mrbeige

I think he did...moved now though :)

I agree, exactly the same on the 256's. Require a little work to get warm, albeit good from cold, awesome when hot!!

Check this out for image resizing. That should help you in your quest....can you tell I'm eager to see pics :lol:

Indeed! Needless to say, I wont be going Pagid again. But it's funny, they get a lot of positive comments (you included) maybe I had a bad set :?

Believe me, I put plenty of heat into the Pagid pads I had and the Ferodo DS 2500's on the 256's (with heat) broke far better than the Pagid pads on the 280's ever did!

Had them on MrsBadcrumble with the 280mm's. Must say I don't rate them. Much preferred the Ferodo 2500 pads I had previous to those on the 256's!

Hi Karl, I'm in Ashford Middlesex 5 mins from Heathrow Airport. Bare with me for the pics i'm not to sure what i'm doing wrong but i tried to attach a few to the members gallery last night with no luck. Check this out, that should help you in your efforts!! :D

:wave: Helllllooooooo Daaaaaaaaaavvvvvvveeeee

How long is a piece of string! Depends totally on spec! Seen some Americans get 500horses...seen a valver on a dyno with 1000horses. Most conversions I've seen put out between 230-350. As soon as you get above 300, it starts to get expensive.

So how do you take the rest of the pipework into consideration? If you have a front monted intercooler as opposed to an inline charge cooler, does the length of the pipework between charger (super or turbo) and throttle body have any effect? Would it be correct in thinking that you have similar issues with filling that pipework up with pressurised air?

If you want to 2.0l bottom end your valver, source an ABF, as it is the best base for the 16v Turbo. The 9a although ok, is a short block and suffers from piston slap and ovalisation of the bore. The long rods of the ABF helps address that problem. The cam's in the ABF are also better...even than the KR cams.

Hmmm... food for thought indeed..... :) Not only that Jim, the ECU it comes with is an MBE engine controller and contains a remap (although generic) for the specific engine you have bought. My mates is running around 220bhp. If you got hold of a TT BAM engine you could see 265bhp quite easily :D The only issue he had was it blowing the boost pipes off, as the jubilee clips he had weren't tight enough :shock: oh and traction too....but that could be his right foot being the problem there!

Ok, I see your point, but getting help with the wiring/electronics wouldn't be a problem, especially with all the helpful natured people on here. As far as a bottm end rebuild is concerned, It doesn't have to be expensive. I priced up a full set of parts for a block rebuild all from VW and it came in at £330 (with a little discount) and that included a new oil pump @ £160. Then you only need to ensure the block is not completely shagged and can be rebored (if required). You don't have to put silly expensive components in there either. The turbo technics kits weren't all that, and they seem to work a beauty! The other option although a little more, but by far the easiest is to go 20v T engine with a QPeng kit. A mate down here bought a low mileage Cupra 180bhp engine complete for 650 squid and the QPeng ECU/Loom/Downpipe kit for £1100 and had it in and running in a weekend! He said it was a piece of piss to fit! Wiring was apparently 3 (or was it 4 ) wires! Now, that isn't that difficult is it?

Aren't the long runners and a turbo/supercharger counter-productive? The turbo/supercharger should improve the torque figures anyway, therefore reducing the need for the long runners?

Fair play that looks pretty damn good. I was going to get my axle/subframe and crossmember powdercoated (expensive) but after seeing that I think POR15 is the way forward. I've already used the engine paint kit and was pretty impressed with that! Which kit did you go for? Was it the POR15 Starter Kit? (P.S. I still have these wiring looms somewhere for ya)

Jim, I whole-heartily understand how you feel, but just think to yourself people like that will come a cropper one day, and either get done by the rozzers :lcop: or they'll knacker their alloys!! Both of which will cost them a LOT of money...and you'll be there laughing thinking to yourself, serves then right for being impatient barstewards! Besides, you could turbo your car for not-a-lot...just need to know how to do it on a budget! Of course it would mean you enlisting CF members help!!!

:pukeright: :pukeright: :pukeright: :pukeright:

Normal for you that, isn't it?? :lol:

Looks pretty good dude! Did you just brush on the paint or did you spray it on? Did you thin it too?

:clap: :clap: :clap: 8) :notworthy: :salute: :cheers: :clap: :clap: :clap: Excellent news dude!! Hope that bonnet came in handy! :D So, you got some piccies of the beast now??

I think I know where you are going with that Si. Both the Renault and Sierra probably had very aggressive boost and if the 1.8t was standard, then probably couldn't tell it was turbo'd as they are a little 'boring' in standard trim! Neil, I think it might be worth you having a go in a G60 turbo and 16v turbo. Both different, but as long as they don't run silly boost, you might find that they are almost as progressive as a charger, if boost control is set up right...

As I said 16v turbo!... :tongue:

Well, Been busy this morning...in the sun! Managed to get new central resonator on and refitted the suitcase and rear silencers, bar the very most rear rubber which has a cable tie in place at the mo. So, with the exhuast on and the battery charged I thought I try and start him with a freshly charged battery...turned the key...started first time! no coughing or spluttering at all. :cheers: Given that it's been sat since the beginning of January, I think that's pretty good!! :clap: Also fixed the central locking....pump was buggered...Mrs Badcrumble has come in handy once again! So, just need to bleed the brakes...hopefully this time without blowing the bottom hose off the brake reservoir with my Easi-bleed kit :mad2: so need to bleed both brakes and clutch now... :roll: Hmmm now I need beer! :drinking:

s2 pistons or stacked gaskets would be the cheaper option (although s2 pistons would be better), that combined with an s2 inlet manifold with one runner cut off and slightly modded to clear the charger. You can still run the digifant management too IIRC.

I think you've answered your own question there. 16v G60 seems the sensible option...of course you could go 16v turbo ;)