LowG

hi mate how you doing. Yea looks like you have one of those thin walled manifolds, tubular bended with a half 4-1 collector job. Because they are so thin walled 1.5mm at best they are prone to cracking under stress. When you add a 5+kg turbo and downpipe and some of the exhaust weight then it all puts alot of stress on the mani. Also im not sure if these manifold are stress relieved when they are welded. To have some more insurace for it not to crack I would brace the turbo onto the engine. You make up a bracket conecting turbo or the T3 flange onto the engine. If you wrap it you might increase chances of cracking too. Give it a go and keep an eye on it. Its also a good idea to support the wastegate aswell if you are going for a screamer pipe. KR are 1.8 liter, I have one here if you are looking for one. Best to find a 9a as they are 2l, bore it over to a 2.1. If you need more info on this let me know, I have the right pistons/conrod package for this. I do make intake manifolds, i sent you a pm ;).

With the bettle valvecover breather I have had no problems with blowby, just the 1 breather on the head is more than enough for our motors. About going 1.8T, its been said before, if you want just a little more power ie what a chiped 1.8t will provide at best (270) then might be ok to go for a 1.8T conversion. If you are looking for more power than its a different issue and staying 16v and adding a turbo makes sense.

With 16v forced induction being supercharged or turbo this will def help or shall i say you need it. In a normaly aspirated 16v it can also help. Especially if you have a tuned 16v reving higher its something nice to have. If you look at other 16v or NA engines they all have a breather system on the valve cover ie the honda 16v engines, vr6 ect ect.

Nice find! Got the price coming up as around £20 but not sure if my price file is correct for the UK or the EU but it still works out around a tenner. Engine breathing is a right PITA on FI blocks and this looks like a very handy little aid to removing the problem. Do you get much oil coming out of the breather? I see the beetle set-up has it on a return to the top of the oil filter housing. Yea it might be more for some reason I thought I paid 14 pounds for 2 :lol: , on high speed runs and high boost 15psi+ you will get a bit of blowby, I dont insert it back into the intake system in my car, I vent it off to atmosphere or in the catch tank.

Oil consumption isnt that bad as people think, when you go from NA to turbo specially ball bearing turbos which are also watercooled you get a quicker warmup time. With a thermostated sandwich plate for oil cooler you should be ok with warmups. Most of the time when you go forged pistons and turbocharged you find an increased oil consumption, one cause is the pistons of course that have to be run bit loose and the other is blowby caused by boost. Specially on a 16v the cylinder head does not have a breather. If you run boost through it the pressure increase will cause oil to leak through the valve steam seals and into your combustion chamber or into your intake if your breather system feeds back into the intake pipe, you will see a big black smoke cloud behind you lol. So another pointer for 16vt guys, breathe your heads by installing a breather plastic box that goes where the oil cap goes onto, you can buy it from VAG its a breather box from a new beatle i think its around 7 pounds or so. Part number on pic are correct i think.

Well majority of the wear would be around bearings/rings. If you change all the berings on the block, pistons and rebore and if the crank is in good nick then will be good to go. Same with the cylinder head, things that wear out might be lifters, valve guides valves, springs. As long as the head is in a good helthy state all you will need is set of race springs, make sure all valves seal properly, and some new stem seals.

There is more to an intercooler design than just boost loss. It might not be restrictive but it might not cool well either. Dont skip an a part such as intercooler, spend 50-100 pounds more and get a decent one instead of most cheap china ebay cores. Just an opinion. regards

Well put it this way, you need to lower your compression on your valver first. One cheaper way to do it is install a spacer, knock it down to around 9:1 and with intercooler you are safe. I have run around 340hp on stock block to test things, it held fine with many high rpm runs and around 10k, i didnt go higher. I think it might take 270hp reliably but more than that not worth the risk although im sure the engine will take it. I wouldnt do it any other way except installing pistons and conrods in the engine, you might spend more first time but you never have to worry about it.

Well lets put it down, most parts I can supply, prices approximates. Forged pistons and conrods(83mm oversize, rods with arp bolts)- 740 pounds Garret Gt2871r 850pounds Intercooler 250-300 pounds Piping and hoses clamps-120 ARP bolts 120 pounds Turbo manifold-300-400 pounds Downpipe -100-+ Exhaust system 3" Tial BOV/wastegate 400 pounds Inline fuel pump 140 Injectors 440cc 160 Ecu Digifant with custom mapping 600-700? Stand alone 400+ and tuning Some sort of boost controller mbc or ebc 50+ Reliability wise the block will be bullet proof, in terms of power it will take a lot with forged pistons and rods. I would suggest installing some stronger valve springs for 8000rpm pulls. You wont get 350hp from a 20v motor without going for better parts i.e. turbo manifold bigger downpipe ect ect. To build the 1.8T engine you will be spending the same money, advantage is if you have a 16v already you dont pay for the 1.8T engine So you will be left with a strong engine that can take a lot of abuse, most guys go for 1.8T cuz its cheaper if you dont build the block or change turbos and they don’t want more than 300hp or so. The main difference between the 20v and 16v is the head. Both flow similar with the 20v having the upper hand. When you port them the differences are smaller. The block strength with up rated parts is similar on kr/9a or the 1.8T. Im sure there’s more parts I have missed but that’s a sort of figure you expected to pay, than labour on top if you don’t do it yourself adds up. A setup like that can would be good for around 450hp or more if you go for bigger turbo ect. Then you come to the problem that every fwd car has, putting the power down. Things that help like LSD, a strong clutch some semi slicks if not a daily car OR go 4wd 8)

