the head and sprayed into jars by jumping the fuel pump relay pins on the fuseboard whilst lifting the air metering flap to open the fuel delivery valve, no special tools needed, just observation of the fuel spray cone and measuring the amount of fuel delivered in one minute to all four injectors. fuel pressure needs a standard fuel pressure gauge, but the correct attachment unions for the k-jet banjo fittings.

I'd get your injectors checked, if they are original and over 80K miles they may well have pretty poor spray patterns and this really affects idle and part throttle fuel atomisation and efficiency. Worth getting the fuel filter changed and system pressure checked to. The cheapest generic lambdas don't seem to work very well on the 9A either.

Yep, the barrel and switch fit into it. It slides onto and clamps around the top of the column and contains the top bearing gen vw : http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=180857316392&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=78309012454 or pattern: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=110821798191&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=67388596771

Gsf have just started stocking the lock body, that's where mine came from, I'd drill the barrel release hole and reuse your existing barrel, if it does fail sometime that will make it easy to swap. A pattern polo barrel will work, less than a tenner if you ever do need to swap it.

Would you take 80 quid? - can pick them up pretty much any time that suits you. cheers, David.

Looks like all you are missing is the bottom spring that goes between the bottom plastic bearing and the end of the uj. you have the shear bolts. the spline adapter sleeve is the steel spines collar that the steering wheel internal splines sit on, this is pressed into the top end of the internal column. You have the top spring, that fits between the top spline collar and the ridge near the top of the column. i don't see the bottom spring though, you should be able to use the existing one, but I found the polo one was slightly different. the immobiliser ring on the polo column I had just slid onto the steering lock iirc oh yeah, you need a steering lock! Pattern one from gsf is fine, about 15 quid, lock barrel and switch is same as adjustable column one, so you can reuse them.

Looking at the rack end when I did a track rod a few weeks ago I'd say just measure from the end of the actual toothed rack to the surrounding rack body on both sides, I don't see any reason why one end would stick out further than the other when central.