yalan

When lowered 15s look just fine to me..... My last rado had 15" estorils and was just fine. Didn't know P slots came in 15"..... I was thinking 14" so long as it would clear the brakes. Seem to be lots of them on eBay for peanuts......... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RARE-PIRELLI-ALLO ... dZViewItem £23 a set !

Removing the old Factory fit Conlog Logic 900 alarm immobiliser to replace with something more adaptable. Seems a shame to throw it all away seeing as I know the remotes / immobiliser all work. Not sure about the alarm side of things because someone cut the siren cable long ago...? Could be useful for spares if you already have one fitted. If anyone wants / needs the lot they're welcome to the pile. Just pay postage. No warranty provided 2 fobs - (one master) 4 unopened V393 batteries Ultrasonic sensor controller unit Main brain unit & steel case Original user manual 7 pages. ALL GONE NOW - Sorry!

Does anyone have a pic of what p-slots look like on a lowered corrado? Fancy a change and quite like the slab look of estorils but fancy something different..... ideas?

Quite a bit like corrados. A good one is a blast but a dog will leave you're wallet bleeding. I've had both - a good one which cost me almost nothing to run and a 'troublesome' one which set me back thousands whilst only going a few thousand miles. People to talk to are at s2forum.com - a fantastic community.

Indeed. I had a concept 300 on my old Audi. And 2 of the 3 remotes I had showed this problem. As I remember, the battery clip is soldered on one side with the connection going through the board and joining the circuit on the other side. The strain of the battery in the clip breaks down the joint - but not obviously. It snaps the connecting piece which goes through the board which is why it is almost impossible to see. I chopped mine in for a Toad ai606. I've had 5 of these now and fitted them to all of my cars over the last few years. No problems whatsoever. Only cost £100 from eBay if you can fit it yourself. I thoroughly recommend them!

Thought I recognised 'Northern Tool Co'...... my other half turned up last week with 'a catalogue I might like'.... Looks like Northern Tool is in the UK too. And your jack is in the catalogue - priced at £117.49inc VAT. how much was postage from the US? http://www.northerntooluk.com/products. ... no=144440E

Think you guys need to give up on the idea or 'reprogramming a flipkey unit to control your alarm. Its not justa case of transmitting a certain frequency to communicate with an alarm. The transponders need to send the correct code via RF - correct frequencies / time gaps / coding sequences etc. Its all VERY unlikely you'll find anyone who has actually managed it for themselves and even then it'll probably be a fluke such as the makers of the OE alarm being the same as those who made the aftermarket alarm in the same year. If you want to get it working you'll probably have to fit your aftermarket fob inside the VW casing. Itried this with a TOAD alarm. And there was no chance without making a new circuit board & relocating almost all components. Just not worth it IMHO. Sorry to be negative but it seems that the rumours have gone on too long!

on that maplin link, the ones labelled piezo transducers are the raw sounders & will only crackle unless supplied with a signal. If it is labelled as a buzzer it'll have a plastic case around it which contains the circuitry. If you want a buzz - just buy a buzzer! They're so cheap its just not worth the hassle of trying to get a separate sound generator though I'm sure yoou'd find one at maplin in their velleman range.

Fantastic job you've done there - but I can't see why you'd want to?! Its nicely balanced with the fogs IMHO. Smoothed out its just all ba bit chunky for my liking. A bit likes Neo's mouth when the baddies make it seal up......... mmmm mmmmm mmmmmmm.

piezo needs a signal to generate a sound. The crackle is just the sounder acting as a speaker.

All boxsters whether 'S' or not use monobloc calipers. I doubt the AP disks would be floating - more likely just a 2 piece bell & rotor. Sorry can't help with fitments as its difficult to know without measuring up! Similar questions but audi specific: http://www.slybadger.com/cars/s2/brakedetail.htm

