jekel

Only things I now of that cause that are MAF, ISV, and less commonly the

That's my theory scuppered then, lol. The plot thickens!

P.S. It's that bit of the pip[e that gurgles on the auxiliary pump run if got any air in system, gurgling because it's an ideal air trap presumably, but sure VW must have reasons for fitting it.

My theory is it's to stop airlocks, it's about the highest part of collant system, is on mine, as expansion tank lowered a bit to accommodate strut brace. I think my VR6, probs. all later ones, mines a 94, may already have the pressure reducer thing. I renewed coolant pipes and kept and cannibalised old ones. The one that goes from engine to heater, and branches of to throttle, is all metal inside at the t-piece, incorporating a chamber, with about a 5mm entrance, like a thimble with a 5mm hole at one end, that's all I can see, not sure what's after that but it's not just a t piece, so maybe that's the pressure reducer? C; 5like a

That was my original question, lol. M

Think we're talking about different pipes. My dad had an Audi UR quattro in the 80's and mother had a Golf, both from new and I'm sure they both got recalled to do a modification to heater hose or hoses good few years later, maybe it's a widespread VW thing. Only problem ever encountered mind, Golf ran faultlessly for 15 years or so, until sold, and the quattro my dad finally parted with after bout 15 years again and was pretty much in condition it was in showroom, never resprayed, resto'd or any work needed other than servicing, and a rear silencer, wish he'd never parted with it. When they came out probably the best car in the world bar none, and prob. still the best built.

Have a look at the post next to this, the one way valve in the coolant hose that goes to throttle housing on mine seized and caused expansion tank to back up and overfill, worth a look for how cheap and easy a fix it is. Got a brand new Suzuki wife drives mainly, 5000 miles on it now, which was horrified to see that white gunk on inside of oil filler cap. My mechanic assures me normal for mileage it's doing. Never seen on any of my cars, VR6, Capri V6's, even old UR quattros. Old VR6 engine had 140 000, new one now bout 5000 and never any hint of gunk, that would worry me a bit.

I wouldn't buy any cheap MAF can only say the ones from Eurocarparts working fine, so far. Have a look see if got sale on, google "eurocarparts offer code" always some discount available. MFA reading is oil temp innit, not same as water temp but give you idea on ohms. When disconnected will default to 70 degrees, so fact changed little doesn't mean working OK, just means recording a temp., see what new ones like. MAF or ISV probs still favourites.

The yellow one works the gauges, no effect on running, it's the blue one, 2 pin, middle of three that is the ECU reads, worth a change, easy enough, can do without draining coolant if your nifty. If you look on here can check readings on 2 pins with ohm guage and check readings for certain temps. but then got to know temp it's reading, and for price they are I'd just renew. See if anyone local will lend you a MAF and ISV to test. Cheap MAF was on half price at Europarts, and then extra 30% off that or something with code, think bout 90 ish normally, but lot cheaper than Bosch bout 300 think, for 6 months worked perfect, may do fior many years, I've got a Bosch too but they were practically given em away that day, worth it just for a spare.

Having had good look at old one and spare can't see that been the case, there's no spring, or pop off mech. etc., just straight one way valve, ball in sort of little cage affair, takes no pressure to blow one way, closes other way. When mine was seized, expansion tank started to back up and fill too high, and signs leaking out overflow, and yes heard the gurgling, as described, on aux. pump run, though wasn't overheating or anything. Now fixed, running perfect levels. Most of air came out running without cap when cool, after a run, with cap fitted obviously, level dropped inch or so, rest of air out nicely, which tends to suggest it helps the bleeding process, or stops air locks in operation, those pipes are highest part of coolant system of mine (with slightly lowered expansion tank due to strut brace, but probs on standard car too? P.S. old one unseized with blast from jet washer but wasn't dirty or anything, no gunge anywhere in pipe or anywhere else (new engine) so not sure why seized in first place, and therefore used the spare rather than old one.

Hello, as title, my valve seized, had spare, cut out and replaced, in fact old one cleared straight away when off, little plastic ball thing, got bit sticky, but...what's it for? Meant to help prevent air locks or something, can just remove and run straight pipe instead? Spare was'nt new, could seize again I'm thinking. What's whole coolant to throttle housing for, meant to cool intake air at housing or something? Mines got a strut brace and had to lower expansion tank slightly to accommodate, so throttle housing highest point of coolant system, so mine might be more prone to air locking if removed? New engine, water pump etc., not had any air locking probs so far.

I've got a Pipercross filter sitting in garage, only had on for couple of months so in perfect nick, their foam and work pretty well, I changed to BMC Carbon which do prefer for reasons mentioned above but Pipercross was louder, lovely intake roar, been known to frighten people in Tyne Tunnel, and very good filter, I also adapted it to take a second bracket at front, hate filters waggling around at all. Mines got a heat shield too, without heat shield even louder. Was gonna lob it on Ebay, £25 if ya fancy it. The BMC filter really made for a cold air feed, but only way could see of doing efficiently would be to remove a fog light, which don't reallt want to do, anybody sussed anything there. Ditched my carbon canister so there is a big whole there, just where intake sits, but putting a cold air feed through it, just to point down, doesn't seem worthwhile.