No you cannot use it, its a match for 8v heads not 16v. Diesel turbos are very small wont flow enough air for 16v unless they are from something like a cat truck :lol: Best way is to save a bit and do it right the first time.

There are many ways to turbo a 16v, each way has its own benefits and its limits. The power goal is very important. You can build a 16v to produce 250-600+hp so its all in the parts and methods used to make up the engine. Block. Its wise to start off with a bigger block i.e. the 9a 2l one, from start you are getting extra cc to help spool the turbo whatever its size. Stock blocks can take around 300hp when the compression ratio is lowered. The 1.8 can also be used and strength wise should be the same as the 9a. 8v tall blocks 236mm can also be used like ones found on the mk3 gti. The compression ratio with this block and 16v head should be around 8:1 perfect for boost. Although you must switch parts on the 8v block such as 9a oil pump, auxiliary shaft, crank pulley so the 16v timing belt can be used. My way of doing it is building the 16v block in hand, that way you will have piece of mind on the bottom end and achieve proper compression ratio. If we have a 9a block best way of doing it is to overbore to 83.5mm and mate it to a matching wiesco pistons and a set of eagle rods with Arp bolts. This bumps up the cc to 2038. I would then install a metal headgasket from a mk3 gti with Arp head bolts. Now this block setup would be 600hp+ capable. Head. Main objective on the head is to increase flow further. If you can get the head ported and flowed, mild cams are a good idea, anything with around 11.5mm lift should give good gains in hp and torque. If you use big turbo then the cams used will affect the spooling of the turbo. Turbo There is a huge turbo selection for the 16v. My choice would be a GT2871 Garrett ball bearing turbo, its not too laggy and its 440hp capable. Now this turbo will do 300hp perfectly and be very efficient. Anything smaller than this on the 16v it’s a waste in my opinion. We have the flow so must make use of it. For supper quick spool up and those wanting only around 330hp then the GT28RS is the solution. Both of those turbos can be run with internal wastegates and be efficient so that can save up on running an external one. The slightly bigger turbos you can use are the GT30R 550hp capable and the GT35R 650hp capable. The 30R should produce full boost by 4000rpm and the 35R by around 4700rpm. I use the 35R and I love it, I see boost from 2900rpm!! Manifolds/exhaust system The stock inlet manifold can be used, however it’s not ideal, it’s prone to heat soaking due to being on top of valve cover and server not much purpose on a turbo car. As been said modified Audi S2 is one choice or a custom one. The length of the boost pipes will be shortened greatly. Turbo manifold it’s the next step, cast manifolds can be used, I think kinetic makes one, and eip has ran out of theirs. I wouldn’t use the modified Audi s2, they are restrictive. The other choice would be a tubular manifold, if you are looking for one contact me as I do fabricate them. Tubular manifolds are bit more laggy but the top end power is phenomenal! The downpipe for 300hp 2.5" is ok, over that I would only do it 3". Having a 3" all the way system would be the best. ECU The starting point would be the G60 digifant ecu, the SNS boys can provide chips to run up to 15psi of boost. That can be around 350hp depending on the turbo used. Other option would be to run a standalone. Good choices would be megasquirt,034efi,sds, haltech. Like I said the engine itself can make loads of power, it’s all about flow. The volumetric efficiency of the 16v makes it a better engine to be used in FI as when compared to the VR6. The problem you will have when making big power is putting the power down. The 02a gearbox and driveshaft’s start to fail around 350-400hp. LSD is needed and maybe some street slicks. 4wd is another option but maybe too much work for some. If anyone is interested in pursuing this project I can source most parts to carry this out. I will be doing pistons/conrod combo deals for the 1.8 and 2l 16v blocks consisting of wiesco/eagle at good prices. 16V engine is a great platform, I just wish more people would go this route instead of 20vt. There is soo much info to go in here i cannot put through one post. So if you guys have anything buggin you this is a great thread to deal with it and share experiences. regards

Heres how the lights look on the car and some close up pics of how the projectors look inside. I have a couple of spare lenses, im not going to grind the whole lens down, only the area around the projector, the projector is closer than i thought to the light and this means a smaller circumference needed to be smoothed. I have seen many new cars with similar glass pattern.

