yalan

Got 52.0 a couple of weeks ago over a 20 minute journey........ was driving down from Les Deux alpes at the time though. No neutral coasting either! Can do 38.5 on a 30 min trip to work though whenever feeling ecological. Aah the joys of 16v cheapness! I got a bit adicted to this when I had my S2...... it gets obsessive and kinda takes the enjoyment away from driving - especially when you start calculating the MPG from every fuel recipt to see how far out the trip gauge is..........

nice one, thanks! EDIT: Apparently, according to ETKA there is only one part no....... so all looks good!

I have a '93 rado with the late interior. If I were to get a replacement door from an earlier car, will all the bits and pieces from my interior still all bolt up? (Interior handle, door card mounting screws etc) cheers

Sextons totally fecked up the installation of deadlocking in my golf. They even insisted that the malfunction was actually how the system operated. I had to remove their botched up install, show it to the manufacturers (Sempal) and refit replacement units before Sextons would admit they'd cocked it up. Eventually got the installation charges re-imbursed. I've heard good things about London car radio and Midland-Magneto (proper vehicle electrical engineers)...... though it has been a couple of years..... !

well, the pump is pumping all the way to the wiper motor. The blockage must ber in the linkage mechanism somewhere. Tried to get the motor/linkage unit out, but it looks like the whole spoiler mech needs to come out too. Bah. Any suggestions for clearing the nozzle (other than a pin)??? And the rear wiper blade is falling apart too. MOT failure ?

I have no water coming from the rear wash. I hear the front bottle supplies front and rear washers, so guess there must be a blockage somewhere. The pump motor can be heard running. Anyone have any suggestions where to start looking? And I guess this isn't part of the MOT (due tomorrow!) cheers

friend of mine stripped out a McGard key too - using a manual bar wrench - gotta make sure you hold the key flat agaianst the bolt head! You can also get high-security McGards now I hear - apparently the outer shroud spins for extra security

Always nice to see......... especially with a tyre slung around it's neck...... but- The revenue raised goes to the government (less the camera partnership's 'netting off' to pay for the cameras, wages etc) 20 burnt out cameras = £1m less funding to the government. And a 1m shortfall in income gets made up by .........? All taxpayer's money in the long run.

yup - that was me - but its not LHD though - and if it was, she certainly wouldn't be driving it!!! ............ and saw another myself today parking up in the North Lanes..... Peltham street.... Grey VR ??

..... can't go anywhere in sussex without spotting other forum members! They seem to be two a penny round here at the moment!(see!!) Just come back from a >1000 minle round trip to the alps last week - and didn't see another corrado for the whole week!

no chance you switched it on by accident..... you have to go through the software switch selection process which involves putting in your 4digit pin via switching the ignition on/off in sequence with led flashes. The switch you want is 1-3. You can do it yourself - but if you don't get it right you could end up fecking other settings quite easily. Best bet is to ask the guys who installed it to switch the option off. You have still got the PIN code haven't you?

benji - yup it does sound right, but whoever installed yours wired it up to one of the instantaneous outputs so the full closure only happens when you're holding down the button. Using the timed output means that the closure will happen automatically every time you alarm the car!

Currently, your 606 is wired up to lock the car using the 606's dedicated CL pulse. This works well for most cars as that is all the cars lock pulse is used for! On the corrado it also activates the full closure - and as you've found out this takes longer than the longest lock pulse (you can have it either 0.5 secs for cars with electric operated locks or 3.5 secs for cars with vacuum locking). If you want a longer pulse to close everything else, you need to set up one of the alarm's other timed arming outputs via the installer set-up procedure, then re-wire your car's locks to this other output wire. Found all this out when I installed one on my '93 rado..... sodding thing kept leaving the passenger window half open! All sorted now though! Only downside is there is a 1-2 second delay before this other lock pulse activates after arming the alarm.

and you're not the ripspeed guy who used to work at the halfords on lewes road are you...... recognised a familiar face in there whilst buying my snow chains!

nice to know it's still getting admiring glances from the brotherhood despite being bruised and seriously filthy! must get round to washing that salt off it's arse..... specially before I get pulled up on it by the Gendarmes..... woo-hoo - corrado trip to the Alps next week. Fingers crossed (and AA extended cover taken out! - can you believe they double the premium when the car is over 10!)

if you did, it could only have been minutes from home - only went to the tesco/esso up the road! If it was some irresponsible person driving on the pavement it wasn't me!

is yours the green one with one fog light blanked out and waiting in yellow primer??? Was in there last week and some guy in another corrado turned up and started inspecting my exhaust bracket whilst I was in the shop (according to the other half who was sat in said car at the time!) Bizzare place worthing - every time I drive through I see another corrado! mines a dirty black 16v btw!

Vote TOAD - on my 3rd (3 cars!) one now, and not one has let me down (or got me up) once unecessarily. Pukka pieces of kit, and if you know what you're doing, you can do it yourself to be sure a good job is done. £150 or so from most retailers who'll sell you one over the counter. Otherwise, go on a recommendation - should be under £300. These things do take some time to fit well ~5 or 6 hours it took me on the rado. PS, on the fob thing - Toad has to win - clear, robust grown up design that'll last and last. The daddy :)

not a particularly nice feeling driving with just three wheels turning! Was expecting the friction to free it off after a bit of movement but no luck. I don't think that Toyo tyre would have lasted much longer being dragged along its ass! Is the 'siezed caliper' issue handbrake related?

Well thank god for this forum! the C obviously didn't like -4 this morning so decided to lock up one of my rear wheels for the drive to work. 2 minutes on the forum, 10 minutes under the wheel & we're off. Cheers Forum!!

And also try not to hammer the joint so hard that the whole driveshaft including complete inner cv joint comes out complete. Clearly sometime it is easy....... sometimes it aint! (took me approx 3 hours, blood, sweat and concussion to get the job done - don't ask!)

hmm - did the same myself on wednesday. Also had to call the AA. Didn't half feel like a tw*t.

hmm - something which I've been expecting sooner or later...... has had a bit of oil round the edges of the dizzy since I bought the car. There's no puddle inside the cap or anything - but it is a bit messy.

excellent replies there guys, thanks! A few of the wires seem freyed in the engine bay - (the ones to the throttle position sensor had completely broken off inside the connector!). However the ones to the Hall sender appear OK. I took the dizzy cap off and the area around the hall sender looks a bit manky - so I might clean that a bit before sourcing a new sender. Hopefully carb cleaner won't do too much damage. 1 - clean sender 2 - check relays are snug 3 - replace sender 4 - check wires for damage / continuity

Driving along happily at 60 ish in top gear, my car will occasionally lose all power for a moment. The tacho needle will plunge down to 0 then shoot back up to 3000. Resultant will be me lurching forward then back again as the power returns. Bizarre, because the 2.0 16v isn't the most responsive of engines, and the rate of change of revs is nothing you can reproduce with the accelerator etc. Really sharp and sudden. Anyone got any experiences / suggestions? (Fuel filter changed