davidwort

the corrado spoiler switch is also used for the tail-lift mechanism on a german transporter ambulance!

You always have the option of off the shelf elbows, splitters, reducers and joiners from people like sfs hoses, even if you cant get direct aftermarket replacements.

can't remember seeing those before, they look like the way mk4 top covers fit, but 1H0 is a mk3 part number and they are bigger than mk4 ones, they're not on ETKA, very odd.

around the head water outlet flange by the dizzy.

but that part is for the passat style, early/4cyl suspension (and small engine mk3 golfs) and won't fit the VR6 style 'stop' on the top of the damper.

Some great shots from the factory there.

get an MOT station to check your oil temp, they have sump probes, or use an infrared thermometer if you have or know someone with one, you may just have a ropey earth on the head or the wiring might be dubious, tends to rot near the sensor.

Sorry, don't have the specific info you need, but I'm interested as that lift seems low for 16v cams, inlets are usually the problem as the piston cut outs for them are close and the reason why heads can't be skimmed much at all. You may get the advice you need from the 16v section of the club gti forum.

I heard it was all a devious plan by the Government to keep the official GDP figures in the black for the first 1/4 of this year too :lol: If only we had a government that was actually that clever and organised...

perhaps there just isn't the same sort of crowd/following unless you have an S3. I'd ask for opinions on club GTI or mkIV's instead, I get the feeling Audi drivers are more interested in the badge and the appearance rather than the nuts and bolts. Funny really as I remember when it was only the quattro that had any 'image' at all. A3 is only a mk4 if you remove the switches and dash, so pretty much any mk4 issues are valid, apart from the dealers being even more a-holes than the VW ones, which is going something :)

I agree, had 2 sets of aftermarket ones and the rubber went on one set and the bearings have play on both sets (standard springs and shocks too), I think I'm going to get the late spring top plates and change to the later style VR mountings, at least then the bearing and rubber is separate.

I think the G60 ones are unique, not the same as generic passat, corrado 16v/2.0 8v or small engine mk3 items, they're probably obselete too.

you need a pressure hose with the correct ends and unions, you can use a passat hose of the same vintage, probably mk3 golf too.

Throttle cable smooth? Throttlebody clean? Could be a vacuum leak on inlet side, or perhaps fuelling related - possibly lambda issue, worth getting the lambda signal checked out on diagnostics. Just a few thoughts.

get the mark lined up at tdc by running the engine and turning the gun's adjuster with the strobe on the mark, that will give you your current advance, you can then adjust the distributor to get the desired advance, and moving the gun's adjuster to bring the mark lined up at TDC again to read off the advance (at least the needle gauge type I have works like this), 6deg mark is only there for non-adjustable guns.

there's a 6 degree advance and TDC mark on the flywheel, just line up the first mark, TDC, (as the flywheel rotates anti-clockwise) and then dial in 7 degrees on your gun, you can double check by using the cambelt end pulley to check the timing too, I'd mark every mark up with tippex or white paint first, including the arrow on the plastic timing belt cover and the V in the gearbox casing, makes it much easier to see everything. you might even find it'll run OK with a little more than 7 degrees, especially if you use super unleaded, if it pinks up hill on full throttle at low speed in 4th or 5th then knock back the timing a little.

Hi Jason, how's it going :)

Last weekend I finally got a couple of jobs done I've been meaning to for a while, new drivers side track rod and end and ignition lock barrel and new steering column bearings. Car has a fixed height steering column so uses the polo inner column, mk2 golf bottom bearing and VW family polo, golf etc steering lock and top bearing, all easily available from the aftermarket. Steering lock was not engaging on mine (MOT item now) and it turned out to be the lock barrel itself, worn and not springing out when key was removed, top bearing had play though so a pattern lock and bearing/housing from GSF was fitted, cheap and looks fine next to the old VW one, first one I tried had a sha99ed bearing so be careful if using a pattern one. PITA of a job though as the steering wheel spline collar on the column needs pressing off to remove the steering lock, I just heated it and whacked it in a vice to knock the column out of the centre of the collar, a special puller from VW is required to do it in-situ, a normal 3 legged puller won't work. Lock barrrel is a Corrado specific part, only one left in country and obselete (40 odd quid), but I fitted a polo/golf pattern one (about 8 quid) and it fits fine, I think the only difference is a slightly different shape to the top black cap on the barrel, but you don't see this as the corrado plastic covers hide it, so the polo part looks no different once installed (same as on my fixed steering column how-to) Track rod replacement. The track rod removal tool is a real boon, makes the job very easy, but you do need to remove the old track rod end first, so make sure it's free before diving in. Ball joint splitter made short work of the TRE to the hub and then removing T-rod from rack was as easy as undoing a wheel bolt :) [ATTACH=CONFIG]57309[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57313[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57317[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57321[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57325[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57329[/ATTACH] removal tool showing jaws next to old track rod [ATTACH=CONFIG]57333[/ATTACH] adjusting track rod length: [ATTACH=CONFIG]57337[/ATTACH] finally alignment checked and set on the old school alignment gauges, first time I've used this kit, a lot easier than axle stands and bits of string :lol: [ATTACH=CONFIG]57349[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57345[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57341[/ATTACH]

forgive me, but aren't you just trying to fix the symptoms? if your suspension is too hard, your sidewalls too thin and your top mounts too unforgiving then you are just going to stress something else, I wouldn't be surprised if you suffered problems with wheel bearings or even bodyshell damage. Fitting 'uprated' or stiffer parts is all well and good for smooth tracks but if your roads are too poor then it would make sense to fit more forgiving springs and dampers if you want to run large diameter wheels. I don't think race style topmounts will last five minutes on rough road surfaces, no matter how big or what type the bearings are.

when you say the mounts have gone again, I'm assuming you mean the bearing and not the rubber, I'd have thought aftermarket mountings may well have stiffer rubber and just increase your problems, can the mk4 bearings and rubbers not be fitted to the VR/mk3 suspension?

All the info you need is buried somewhere in the forum, I've never known why vw state a fixed measure for one side and adjustment on the other, I guess that is for rack centre position, but I've always done both to keep the steering wheel straight when setting up toe.

Well, I've done the job with the removal tool and it was a piece of p1ss, fantastic bit of kit, will post a few pics on my gallery later, had it all done including the tracking in minutes, much gratitude to my old man for letting me use all his tools and 4 post ramp on a Friday afternoon, would have taken me all day at home. :D

perhaps he fitted the washers first then couldn't fit them up through the wheelarch :lol: I'm intrigued by this now...

I don't think there are different washers, the part no is the same (mk2 golf part originally) all the way through to the last of the mk3's, most likely a koni damper thing. My koni rears (off car adjustable damping) have thinner shafts than OEM so I have to wrap the top part in duct tape so the bump stops don't slide around :roll:

Yep, basic k-jet with fuel control pressure tweaked on the warm up regulator, if set up right they go really well, crude by any standards but pretty effective and copes well with engine modifications, I love the way my old 16v revs and handles, still puts a smile on my face after 16 years driving it!