Alot of these bulbs are marketed wrong, they say 50-80% brighter but in reality they are not close. Just go and buy some cheaper 100w bulbs if you have nice uprated loom and you should be happy. I have tried the osrams and piia extreme, went to some 100w units and found best light, now on HID. They might not be legal but I have found on the corrado lights they are perfect.

I would have thought audi/vag projectors would be good also? On the lens issue, Im grinding the groves down and once its flat will go over with wet dry, might try some of those polishing compounds for glass.

1) Yep the projector is supported in the stock reflector, its grafted inside it. 2) There is about 2.5-3cm distance from the lens. 3) Yea only low beam, you want HID plus full beams PLUS 2 100w?? Thats alot of light man :lol: . Low beams HID are fine for me. 4) The projectors I believe are from a fiat or alfa romeo. Hmm 5 inch is a bit on the large size, the stock lights dont stretch to that I think when i measured them up.

look good, mean in the rear view mirror :twisted: (abit JBOB looking) Have you modded the stock lights to take a projector light yet then? What are you doing about the headlight glass btw - as standard it's ridged and patterned to create the low beam pattern. Ideally you'd want to remove the patterning completely on that side of the lens so it's clear. It'd be a bastard to grind off, which leaves you the option of fitting a clear lexan / polycarbonate or similar replacement which you'd have to fabricate yourself. Is the stock headlamp housing deep enough to take a projector without modification? Just wondering as it's something I've thought about doing, but the more I look into it, the more complicated and involved it looks. The easy solution would be InPros, but l don't really like the look either and as I understand it, they only fit flush on early spec Cs. Be interested to see how it works :-) Depending on the projectors you use the stock housing is pretty large, some prejoctors I have seen are too big to fit in there but some are ok. The projectors were grafted in by mate of mine and he had HID, its not such a difficult job to do but must be aligned properly. Yes you are right the stock lense is ribbed and will tend to spread the light , it isnt that bad, the stock lense with HID produce a good beam nice and strong but not perfect how it should be and how the projectors were designed to be used. I will shave the stock lense near the projector area, this should improve spread pattern much further. I dont want to go completley clear glass, it makes the headlight look too naked. Also if you make replacment lenses out of plastic be aware that they do steam up very easily and keep it in.

Big turbos is the new thing, the bigger the better :lol: . I still cant see lasting too long on the haldex 4wd system or the gearbox, 800 something nm of tourque!! These runs are done with higher octane race fuel usually 118 in order to run more boost, on pump fuel the figures would be around 550hp give/take as you have to lower boost to stop detonation. If the VR had better flowing characteristics.. oh wait thats what the 24v is for :)

To fit HID you will need projectors, if you want to keep stock lights you have to do alot of modifying in order to get the projectors in stock reflectors. You then switch from H4 to H7 bulbs that most hid kits come in. Im about to switch from stock lights stock loom onto stock HID'd lights as I dont like the angel eyes. Heres a quick photoshop of how theyll look. The internals have been modified so the lights looks dark inside when off, the lights are not potoshoped thats how they look in real life. What you guys think?

3" over rear axle is not such a big problem "unless" your car is really low. I dont think 3" exhaust is needed for sub 300hp or so. Big bore exhausts are used more commonly on turbo cars or shall i say cars with bigger turbos in order to decrease backpressure and increase spool/reduce egt. I see a 3" bore on a non turbo car to be kind of loud :lol:

Corrado weekend fun car. Golf tdi daily mule :lol:

some more pics when i got it clean

YOU need to come back to the pack, I have a nice big turbo with your name on it to stick into the R32, its as big as your head lol :lol:

The loud scream comes from the wastegate being fully open due to me running low boost. The wastegate dumps the gas on the atmosphere without silencing the sound. This makes the car very quiet on 1-4k and screaming animal from 4-8k. Once the sound comes on you know you are moving as the turbo has reached full speed, when this happens the revs climb very quickly up.

Thanks guys. The price to build the block with J&E pistons, overbore it and Pauter conrods with ARP bolts you are looking at around 1k in parts. The block should handle anything you throw at it 600 +hp. Yes this is my demo car, its a few months late as I was meant to have it ready for VW festival at the Pod, oh well will have to be next year that way gives me more time to test and work out the little bugs. Like any project car its a work in progress where I am always changing bits and improving it. As you can tell the car is built for maximum power and should yield good times at the 1/4 mile track. The car on paper should produce around 620whp, with race fuel how close I get to that number will have to see. With all these new fast turbo Corrados coming up it will be interesting to see how the VW scene over here will respond. I think the turbo epidemic is finally catching up with the VW croud :) .

I think you mean bar not psi :) , with the k jet gone and an uprated system you will be able to run alot more than that safely.