Heardy

yeah used some turtle wax stuff that i got from halfrauds.

We ive finally got round to sorting my sunroof out. Mine would tilt but wouldnt slide properly unless i used the crank handle. I stripped it down and the cable's were intact but i suspect there was too much drag for the motor to overcome and i would just get the click click. Anyway cleaned all the old grease out using a steam cleaner and i replaced the left hand rocker arm and the part that it mount's to as i suspect that this was worn as the rocker arm seemed to colide with the mechanism when i tried to slide it back. After that rebulit it using plenty of white spray grease and hey presto it works perfect :D . It's really not that bad a job to do.I managed to get the roof out in about 30 min's. I also found that my motor was a bit tired so i got a bosch motor out of a vw sharran.The only thing with the bosch motor is that it doesnt slide fully back possibly a slightly different design, but it's something that can be lived with. Well chuffed that's one more job done..

Yes set it at 4,800 still no luck. I'll see if i can try it on another 16v C and see if that's the problem. Right then i've finally got it to work and there are no fault code's,but when i go into measuring blocks i can't get any reading's it just says ERROR in most of the blocks any ideas whats up?

I'm pretty sure the transit diesel engine's dont have glow plugs on them,Hence the reason that there's no glowplug light on the dashboard! We look after a couple of them at work and i dont recall seeing any glow plugs on them,i think they just rely on higher compression ratio's to start. I think it's more likely that it's drawing air in somewhere causing poor starting and running.

Cheers andy :thumb right:

Why is it that when i phoned the dealers and i quoted them that repair kit part number he said it's only for one side? Is he mistaken ?

Can anyone tell me if a bosch sunroof motor out of a mk3 golf will fit a corrado? The mounting holes look the same but i'm unsure about the wiring? Thanks Jason

Any ideas on what readings you should get when it's tested with a multimeter?

I bet you have some fun doing commercial's. Lucky for me we only do class IV much more staight forward,like you say it will be much easier after this first year is over Well hopefully :lol:

Have you tried clicking on the abort VSI search? It usually tells you the model and engine size on that page but make sure you click the back button and not the return button otherwise it wont enter the details correctly.Give it a go if you havent tried it before. As for the engine number that's just a pain :brickwall:

The computer usually know's what year of registration the vehicle is.(not that it allways matches up the V5 though as i've found a few times now).

Yes set it at 4,800 still no luck. I'll see if i can try it on another 16v C and see if that's the problem.

I've got an X-ONE this one http://www.skpang.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=39d2c9409406dfd009329343e08acdf2

If the interface is optically isolated then it won't work. The interface MUST be an electronic isolation type for the 16v 2.0ltr. . What do you me by that?How will i know if it's isolated or not? I got my lead from skpang.

I've tried altering the baud rate and it wont find the engine ecu.What's wrong with it ?What should i try next?

Can anyone tell me what reading i should be getting on a ECU temp sensor for a VR6?I've checked it and im getting a reading of 4 ohms when cold is this about right? Cheers

Cheers andy

What baud rate has it got to be on to check a 2.0 16v? I'm having problems.

I've got VAG-COM If you fancy a run to sheffield i'll check if for you.

Not having a catalyst fitted when it usually would have is not a reason for failure. What date was it first registered? We've not heard about any changes regarding march 2006.

Not true at all.Who told you that? You don't need to take any paperwork with you. Unless you want your certificate postdating then you need to take it with you.

Check for power to the glow plugs using a test light or multimeter. Get someone to switch the ignition on and see if there's power to the glowplugs it should stay on for about 20-30 secs.some glowplugs even opperate after the light on the dash goes out. It's worth changing the white plastic thing that is fitted in the top of the fuel filter (it's a bleed valve) i've had these go faulty quite a few times and it result's in poor starting.Change that while youre changing the filter as youve got to take it out anyway.

Yeah doesnt sound a bad price.It cost me about £300 in part's alone when i did mine and that was at trade prices

As above really my mate want's some work doing on his vr and i'm workering how much to charge him?He's going to supply all the part's and do some of the donkey work. What is the usual cost if you go to stealth?

Your car will be tested as a 1990 vehicle so youre okay. When you carry out a computerised test now the computer know's what year the vehicle and some other detail's like colour and possibly model but it doesnt allway's know what engine size the car is so we have to fill those detail's in. This is where you can get around the emmision test.If the engine or engine code can't be identified it alters the emmision limit's :D Usually making them higher..