Roger Blassberg

I have this facility on my Jaguar; it takes a bit of getting used to as you have to focus beyond the very fine wires implanted in the glass. But once you have got used to it, the advantage would be worthwhile on misty damp days, especially if you haven't got aircon. It clears the inside of the screen very quickly and deals with frost as well. It will draw quite a lot of current, probably at the same time as lights, blower and rear screen demister, so at least a 90A alternator would be advisable, but you would only need it switched on for fairly short periods. Best wishes RB

Are the black rubber strip mouldings for the doors still available? Best wishes RB

If it's still for sale, please pm me with a price. I can collect. Best wishes RB

I have now found one. For information, Martin on 07518 667474 has a garge or two full of parts from Corrados he has broken. He lives in Buckingham.; Best wishes RB

Offside front wing is beginning to look very tatty especially around the side indicator repeater and the wheel arch. I need a very good 2nd hand one (colour immaterial, but must be rust free) or would consider a new one. Are they still available through VAG or VW Heritage does anyone know? Thanks RB

OOOOps Thanks RB

Offside front wing is beginning to look very tatty especially around the side indicator repeater and the wheel arch. I need a very good 2nd hand one (colour immaterial, but must be rust free) or would consider a new one. Are they still available through VAG or VW Heritage does anyone know? Thanks RB

Check that the wiper mechanism assembly in the scuttle area is firmly bolted down and that all the rivetted joints are secure. There is a rubber grommet behind one of the bolts near to the motor itself; if that perishes, the whole mechanism becomes loose and the wiper blades are not pushed firmly enough onto the screen; it can very easily be replaced. When I sorted out my wipers, I removed the entire mechanism from the car by taking off the wipers and arms, spindle nuts and seals and the bolt near the motor. The whole thing then can be jiggled out. I replaced a loose rivetted joint with a nut and bolt and put it all back. There was absolutely no problem after that. I put on Lupo arms and blades for good measure. Best wishes RB

I suggest that you take them to Max Powder in Hemel Hempstead. He repairs and refurbs alloys for a very reasonable price. 01442 232336 Best wishes RB

Please count me in too. Thanks RB

Definitely wouldn't drive it; grease could get onto the brake disc and then you could be in big trouble. This could be caused by an antiroll bar drop link touching the cv boot, or just long tem rubber degradation. Best wishes RB

It's about converting heat energy into kinetic energy and vice versa. A small engine with low gearing will accelerate a car at the same rate as a big engine with high gearing, but not for long because it can't convert heat energy into kinetic energy at a sufficient rate. A small brake with low heat capacity will retard a car at the same rate as a big brake, but not for long because it can't get rid of heat energy and will overheat until either the pad/disc contact surface loses its friction characteristics or the brake fluid boils. Big brakes are needed for consistent operation; small brakes will work for a very short period but will overheat and fade, and will wear out much more quickly as the contact surfaces are smaller. Best wishes RB

I think it has something to do with radio interference suppression - probably not so serious with our roof mounted aerials and FM or DAB radios, but years ago AM radios and wing-mounted aerials were notoriousl for engine related interference. Best wishes RB

Could be escaping as steam, from almost anywhere but check pressure cap first Or the head gasket may be letting water into the cylinders or the oil system. If you have wet carpets in the front, then it's the heater matrix Best wishes RB

My instinct was to run the cables to relays mounted on the spare locations on top of the relay plate. But there is the counter-arguement to that which is to keep the cable runs as short as possible to minimise voltage drop. I have mine in the engine compartment as high as possible, in fact cable tied to an aircon hose, nice and cool. Best wishes RB

Thanks, I'll have another look......... RB

I went armed with the Bentley manual, looking for fuse/control module marked as No 18 in the diagram. But to no avail. All I managed to do was discover a disgracefully unprofessional aftermarket alarm/immobiliser installation, wrapped in plastic insulation tape and with crimped connections which I have now tidied up. But still no seat motor function. Hasan suggests that there are some relays behind the passenger side glovebox so I'll look in there, but it has the dealer-fitted aircon and I'm preparing for more untidyness. Could the fuse be under the seat on the Recaros? It's not desperate as I am the only one who drives it but I am keen to sort it out. Best wishes RB

Hasan, I would think that, if the injector(s) are at fault, then the problem would exist throughout the rev range. I am confident that my MAF is good, so we could swap it to yours to either prove or exclude that. Best wishes RB

I have electric Recaro seats; neither of them is working all of a sudden (either up/down or recline) so I assume that the problem lies with a fuse or a relay supplying power to all functions. Anyone know which fuse or relay controls the circuit and where it is located? Thanks RB

Seen in Hatfield Road St Albans at 4pm on Sunday 8th July, just before the Olympic Torch relay, Classic Green VR6 reg. M80 *R* Best Wishes RB

Spark plugs? Best wishes RB

Something wrong if you got covered in oil working on the brakes.............. Best wishes RB

Have you and Hasan absolutely ruled out any problems with the MAF ? I work close to you and could come round with mine to do a quick swap over of the MAF. Let me know. Best wishes RB

Hasan, I suggest that you disconnect the servo vacuum pipe at the inlet manifold end (and block the manifold connection, otherwise you will have a massive airleak and the engine won't run !!) then drive it - slowly - down your quiet road and see if it makes any difference to the brakes. If it does NOT then you clearly have a servo problem. I would imagine that the diaphragm could have developed a leak in which case it won't be helping the pedal pressure, or maybe there is a blocked airway somewhere internally. Alternatively there may be a blockage in the vacuum pipe itself; disconnect it at both ends and blow through it to check. The rigid plastic pipe that runs over the coilpack area is connected to the inlet manifold with a piece of rubber hose (which on mine looks a bit second-hand these days!) Perhaps that has collapsed internally. Best wishes Roger

The front sensors come without a cable attached and are very widely available - look on ebay. The rears have the cables attached and are a bit more expensive, but again are available fronm many sources. Taking the bulb out won't get you through the MOT - they check that the light comes on and then goes off and stays off. Best wishes RB