mrbeige

Oh yes!! :nuts:

That sounds to me like the captive nut in the chassis leg has come loose.... :pale:

Not sure I've heard of 'goo-gone', but I'll give the lemon a go... :)

Indeed, indeed!! :wink: Right, bit more progress today, rain called off play :( Both rear mk4 calipers are on, just need to get a brake pipe done, for the O/S, next week and job done. Lupo wipers on. Most of the glue for the side strips is off, but some of it is being a right pain in the arse. Anyone suggest what I could use to get it off? Next on the agenda is sorting the exhaust, but that will probably be for next weekend now....or maybe tomorrow.... :norty:

Erm, probably..... :hitler:

Cracked on with some work on Gooney yesterday. Thought I'd remove the side strips as the O/S door one was almost off anyway. All went really well until the last one on the N/S door and it took about 4"s of paint off :sad: hmmm, need a respray now :tongue: Investigated the front screen seal, as it looked a little ropey and there are a couple of tiny rust spots by it. I replaced it with the one from gooney and tried to clear all the gunk out from underneath it. I think that I'll get the screen out for the respray and try and cure all the rusty bits around it. It does look quite bad. I also investigated the excess handbrake movement, and it appears it is suffering from seized rear N/S caliper. So I preceeded to remove the mk4 calipers of the badcrumble and fit them to Gooney. Well, typically enough the unions on the copper part of the brake pipe had seized together, so ended up having to cut the first pipe I saw :( , which was on the O/S. Will see what happens with the N/S today. Whilst I was under there, I noticed the suspension is Koni!! :shock: well pleased about that. Also need to get the exhaust fitted. Removed it and all the hangers from Badcrumble. Everything looks ok, but at the very back just behind the rear bumper there is only a single mounting hole for the Magnex bracket. Will have to see if that fits or not, I suppose.

dude that looks phat!

It was on all but Storms, that had 'Storm' in red lettering on it instead. /EDIT...beaten to it lol

Dude, don't quit now. It just requires some time. You've done soo much already, its the last hurdle.... :(

Ok maybe a tad off with £1600 but not by alot as fitting the supercharger is simple, it just bolts on to the side of your engine and runs off the pullies, if you go rotrex you dont need to tap into the sump etc as they have their own oil supply and Storm sell a ready to go custom fuel pressure regulator that you can fit and use with a charger up to about 8 psi (knocking on 280bhp) that requires no ecu mapping. So not entirely impossible but i suppose you would need some knowledge of how a spanner works, although i started without a clue and now im pretty useful with a spanner and its all down to help from the forum! .. and what about bottom end work? Did you not have to lower your compression to charge your steed? Toad says; The standard VR Engine can take a little boost it would seem. However, the apparent ball ache of getting a supercharger VR running properly should be taken into consideration. How many owners of supercharged VR6s are completely happy with the way the car runs? I'm not having a dig at them, but I want a car that's gonna start and idle and run with factory smoothness, hence my decision to look to shrick, cams and remap. Mind you. I'm not after massive power from the car. Just enough to get me from my house to work on time ;)

I'm not actually MrBeige, but I can't be arsed to log him out and log in myself. Basically, the late VR change feels quite different to the early valver, is there a difference in the actual mechs in the car between the years? Or is it because my selector tower in the gearbox is rooted? I think half my problems are actually the side to side motion, the lever in the VR impinges on the edges of the housing when selecting reverse or 5th. Is there a way to reduce this with OEM parts? Otherwise I was looking at the gruvenparts shortshift kit.

PMSL

I don't matey, but I'm looking into doing another batch!!!!

Cheers dude! No updates at the mo, been otherwise busy. Formulating plans though! :twisted:

You shouldn't need to rebuild the mk4 calipers every two years. I had some on mine for over two years, bought second hand and they were fine.

Can't see a problem with spraying the boot trims black, as long as you use the correct paint that bonds itself to the plastic, it shouldn't flake off. As far as the dash is concerned, it'll take a day. There are two really awkward bolts that go through to the scuttle tray under the wiper motor, that are a bee-atch to get to, but apart from that, dead easy. Are you after a early or late spec black dash? I have a late one for sale in the for sale section here.

Ah, of course! My mate is gonna find out today about prices etc. I'll proly have to buy a newspaper sized piece of flat stainless, but I suppose that could be used for other stuff too. My Dad has a pillar drill, that I might have to lay my hands on too!! :lol: My mate said he has no problem with welding the sttel, so that is a good start. If it turns out well, I might do a couple of three and sell them. Might even pay for the steel...

I was thinking of the diameter of the runner rather than the thickness of the runner wall. My mate is used to working with food grade and surgical grade steel, so I'd imagine that the 321 stainless shouldn't pose him too much of a problem.

Righto, so 304 for the flanges and 321 for the runners. 2.5mm seems sensible enough, can anyone confirm if that is adequate? I sold my bloody manifold didn't I :( Anyone know the thickness of the 9a manifold Hmmm, that could be a good start :) How much do you want for it?

Alright guys! I need some advice. I have a mate who is a bloody good TIG welder, who works for a company making commercial kitchen equipment. He said he'd weld up a manifold, if I mock one up. So rather than spending a schitt load on an exhaust manifold off the shelf, I thought I'd try and put one together (a la cheeswire downpipe stylee) and get him to weld it up. He can get the steel and also get the pipework bent to various radii for me to work with. What I need to tell him is the type of stainless I should use, as he only knows about food grade stainless (which is bloody expensive!), how thick it needs to be, what diameters it needs to be and also how thick the head side flange and the T3 turbo flange need to be. Any advice welcome.

I like you ingenuity! Good skills :afro:

My mate has taken some hi-res pics and a 360 degree vid, but hasn't sent them yet. :(

One of the guys I work with is at the geneva motor show!!!! Well, they didn't lose the funky front end!

Gooney! But then, it wasn't me who named him.....Nikki? Gav?

I remember an featured car in either The Golf mag or PVW that had a 2.2l 16v engine. I believe it was a bored ABF, but it madethe cylinder walls particularly thin and I think the guy had the cylinder walls nitrided(?). IIRC he used forged pistons and rods too, but a standard crank. It used to go through quite a bit of oil though. HTH