yalan

if it is unlocking OK then it can't be the lock pulse length......... ......... personally I'd find the point where the lock signal is jointed to the c/l loom and try it with a +12v source. If this still doesn't work, you've isolated it to the car's electrics rather than the 606's.

aah but then you end up with a tyre full of that sticky cr*p which needs cleaning out before doing a proper repair. Personally I don't fancy doing 70+mph with a tyre I know has a hole in it..........

On my spacesaver.... originally has a 125 width tyre. ..... but can only find 115 wide at (any) breakers. can I get away with it? (apparently, according to elite, continental have stopped making 125/70/15 ! )

yup - definately as the second pic on mine (took apart last week!)

- Supply and fit GMAX suspension kit (kit cost about £240) - 3 hours with experience & decent tools - Supply and fit top suspension strut mounts (inc. bearings) front (both sides) - inc in above - Supply and fit rear upper and lower shock mounts (both sides) - inc in above - Supply and fit 6 NGK spark plugs - inc in full service - Supply and fit new front disks and pads - 1.5 hours with the susp already exposed - Full service - 2 hours £240 (kit) £195 (parts) £195 (labour - 6.5hours * 30) £630 £740 inc vat ?? come on...............how much!

had a set of green stuff on my audi s2. They were f*ing great. But wore out. Bought a new set & these severely overheated the disks. (apparently new compound) EBC claimed greenstuff is only good on lighter cars (golfs / saxos)........ so bought redstuff instead. Very happy with the results...... Including 1st thing in the morning running 'cold'. personally...... on my corrado will be running greensuff next time.. unless I can find DS2500 for sensible money.

well th rear springs can be raised or lowered on the weitec kits. Plus minus about 50mm ??? (using circlips on the spring lower mounts) fronts fixed height

I always thought the all-red look was the most appropriate. Somehow it reminds me of....... (although having found a pic, now realise they weren't all red :oops: )

no good to me..... running 4 stud......and 15"s !

OZ saturns yeah? I'm getting rid of them next week. In fact just swapping them for a moonroof at my local VW breakers. If you want 'em for the same price, they're yours!

Right - I have a set of the S2 calipers here & having done a trial fit they seem to be perfect for OEM 15" wheels. Fill 'em right to the rim (with about 4-5mm clearance!) So, question is alex, have you actually used yours yet? what is the pedal feel like? And do the hoses use the same connectors as the VW calipers? ie can you just use the old hoses off the corrado? This could be a nice cheap upgrade! Cheers mate!

The standard 4 cylinder kit from weitec is apparently way too low and knocks off ~60mm So - C&R suggested the VR6 kit. Since the engine is a bit lighter in the valver, it doesn't lower the front quite as much as it would do on the VR. VR should be 310 at the front, mine is 327. However - the rear suspension is adjustable, so you can peg it up a notch and have the back at pretty much the same level. (I also got the 'comfort kit' incl VR top mounts, Mk4 top plates and febi bumpstops) (so far happy with the ride - although only done ~ 15miles!) Suspension kit £240 All in price £358 Anyway, for those who want to see how it went..............

garage told me that they had to separate the engine from the box a bit just to be able to get access to those bolts. at least that's how they justified their huge labour charge!

yes ..... thank you! just for closure on this matter - it did come off eventually. After 3 hours of hammering. There was so much copper in the joint from the hammer face that I had to disassemble the joint to clean it out & check that no damage had been done. Seriously though. Once the shaft was off the car, I had a mole whench grip the shaft & this I held back with my foot whilst hammering the joint - literally as hard as I could - in the opposite direction. Nothing was wrong with the joint - just didn't want to move! ............"just tap it off" !!!!!!! :wink:

noooo have now driven the entire driveshaft out of the side of the gearbox. This is not going well. And the F*ing CV joint will STILL not budge.

aaaaaaaah! coming up for 2 hours hammering. Still no movement. On my audi, you could just put the hub bolt back in and wind it all the way in. This then drove the shaft off the joint. No such luck with this poxy vw :x

you just tap it off Just tap it off???? I've been hammering away at the ba*tard for the last hour with the biggest copper faced mallet money can buy.....! It just won't budge. Any other bright suggestions?? I've gotta get the boot & ball joint done before I can do the rest of the suspension - in the next 3 hours!! HELP!!

hmm ..... car is @113K little end you say? That sounds like a PITA. I'll do a spot of reading & see if I can narrow down the area the noise is coming from. Cheers for help so far!

is it the pedal pivot or the piston pivot on the pedal arm? Mine creaked and had a little movement in it before the clutch disengaged. Turns out the piston rod eyelet had worn into an oval & was sticking on the pedal arm pin. Dismantled this - put a file in there to open it up a bit then smeared the whole joint in copper grease. Not quite 'as new' but quiet now and no more sticking.

you sure? I always thought that 3K was ok for an engine that revved to 7.5 - 8K? keeping the revs too low would just put too much strain on the engine I'd have thought. 3K is always round about my change up point for 1st / 2nd gear

Can anyone give me any likely suspects. Only seems to happen at bang on 3000 - 3300 rpm when cold, and only for the first mile or so. Sounds to me a bit like a bearing race spinning fast and dry. Water pump changed a couple of years ago PAS pump changed a few weeks ago. belts too tight / loose?? anything else ?? (2.0 16v BTW)

yup there was..... not many about though..... and none came to the UK. serious stealth!

the casing on the VW fob doesn't allow much space for and aftermarket circuits in there. Planned it with my toad but there was absolutely no way it was going in there - even with some of the components relocated. Toad PCB was doublesided too! (Thank you to Docklands audi for their loan car & dismantled fob!)

and while we're on about CV joints - Is there any trick to getting the joint off the shaft ??? Or is it just a copper faced 'persuasion tool' job?

or buy em from http://www.design911.com quite reasonable pricing on the whole....! ..... if only my corrado was worth more than a fiver!