Idle is most commonly MAF or ISV, the test readings you got across MAF terminals isn't guarantee is all well. Fact doing when hot would tend to lean towards MAF. MAF and ISV's is always something keep spares for, got any mates local that can come round and swap? Disconnect MAF when doing it, any better, if so - MAF, no worse - probs MAF. I'd clean MAF as matter of course and change blue temp sensor for new VW one, pretty cheap and easy swap, at least check ohms readings. ISV damper box was leaking, is foam inside breaking down, getting stuck in pipes, in ISV? Can reroute pipes run without damper, bit noisier, if foam breaking down, I'd pull the lot out, or get new damper, hard to get and a right rip off for what they are. Was at Europarts while back and were selling MAF's for 30 quid or so in sale, seemed rude not to buy one keep as spare, put on car bout year ago, not a Bosch, had on car for bout 6 months worked perfect, got new Bosch and spare Bosch, swapped back to Bosch - exactly same so still working perfect after 6 months, and sat in garage as perfect spare, probs won't last 20 years but for price, worth the buy.

I'd deffo change both balljoints, track rod ends, and droplinks aswell as the lower UJ, all fairly easy jobs, and both wheel bearings (that'll need a garage with a very large press and heat, don't try yourself) and see where you are probs be OK. Why was only one balljoint replaced, the "new one" will be past it's best now, god knows what old ones like, the balljoints don't show up wear easily, on MOT test etc. but you'll notice when change. Fact it past MOT means it's not imminently going to fail, not that it wouldn't benefit from changing.

Slightly off the subject what's the advantages of upgrading to OBD2 and what's it involve? My VR6 really needs remapped to suit few mods and new bigger injectors and think OBD1 is putting most off. P.S. got 2 ECU's standard and mapped, but was mapped to old engine, fairly standard, now rebuilt and upgraded. If do go OBD2 I'll have spare, or poss. 2.

Decent leads are vital on a VR6 (if it's a VR6, don't think you said). Only ones that won't give problems are Dubpower 10mm, Magnecor and VW/Bremi. Dubpower 10 mm's are best, Magnecor and Vw/Bremi much of a muchness. 10mm's won't fit in holders, mines got separate 10mm holders, 8mm Bremi's will but might want to trim holder a touch as detailed above.

Hello, any left? If so PM me please with details and can Paypal you. Sounds like every Corrado owner in England has a snapped cable, lol. Thanks,

I had a look at the pump yesterday, before seeing your message, and that's exactly what had happened mate, reattached it, it's like one of those position and twist 30 degree things. It would explain why it's feeling hesitant after leaving work, turning right at two big roundabouts then putting foot down on motorway slip road, felt like fuel starvation. Has'nt fixed gauge which expected it to, but think sender is now OK, it's reading 127 ohms and looks bout 1/3 to half full which sounds bout right from info above. Probs. the actual gauge, but pump certainly wanted re-attaching, and hopefully will pull down sliproad tonight in more spirited fashion

Hello, fuel gauge has started has started playing up, reading low all time now I'd say, think there's bout half a tank at least in there, nearly reading empty. Started when accelerating shoots right down, will always a bit, but not that much. Last night gave it a spirited boot of acceleration exiting a petrol st5ation onto motorway jerked it back into life read 3/4 full for bout half an hour then reverted to empty. Common probs.? Sender, gauge, relay connections? Had look at fuel pump before looked very new, nearly everything is on car so chances is. Where's the earth connection for sender, symptons could be of a dodgy earth It's a VR6, 94 Cheers

Just done mine and old ones knocked out and new ones in pretty easily but do need to be drifted in. Avoid doing the front ones yourself mate, thought would be well in, took to my mechanic for the job and told me took heat and over 20 tonnes of pressure with a massive press to get old ones out, said sounded like a bomb going off when eventually released.

I've not done it, mine looked new on car when got it, but I'm sure you could just make up a copper one with a pipe making kit, presume that coil thing is there for a purpose, to avoid air locks probably. I'm in South Shields, got a brand new pipe making kit never used yet your welcome to borrow if needbe. When done I took someone's advice and took the slave cylinder out, held above height of master and bled perfect straight away with a pressure bleeder.

I'm in South Shields, Tyne and Wear, canny hike, but if your up this way got a couple of known good spare MAF's ya welcome to call in and try for test, also coilpacks, TPS, FPS etc., most normal stuff keep spares. Surprised your using standard injectors on a turbo, I've got EV6 injectors on non turbo VR6 but running with 3 bar FPS rather than 4, which seems to suit. My mates got a turbo and injectors first thing changed. Also got old injectors which are known good, had them on until recently and cleaned and refurbed few years ago should standard injectors be bad.

Yep, it worked, did it on weekend.