from the guy who sold them in kit form in the US on the audi forum: read more : http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9803 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok Ok this post got far enough! Time to clear some things up. The kit is 309x20.6mm and does use the 996 rear calipers. To be honest, I was a little hesitant at first to produce the kit since the rotor is lighter than stock and the pistons are in the caliper are smaller than stock. However, I really wanted to test it out and put a nice kit under a 16" wheel. Remember that most of us in the states don't have 5 lug so the A8 rotors are out unless you want them redrilled, and thats not ideal. So, the 12.2 wilwood rotors had an odd sized friction surface and the 996 rear caliper fit perfectly on top of it. I put it together and sent it to Marc to test out, not knowig what to expect besides a stiffer pedal. I was quite pleased to hear he likes the kit! What has been mentioned - brake bias. OK I'm not 100% sure if the OEM prop valve will adjust for front-rear. However, my understanding is that it biases based on a pressure differential. The Bentley reinforces this. Ideally, ALL brake upgrades require fine tuning with an adjustable bais valve - doesn't matter if you are using 8 piston Brembos or 996 calipers atop A8 rotors. If you change calipers, bias does change. Marc reports it works well with no adjustment. Rotor mass: I don't believe in the theory that a rotor needs to weigh 22 lbs to work. In fact, these extremely heavy rotors affect the car in every way - braking, handling, ride, fuel mileage, and acceleration. Start with a high quality rotor that can shed its heat quicky without warping. Wilwood is famous over here for their race-quality rotors. The Audi rotors can handle a ton of heat no doubt, but the heat produced by pad-rotor friction is concentrated at the face of the rotor and must conduct to the center in order to take advantage of the vented nature of the rotor. The temperature throughout the rotor is far from uniform and this contributes not only to rotor warping but pad glazing. By using a lightweight rotor with good cooling passages, heat is quickly dissipated through the vanes. Conside that cooling is affected by the following: temperature differential, materials used, and the ratio of mass to surface area. This rotor has virtually the same surface area as the 314x30 rotor but is less than half the mass. In addition, these rotor rings are very inexpensive. Cheap enough you can carry spares to the track and change them in a few minutes. Try this: $40 each. You can't even buy stock rotors for this price. Now, yes a lighter rotor will reach higher temperatures, regardless of the better cooling you experience. For this reason I recommend pads which are suited to high temp conditions. MetalMasters, R4S, DS2500, etc. Marc has had good results with his PBRs although I don't know what compound they are. The calipers have smaller pistons - ok. They are still considerably stiffer and better at dissipating heat than the G60s. They also have larger pads and a better selection of compounds. I'll admit, I wasn't 100% confident at first that the kit would be as good as it is. However, testing is showing that it is working great. I'd like Marc to continue testing it out as vigorously as he feels comfortable with so I can find out how it handles abuse. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Is it not a variation on the line lock which is used as the e-brake? Porsche rear calipers certainly don't have a mechanical linkage. I know the front calipers are used in the audi community quite alot as upgrade components. But most people suggest against using the rear calipers up fron because they've got such tiny pistons that it might adversely affect the bias. Turns out that on the audi, the same vol of fluid moves pads the same amount on both the OEM 2 pot Girling G60s and the upgraded Porsche 4 pots. Switching to porsche rear calipers would severely upset this balance. Having said that, there is / was a guy in the US who was offering Boxster rear calipers as an upgrade for the front. Guinea pig driver seemed happy on first report back......... make of that what you will. I'd say it is possible..... but without some serious calculations on the rest of the system I'd not just jump straight in.

from the Audi forum I use: German Recycled Parts Specialsts ----01525 210978 - http://www.vw-audi-specialists.co.uk VW Audi Spares ---------------------01903 850924 --- http://www.audivwparts.co.uk VW Audi Breakers ------------------- 01225 792900 -- http://www.vwaudibreakers.co.uk Audi VW Vehicle Workshop ----------- 01304 620683 (??????) VW & Audi Used spares -------------- 0161 655 3199 -- --- http://www.vwaudispares.co.uk Gwent Vw/Audi Centre --------------- 01633 214333 -- http://www.gwentvw.co.uk admittedly a couple of repeats. But I do know the 01903 breakers always seems to have a corrado or 3 in stock.

bought one on 27th March 07. Part no 191 121 253L Retailed at £82 +VAT but apparently are a big markup item - so with 'club' discount came down to £69.70 + VAT Total £81.90

Maplin sells lots of relays and a good few 12v automotive specific ones. Unless I'm mistaken, the oputputs on the 606 are switched earth. Give the relay a permanant 12v feed and the alarm will provide the earth when it is told to. Automotive relays will easily cope with a 10-15a load over the contacts.

yup - my C&G certs did the job. halfords own brand stuff is heavily discounted. Bought a trickle charger last week - down from £25 to £8 Bought alt & Pas belts today £7 down to £3.5 Odd packs down LOADS! £20 odd quids worth down to £5! Tools seem to be approx 1/3 off but varies especially if already on offer. Well worth having! SIP tools 0% discount :(

they're shot! as is the exhaust manifold!

hmm interesting. probably best get it connected again before next MOT then. Strange - would have expected some running issues......... cheers!

Hi. Can anyone identify what will be struggling as a result of this disconnected wire? Seems to have freyed at a connector block which is mounted to the rear engine mount. Can't follow the wire very easily to trace. Cheers

Driving along today (in my 9A 16v) and watched the temp get hotter & hotter whilst moving in slow traffic. Then it got to 110 degrees and all of a sudden dropped to 70. At the same time the water light started to flash. Couldn't pull off so cut the engine and just started it each time I had to move fwd. Luckily only 5 mins from home. Got home and checked the water levels - still water in the tank but not much sloshing about. It was checked last time I went out. I did leave it on the drive ticking over for 10 minutes but couldn't get it to overheat again - fan kept cutting in to control things. Wierd. Heater matrix was changed recently (if its relevant info) Anyone have any suggestions as to what to check first?

and a couple of years after that first post, I'm back again with another 9A 16v..... This time a N reg for £1200. Some knocks and bruises but it'll all be good soon after a trip to JMR! Better pictures and higher weitec springs soon. running total: 3 MkII golfs 3 Audi Coupes (2x S2) 2 9A 16v Corrados I quite like VAG cars! (though the 'dodgem' clio is doing a sterling job!)

interesting to see that normal heavy duty machines cope with the leather. The books such as : all seem to suggest using a walking foot machine to be able to cope with french seams and heavy materials.

As he said. I had a 16v weitec kit and it was too low. Put the VR kit in instead and it sat much better. Pictures of before (std) and after are on the forum somewhere. Search my username for more. Ride quality was OK but understandably harder than OEM. My new 16v already had the 16v weitec kit fitted and it is 'bumpy'. Will probably change to the VR springs soon.

If there is one to buy, this'd be it (if you're brave!) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120086417681